New Table Saw - Assembly Questions

[Tom Burgess]

I purchased a Delta Unisaw shop saw about eight years ago (tempis fugit) and am only now setting it up. I intend to use this thread to seek advice as I assemble the saw. I don't have the Owner's Manual immediately at hand; hoping to find it among the boxed parts.

Most of the saw has been 'resting' in original boxes out in the garage, but I kept the table and wings in a spare bedroom closet out of harm's way. Recently I purchased a can of Johnson's Paste Wax for protecting the top (per advice gleaned here) and having inspected the three steel table pieces, there are two issues with the main/center segment:

1. There's a round rust spot about 5/16" diameter on the front edge, not on the table surface, but on the side.

Q1. I'd appreciate any suggestion for how to halt the oxidation and clean off the existing rust spot as much as possible


2. SEE PICTURE. There's an area of amber/brown spanning almost half the top surface of the main/center table segment. I think (hope) it's only the remnants of a protective coating. It appears very "brown and ominous" in the photo, but is actually more amber and translucent.

Q2. Is it a protective coating?

Q3. How do I remove it?

I intend to coat shiny surfaces with Johnson's Paste Wax immediately after cleaning the tops, so I want to clean them in a way that will not conflict with the wax application.

Q4. As I understand it, application of Johnson's Paste wax is a simple matter of:

1) wipe the wax on
2) wipe off excess wax
3) buff
Is that all there is to it?

Thanks

protective_coating.jpg

[Jeff Ramsey]

1. Steel wool (fine grade, like #0000), then wax it.
2/3. Before you steel wool the top, clean it thoroughly with kerosene. That'll take off the original "cosmoline" that was put on to prevent rust.
4. Yes, and there was a recent thread on waxing cast iron. Don't let the wax dry completely before you remove it.

Question 1: How could you possibly let a Unisaw sit for eight years without using it, or even setting it up? Isn't that almost sacrilegious?

[Tom Burgess]

2/3. Before you steel wool the top, clean it thoroughly with kerosene. That'll take off the original "cosmoline" that was put on to prevent rust.

Exactly. I didn't use the term cosmoline because I know it as a firearms-related term and figured folks here might not be familiar with it.

I don't have kerosene at hand. I have mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, gasoline and Simple Green citrus-based cleaner. Any thoughts? I'm being extra cautious about this due to the bare steel aspect, and because I expect to use this saw for the rest of my days.

4. Yes, and there was a recent thread on waxing cast iron. Don't let the wax dry completely before you remove it.

I'm sure that tip will come in handy. Thanks.

Question 1: How could you possibly let a Unisaw sit for eight years without using it, or even setting it up? Isn't that almost sacrilegious?

Ha! I know! It's a long story. In a nutshell, I made a pact with myself not to use the new saw until I sold my first table saw, in use for 30 years: a flex-drive Craftsman with cast iron table and extensions (1-1/16 HP motor, too). It served me amazingly well until the flex-shaft gave up last winter. SEARS is a RIPOFF! They charge $160 for the replacement shaft, and that convinced me to sell my ol' partner to a good home at a very low price - to offset the new owner's high cost for the replacement shaft (sniff).

[glenn bradley]

In sunny southern California I apply the wax with a paper towel or old piece of t-shirt, let is stand for about 10 minutes or until it just starts to fog over and then wipe off. I follow this with a buffing and the surfaces end up slicker than all get-out.

I think a lot of the wax confusion comes from folks who didn't live during the years when we waxed cars with wax ;-) There is a bit of a paradox when using it; if you don't wait long enough, you just wipe the wax right back off . . . if you wait too long it is harder to get off. The gray area is pretty wide but, too soon is just as bad as too late. In my temperature zone the acceptable area for wipe-off is somewhere around 10 to 30 minutes.

[Jeff Ramsey]

Mineral spirits should work, as well.

[Tom Burgess]

There is a bit of a paradox when using it; if you don't wait long enough, you just wipe the wax right back off . . . if you wait too long it is harder to get off. The gray area is pretty wide but, too soon is just as bad as too late.

Thanks, Glenn. The excerpt quoted above sounds a lot like Life in general, don't it? heh heh

Where I live, it's been raining almost non-stop for the past two months (?) and on July 8 our high temp is expected to be only about 74 F. Ker-A-zee weather this year. Typically, we'd be suffering with upper 90s and considerable humidity (no complaints from me).

I'll split the difference and figure on 20 minutes before buffing, and will watch carefully for the fogging.


And hey(!), that suitcase in your photo is a still from a Twilight Zone episode set in a bus station, yes?

[Tom Burgess]

Mineral spirits should work, as well.

Thanks, Jeff. I'll try mineral spirits first.

[Charles Wiggins]

1. Steel wool (fine grade, like #0000), then wax it.
2/3. Before you steel wool the top, clean it thoroughly with kerosene. That'll take off the original "cosmoline" that was put on to prevent rust.
4. Yes, and there was a recent thread on waxing cast iron. Don't let the wax dry completely before you remove it.

Question 1: How could you possibly let a Unisaw sit for eight years without using it, or even setting it up? Isn't that almost sacrilegious?

My responses would be more or less the same, except I use WD-40 and a Scotchbrite pad instead of kerosene and steel wool. Both do the same things. The steel wool is probably a bit better at removing the rust, but I always have Scotchbrite pads on hand.
The other thing I would do is clean the kerosene/WD-40 residue off with mineral spirits before waxing.

You want a thin even coat of the paste wax. Let it get cloudy before you wipe off. If the metal is cool to the touch this should not take long. Wiping off the excess is one operation, Buffing is another. At least two coats, but no more than three. Buff it well by hand - no power buffers. Miter slots are the toughest since you can only wipe in two directions. A cloth around a scrap of wood can help get in the corners, or into the profile if your slots are designed to lock the miter gauge in. You'll get a nice slick rust inhibiting surface.

Depending on the amount of use, and atmospheric conditions in your shop you should probably re-wax every four to six months. If you were a daily user it might be prudent to do it more often, but given that your saw has been sitting around for eight years, I am guessing your a more casual user. Even if your shop is really dry and you hardly ever use the saw you should probably do it at least once a year.

[Scott Hearn]

So let me get this straight. You have a brand spanking new Delta Unisaw? Still in the box? *faint*

Mine looks like it's been rode hard and put up wet. But at least I can revel in the fact that they don't have to look new to perform like new. And I used WD40 and a crystolon stone, India stones, granite wrapped with sandpaper and scotchbrite to slick mine up. Then I put on 4 coats of JPW. She's not the prettiest but she runs just fine.

IMG_0611.jpg

[glenn bradley]

And hey(!), that suitcase in your photo is a still from a Twilight Zone episode set in a bus station, yes?

Bingo. You have a sharp eye and a good memory. The episode was titled 'Mirror Image' if memory serves.

[Bruce Page]

Ha! I know! It's a long story. In a nutshell, I made a pact with myself not to use the new saw until I sold my first table saw, in use for 30 years: a flex-drive Craftsman with cast iron table and extensions (1-1/16 HP motor, too). It served me amazingly well until the flex-shaft gave up last winter. SEARS is a RIPOFF! They charge $160 for the replacement shaft, and that convinced me to sell my ol' partner to a good home at a very low price - to offset the new owner's high cost for the replacement shaft (sniff).

I bought my Unisaw 16 years ago to replace a Craftsman. I couldn't get the C'man sold and out of my shop quick enough! Once you get the Uni set up and running you'll be kicking yourself in the butt for not doing it sooner.

[Tom Burgess]

Charles Wiggins ==
Thanks for your comments. I assumed one coat was all that is needed. So do you wipe on, wait for fogging, then wipe off three times? Or do you add BUFFING to that sequence for each iteration? In other words, when applying three coats of wax, do you BUFF only ONCE, after the third coat has been wiped off?

Also, I don't count on WD-40 for rust prevention. WD-40 is not a rust inhibitor and has a dubious reputation when used in that way. Apparently it can encourage rust under certain circumstances. I suggest CLP (Cleaner Lubricant Protectant) instead. I know you're not actually suggesting its use as a rust inhibitor, but I want to alert others who might rely on WD-40 for that.

So let me get this straight. You have a brand spanking new Delta Unisaw? Still in the box? *faint*

Yours looks fine to me, Scott. In fact, I'd say you've got it seriously 'tricked out' with that router table extension, etc...and I'll bet that INCRA fence is very accurate.


Let me ask you guys $omething:

Mine is a 10" Delta Unisaw ULTRA X5 with the Delta UniFence rather than the Biesmeyer option. It has an extension table on the right and the Delta roll-around stand. I bought it from an authorized dealer (during a traveling Delta factory event) in 2006 or 2007. It's absolutely unused.

Is this saw considered "unique" and/or particularly desirable? Is it particularly sought after?

[Tom Burgess]

Bingo. You have a sharp eye and a good memory. The episode was titled 'Mirror Image' if memory serves.

Very cool, Glenn. And I like your George Orwell quote as well. All the more poignant in this, our current social/political reality (and I use the term loosely).

[Tom Burgess]

I bought my Unisaw 16 years ago to replace a Craftsman. I couldn't get the C'man sold and out of my shop quick enough! Once you get the Uni set up and running you'll be kicking yourself in the butt for not doing it sooner.

So my progression from Craftsman to Delta is not a 'unique tale'. That's encouraging. I hear you loud and clear, and I'm sure you're right, but I did some amazing stuff wiff dat ol Crapsman. Yeah, I had to constantly tap the far end of the original fence to get it properly aligned with the blade (yikes ) but Patience is a virtue and Humility is too, right?

That said, see my post #12. I might never 'know of the joy' of this particular Unisaw, after all.

[Charles Wiggins]

Charles Wiggins ==
Thanks for your comments. I assumed one coat was all that is needed. So do you wipe on, wait for fogging, then wipe off three times? Or do you add BUFFING to that sequence for each iteration? In other words, when applying three coats of wax, do you BUFF only ONCE, after the third coat has been wiped off?

One coat probably would do it in most cases, but I always assume I missed something. I buff each layer. If you have time it's better to wait overnight between applications to give it time to harden more, but I am not sure this makes a huge difference.