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Thread: Home- made bora care & timbor

  1. Hello folks,
    I have followed the instructions to make the product that uses Boric Acid , Borax, And propylene glycol.
    The glycol was a bit syrupy....and I didn't expect that. the resultant product was also syrupy....But that is the way it is.
    i added water (50%) as suggested and sprayed it on a beam that needed some dry rot control. I drilled holes in the beam and squirted the liquid in.
    I waited for the stuff to dry and now I need to fill the holes with sawdust mixed with carpenter's glue. Then I am ready to paint when that is dried and sanded level.
    But I have noticed the termite/borer/ wood rot liquid has dried a clear film over the previously painted beam and is shiny.
    I wonder if painting over it will be a problem down the road. Should a person beware of anything? Any experience with this from any users? Allan Speers???
    thanks just send me an email when you have time...I don't always get around to checking all the forums I am registered with.
    my email is
    Last edited by raelph houghton; 01-10-2017 at 6:27 AM. Reason: clarification

  2. Since I am online this morning, I thought I would give an update one year on. So far the repair job has been positive. Paint over shiny area has held. Filler in the holes has shown no outward problems. Wouldn't know anything had every been wrong with the timber. But I must admit it was quite a bit of work making the product, drillng holes, application, putting in the filler, sanding the excess , and priming painting....but one would have heaps of other work to do to try and make it right if one had tried replacing the timber....and all the possible unexpected problems which might arise.
    So pretty happy with the product made and project finished. Propylene glycol was pretty expensive where I purchased it , but prices are getting better.... and much cheaper than buying Boracare from USA and having to pay for shipping of that product. Borax and Boric acid added expenses that are much higher here in Australia (no 20 Mule Team here)...still cheaper than buying from USA (haven't seen Boracare available in Australia)
    .....All in all a good experience.
    Last edited by raelph houghton; 01-24-2018 at 2:13 PM.

  3. #18
    Does anyone have an opinion on using Zerex Original Green Antifreeze for the glycol in order to reduce environmental impact. I give my shavings to a friend for composting.

  4. I am interested in using regular antifreeze as it is a good bit cheaper and will not require shipping. Does anyone know what percent ethylene glycol it is and if any of the other ingredients are typically going to cause any health risk after fully dried. I added a little antifreeze to my timbor mixture and the boards still seem a little damp 4 days later. I do not see the typical powder reside either. As long as they eventually dry I would think drying slowly would allow for better penetration. Also what about using used antifreeze from a shop. my mechanic said he is glad to supply me. Sure it will be half and Half, but if I heat it and then add the timbor/solubor would it really be such a problem. I mixed a little antifreeze with my timbor that was made with hot tapwater and it seemed to stay mixed together just fine. I did not see any powder settling out even days later


  5. #20
    Talked to my local COOP, and they could get solubor. Ordered a 50 lb bag, and they put it in my truck a while back. Was told to put a pound in a gallon of water, and either roll or spray it on both faces and all edges, ends. The ethylene glycol is to slow the drying to make it sink in a bit better, but not necessary. Also was told to boil the water to make the powder stay suspended.

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