Really need expert advice on router size and type???

[Lucy Langlois]

Hi, I searched the forums but the posts I found were older and wanted to see if more current recommendations are out there. Quick background on my needs... I'm an artist and only use a router for one thing, cutting out large (up to 4' x 4'), sometimes intricate, wood shapes out of 1/2" hardwood sanded plywood from Lowes. I use my own MDF templates, a template guide and whiteside spiral upcut bits. I change bits about every 5 pattern shapes. I use it about 2 or 3 times a month, cutting 4 or 5 shapes at a time, so not excessive in my opinion.

I ordered the PC 1 3/4 hp router in January. In March, it had burning smell and weird noise, took it in, they replaced almost everything, took about 6weeks that I was without it. I got it back and it was working fine until the other day and now doing it again and having to send it back in. I don't know if I got a lemon or if I'm not using the right size tool for what I need. Do I need more hp? I didn't want to go to one of the huge routers that only take 1/2" bits since I already have my template guide and all that for my 1/4" bits

Oh and I use a 10gauge extension cord with it.

So what should I order? need one ASAP
Thank you!
Lucy

[Jeff Ramsey]

Hi, I searched the forums but the posts I found were older and wanted to see if more current recommendations are out there. Quick background on my needs... I'm an artist and only use a router for one thing, cutting out large (up to 4' x 4'), sometimes intricate, wood shapes out of 1/2" hardwood sanded plywood from Lowes. I use my own MDF templates, a template guide and whiteside spiral upcut bits. I change bits about every 5 pattern shapes. I use it about 2 or 3 times a month, cutting 4 or 5 shapes at a time, so not excessive in my opinion.

I ordered the PC 1 3/4 hp router in January. In March, it had burning smell and weird noise, took it in, they replaced almost everything, took about 6weeks that I was without it. I got it back and it was working fine until the other day and now doing it again and having to send it back in. I don't know if I got a lemon or if I'm not using the right size tool for what I need. Do I need more hp? I didn't want to go to one of the huge routers that only take 1/2" bits since I already have my template guide and all that for my 1/4" bits

Oh and I use a 10gauge extension cord with it.

So what should I order? need one ASAP
Thank you!
Lucy

You take a full half inch swipe with your router, or you lower it with several passes? If the former, that seems excessive to me; particularly with your router HP and 1/4" bits. If I take a 1/2" swipe with my PC 1 3/4 HP router, it'll complain and I can watch the brushes arc across the commutator. If you want to hog through 1/2" plywood with one pass, you might consider at least upping the HP to something like a 7518 (and I'd also use 1/2" bits):

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...Idea-Dumb-Idea

[Larry Frank]

I agree with Jeff about continuous use. If you are taking a deep cut and running a long time, that could burn up a router. I would go to a 2-1/4 hp router and looking at letting it cool down. Also make certain to blow it out once in awhile. Of course the higher hp will be heavier.

Maybe there are some folks in the CNC forum who have experience on which routers can run for long times

[pat warner]

You need a plunger. A plunger will go through anything, given modest waste/stage-cut.
A DW 621 or Bosch 1166, 2HP is enough to get through aluminum!

[Lucy Langlois]

I do have a plunger base... I don't know if I understand how that makes a difference?

[William C Rogers]

Not an expert, but think you need more hp (2 1/4). I have three brands, Freud, Bosch, and Hitachi all 2 1/4hp. I have used the Bosch extensively and never a problem. Freud is nice, but slightly larger. The Hitachi is nice and compact, however I only use it for dovetails and not real sure of the reliability. I do like the Hitachi as it is the quietest and most compact. It also uses the PC guides in its base. You can get the Hitachi for around a $120, but I don't have a lot of time on this router.

[Jeff Ramsey]

I do have a plunger base... I don't know if I understand how that makes a difference?

It's about the HP, not the base. If you've a template you're running a bearing along, a plunger could help with taking the cut in stages, and dropping the bit down a little at a time (but you can do the same thing with a fixed base). But if you had a larger router, you could probably take the cut in one pass with a fixed base and wouldn't need a plunger.

[Lucy Langlois]

yes, I just use the fixed base. I tried going in two passes a few times and every time I tried it leaves a bump in the middle of the cut wood shape that I then have to sand off, I'm not sure why it does it? Even with fresh bit.

[Mike Cutler]

I do have a plunger base... I don't know if I understand how that makes a difference?

Lucy

The plunge allows you to start any where on the template form to begin the cut. Not necessarily starting at an edge. The plunge mechanism would be set for progressively deeper plunge cuts. Ultimately it gives you more control. It may take 3 or more complete passes to router the entire template form.
You really need a 1/2" shanked bit. This is too much for a 1/4" shank bit. If you have to stick with the 1/4" bit, you will need to take more passes at progressively deeper depths. You may find that two routers are what you need. A 1/2" to router the larger areas and 1/4" to router the more delicate, or finer areas of the form.
Spiral up or down bits are not always the best bits for bottom cleaning depending on their physical design. You may consider investing in some quality bits with bottom cutters to more efficiently cut and clear waste as the router moves along.

If you're not using a vacuum in conjunction with your router, you, and the router, are doing a lot of extra work. The debris really needs to be cleared as you router the form. On large forms I've used both vacuums and, or, large fans, to blow out the debris as I work.

The DW621 Pat recommended is a great router. It's very smooth, powerful and not overly large. It is also widely available.

BTW
Pat Warner is the "expert". He literally writes the "How To" books on using a router.

[Jeff Ramsey]

yes, I just use the fixed base. I tried going in two passes a few times and every time I tried it leaves a bump in the middle of the cut wood shape that I then have to sand off, I'm not sure why it does it? Even with fresh bit.

Thats the risk of multiple passes. A slight cant, or a shaft that isn't perfect or a collet that isn't perfect and you get a ridge which is why it would be better to up your HP and take it with one pass. If you're going to cut a lot of these, it might also be worth redoing your template to account for 1/2" bits. If I start cutting dovetails with my 1 3/4 HP PC, it complains mightily and I then know I should be using a larger HP router.

[Lucy Langlois]

Thats the risk of multiple passes. A slight cant, or a shaft that isn't perfect or a collet that isn't perfect and you get a ridge which is why it would be better to up your HP and take it with one pass. If you're going to cut a lot of these, it might also be worth redoing your template to account for 1/2" bits. If I start cutting dovetails with my 1 3/4 HP PC, it complains mightily and I then know I should be using a larger HP router.

ok, that makes sense, I wondered why it did that!

[Lucy Langlois]

Ugh, that's not what I want to hear and had a feeling that's the advice I was going to get... about the 1/2" shank. No, I don't use a vacuum, I set up outside. The idea of 2 routers, 1/4" for finer details makes sense.
I'm just overwhelmed at the price of the 1/2" bits I've looked at

[Lucy Langlois]

Just to show y'all an example of what I'm cutting out. I'm just a novice user on routers. I used to use a rotozip saw to cut them out and then discovered the router/template method. Do any of you think with a higher HP router, I could get away with sticking with the 1/4" shank bits?

Also, is there some kind of router that has an easier method to loosen the collet to change the bits other than the wrench deal? Hate to play the girl card, but, yeah, it takes me a long time sometimes to loosen the collet because I don't have the hand/arm strength
mermaid large vertical cutout 4ft x 41 in wide.jpg

[Jeff Ramsey]

There are two issues with the PC stock wrenches. First, there is no offset for the bottom wrench (not on mine, anyway) and they're awkward to keep aligned. Second, you're at a straight from the point of force, rather than an angle with a crowfoot wrench, and get whatever torque you generate with force at the end. You can get more torque with a crowfoot. Try this. Using the stock wrenches, line up the bottom wrench and offset the top wrench the correct direction depending on whether you're tightening or loosening. You want the top wrench and bottom wrench slightly offset so they fit in one hand. Apply the force by squeezing one hand together against both wrenches; don't use two hands. This "may" apply enough force (and thus torque) without risk of scraping your knuckles if one of the wrenches comes loose (as is common using the two-hand method). If you cannot consistently generate enough torque this way, consider a crowfoot wrench. Also, there are after-market offset wrenches (typically bottom) to deal with the awkwardness of using two straight wrenches at two different points.

[glenn bradley]

All this is JMHO and not intended to start any brand-loyalty wars ;-)

Routers are pretty personal items but, I'll risk giving my opinion based on those I've kept and those I've sent packing. Power to weight ratio for your task puts you in the 2-1/4HP area. Variable speed can help you find a sweet spot for the complexity of the template being followed. Do not use the router as a jigsaw to make the entire cut; cut close to the line with a jigsaw and then trim to the template with the router.

With the exception of the 621 and 625 I would ignore DeWalt routers. All Porter Cable products are suspect at this point in history. Bosch is hanging in there but their models can be "gadgety" with special features you may not want or need but, still have to pay for. I haven't bought a Milwaukee in years and so don't know their current quality. I have a half a dozen Milwaukees in all power ranges and they do nothing but work. The same can be said of older Porter Cable routers; they just keep going.

To your statement about wrenches, use two wrenches. If your router doesn't use two wrenches I'd consider another. I do bit changes too often to be annoyed with a poor collet system. With two wrenches you neither require great strength to tighten or loosen the collet. If you have a router that accepts it, collets that use an allen wrench are available for $60 or so.