Really need expert advice on router size and type???

[Jim Dwight]

Lucy,

I own 5 routers and have used others. I don't think you will notice any big difference between the DW621 and the ones you have. There are little things you would like better about one versus the other but the motor size is about the same, both have at least decent collets and both have decent ways to adjust depth. That is what a router does. I've never used a Festool anything and I may never but the Domino interests me. If I was to drink the green cool aid, it wouldn't start with a router. There are lots of pretty good ones that cost a whole lot less than a Festool.

But if you are willing to change bits, you can do your roughing cuts with a router bit that isn't real sharp. At most you make an additional pass and smaller bites. Then use a really sharp and clean one for the final pass. That would help on bits. I hate throwing them out too. Routers all dull bits at about the same rate.

You don't need spiral upcut bits for this. But if you use regular straight bits, you want one with a bottom cutter. It will make holes much better. At least for the roughing cut you need to be able to make a hole. A single flute bit takes half as many cuts and dulls twice as fast as a two flute bit. I have some but I am no fan of them.

A 1/2 shank will greatly minimize any slipping in the collet but I don't remember you mentioning that as an issue. A whiteside wouldn't break at the transition between the 1/2 shank and the 1/4 cutter but I've had cheaper brands break there. A 1/2 diameter straight bit is more robust and could fit with a plan to go to a 15A router but I don't see why that would fit your situation.

I think you just need a new template guide and maybe some straight bits with bottom cutters. I like CMT bits, I hear Freud are good, and I like Whiteside. I am not sure if I would trust them for a 1/2 shank necked to a 1/4 cutter but I use a lot of MLCS bits. A 1/4 shank 1/4 cutter bit would be fine from MLCS. I think you said you need to keep the cutter the same size to keep from a major project on your templates and I see no reason to embark on that project.

But two routers is not overkill in my book. I like the interchangability of having two PC 690s. I have four bases for them and like just moving motors. But for your situation, you could have a roughing setup and a finish setup if you had two routers. I also have a bigger and a smaller router and a couple junk routers.

[Mel Fulks]

[QUOTE=Jim Dwight;2443055]Lucy,

"A single flute bit takes half as many cuts and dulls twice as fast as a two flute bit. I have some but I am no fan of them"
Since she is concerned with efficient speed ,does not want to ruin a router, has no interest in counting cuts, and is open to getting them re sharpened ....and you don't like the ones you have...why not send them to her?

[Mike Cutler]

well that little thing is genius. I've bookmarked to order later because I have noticed my bit sometimes doesn't look like it's in the center of the guide. Does the straight cutter bit have bottom cutters for plunging or are those strictly for cutting the edges of stuff? I've only used the spiral upcut.

Straight bits come in three geometries that I am familiar with. There is a pattern straight bit that has no cutters on the bottom. There is one that has two cutters that would overlap, so that you could plunge, and I've seen some that have two cutters on the bottom that don't overlap for clearing waste, but not plunging.
All are available with bearings on top, shank end, to follow templates, and even a bearing on the bottom of the bit that has no bottom cutters.
Technically speaking your spirals are straight bits, whenever up, or down. The bit that Mel referred to would also be a single flute straight bit. I haven't used one of those, but based on Mel's input, I'm going to give them a go. Routing plywood is always a pain in the neck, and if that bit makes it easier, I'm all for it.
Straight bits are the workhorses. They may not seem to do much, but what they do is important. If you're going to "splurge" on a router bit, and go top shelf. Spend it on straight cutters.

[Lucy Langlois]

Lucy,

I own 5 routers and have used others. I don't think you will notice any big difference between the DW621 and the ones you have. There are little things you would like better about one versus the other but the motor size is about the same, both have at least decent collets and both have decent ways to adjust depth. That is what a router does. I've never used a Festool anything and I may never but the Domino interests me. If I was to drink the green cool aid, it wouldn't start with a router. There are lots of pretty good ones that cost a whole lot less than a Festool.

But if you are willing to change bits, you can do your roughing cuts with a router bit that isn't real sharp. At most you make an additional pass and smaller bites. Then use a really sharp and clean one for the final pass. That would help on bits. I hate throwing them out too. Routers all dull bits at about the same rate.

You don't need spiral upcut bits for this. But if you use regular straight bits, you want one with a bottom cutter. It will make holes much better. At least for the roughing cut you need to be able to make a hole. A single flute bit takes half as many cuts and dulls twice as fast as a two flute bit. I have some but I am no fan of them.

A 1/2 shank will greatly minimize any slipping in the collet but I don't remember you mentioning that as an issue. A whiteside wouldn't break at the transition between the 1/2 shank and the 1/4 cutter but I've had cheaper brands break there. A 1/2 diameter straight bit is more robust and could fit with a plan to go to a 15A router but I don't see why that would fit your situation.

I think you just need a new template guide and maybe some straight bits with bottom cutters. I like CMT bits, I hear Freud are good, and I like Whiteside. I am not sure if I would trust them for a 1/2 shank necked to a 1/4 cutter but I use a lot of MLCS bits. A 1/4 shank 1/4 cutter bit would be fine from MLCS. I think you said you need to keep the cutter the same size to keep from a major project on your templates and I see no reason to embark on that project.

But two routers is not overkill in my book. I like the interchangability of having two PC 690s. I have four bases for them and like just moving motors. But for your situation, you could have a roughing setup and a finish setup if you had two routers. I also have a bigger and a smaller router and a couple junk routers.

Yes, I love, love your idea of the larger template guide for the rough cut... in several passes (even trying to use some of my not so sharp bits that I haven't sent to be sharpened)... and finish up as I normally do and that is what my plan is. You are right, the thought of re-doing all those templates in this Florida heat does not appeal at all.
I originally chose the spiral upcut because of how I was cutting straight down into the wood and had researched and found that that type of bit helps clear the material out of the way so that's what I chose, but if the straight bit w/bottom cutter will work, I'm willing to order one and check it out.

At this point, I have to go ahead and order another router while the PC is being repaired and then I'll just have 2 which is fine. I don't have a problem spending, within reason, to get a quality tool since this is for my business and I've learned that there is no comparison when using the right tools for a specific job.
Years ago when I was cutting out these shapes with a jigsaw, I thought I was doing ok... then I discovered the rotozip and thought wow, this is fantastic, especially for making the curved cuts, but since I found the router method, omgosh, there is no going back, it's like night and day! It is SO much easier and efficient and my wood shapes just look more professional.

I just need to get these few tweaks down to make it more efficient. I am so appreciative of all the input, expertise and experience here, it's wonderful. I would have never come up with some of the solutions you guys have given me and I am grateful!

I may try the DW621 since it has a little more HP or just order another PC and use this method and hopefully that will be the ticket. Wrapping up for the day and plan to look online and order tonight

[Kent A Bathurst]

I originally chose the spiral upcut because of how I was cutting straight down into the wood and had researched and found that that type of bit helps clear the material out of the way so that's what I chose..............

Not a bad choice at all.

..........I've learned that there is no comparison when using the right tools for a specific job............

Many people go a lifetime without reaching this epiphany. Good for you.

I am so appreciative of all the input, expertise and experience here, it's wonderful. I would have never come up with some of the solutions you guys have given me and I am grateful!

Always happy to help - - a knowledgeable, reasonable, bunch of folks.

Except me, Myk and Harold, of course..........