New Table Saw - Assembly Questions

[Myk Rian]

I clean the top with alcohol, then slather on the paste wax.
Use a heat gun or hair drier to melt the wax in.
Buff it up.

[Scott Hearn]

Let me ask you guys $omething:

Mine is a 10" Delta Unisaw ULTRA X5 with the Delta UniFence rather than the Biesmeyer option. It has an extension table on the right and the Delta roll-around stand. I bought it from an authorized dealer (during a traveling Delta factory event) in 2006 or 2007. It's absolutely unused.

Is this saw considered "unique" and/or particularly desirable? Is it particularly sought after?

Personally I'd just stay the course you are on and keep it. That's a late model Delta and there is a camp out there that says they weren't the same quality as the old ones and also that Delta's customer service/parts availability isn't very good. Not saying I agree with all that but it does seem it would affect the value and I think there is some merit in that thinking. Some say that the Unifence is the best fence made, others like the Biese. I don't think you'd get enough additional funding out of it to warrant dealing with a lesser saw and you will likely be able to take your woodworking to a whole new level with that cabinet saw. It's a good saw and still on a level above the Chinese/Taiwan imports. Get a couple of good blades (if you don't already have them) and rock on. My twocents...

[Earl McLain]

Let me ask you guys $omething:

Mine is a 10" Delta Unisaw ULTRA X5 with the Delta UniFence rather than the Biesmeyer option. It has an extension table on the right and the Delta roll-around stand. I bought it from an authorized dealer (during a traveling Delta factory event) in 2006 or 2007. It's absolutely unused.

Is this saw considered "unique" and/or particularly desirable? Is it particularly sought after?

I can't speak directly on the value of a particular Unisaw package, but most of my power tools were purchased used. I buy tools to use, not to collect, so a given special package/anniversary/commemorative paint job carries pretty much no value to me, though if that package makes the tool better to use THAT has value to me. Part of the savings in buying used is that I don't get most of the warranty/guarantee/factory support that comes with a "new" tool. If I were looking at yours, I'd view it as "used" since it's not going to carry a warranty, but likely in great LOOKING condition since most of it is still boxed.

I'd actually get a little nervous about the fact that it's never been used (or even unpacked)--a saw that has been used has usually had the manufacturing defects (if any) discovered and corrected. Unused unassembled--I don't know what's bent or out of spec until it's put together and can be put through its paces. I'd expect the belts to have a few memory lumps at a minimum, probably to be replaced pretty quick--at a minimum for repair. In the boxes--it would have to be an excellent bargain for me to take a shot at it--but that's just me talking.

If it were already mine...and money is always an issue...I'd spend several nights looking at prices on CL and the auction site (for both my saw and the possible replacements), mixed in with some time standing in the garage/shop looking at the boxes with my head tilted one way then the other. After a week or two--I'd probably figure that by the time I sell and buy something a few steps down I'd net at most a few hundred dollars--and regret it for 15 or 20 years. Then I'd put the Uni together, with a fresh set of belts, and kick myself for not doing it 8 years sooner!!

My opinions only--your mileage may vary. Good luck!!
earl

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Also, I don't count on WD-40 for rust prevention. WD-40 is not a rust inhibitor and has a dubious reputation when used in that way. Apparently it can encourage rust under certain circumstances. I suggest CLP (Cleaner Lubricant Protectant) instead. I know you're not actually suggesting its use as a rust inhibitor, but I want to alert others who might rely on WD-40 for that

I don't think that the intent was to use WD-40 for rust prevention, but rather, to use it to remove what ever might be on it now and to help remove the rust. I have some thick oil that I purchased at a gun show probably 20 years ago and I put some of that down and then hit the surface with steel wool to remove rust. I could probably do the same with WD-40 and I assumed that was what was meant. You would probably want to clean well after using the WD-40 and before the wax.

[Rod Sheridan]

So my progression from Craftsman to Delta is not a 'unique tale'. That's encouraging. I hear you loud and clear, and I'm sure you're right, but I did some amazing stuff wiff dat ol Crapsman. Yeah, I had to constantly tap the far end of the original fence to get it properly aligned with the blade (yikes ) but Patience is a virtue and Humility is too, right?

That said, see my post #12. I might never 'know of the joy' of this particular Unisaw, after all.

Nope, pretty familiar trend, I even owned the same flex drive saw, it was a good machine. Being Canadian I didn't buy a Unisaw, I bought a General 650, now replaced by a Hammer B3...........Have fun with the Unisaw...........Rod.

[Rod Sheridan]

Charles Wiggins ==
Thanks for your comments. I assumed one coat was all that is needed. So do you wipe on, wait for fogging, then wipe off three times? Or do you add BUFFING to that sequence for each iteration? In other words, when applying three coats of wax, do you BUFF only ONCE, after the third coat has been wiped off?

Also, I don't count on WD-40 for rust prevention. WD-40 is not a rust inhibitor and has a dubious reputation when used in that way. Apparently it can encourage rust under certain circumstances. I suggest CLP (Cleaner Lubricant Protectant) instead. I know you're not actually suggesting its use as a rust inhibitor, but I want to alert others who might rely on WD-40 for that.



Yours looks fine to me, Scott. In fact, I'd say you've got it seriously 'tricked out' with that router table extension, etc...and I'll bet that INCRA fence is very accurate.


Let me ask you guys $omething:

Mine is a 10" Delta Unisaw ULTRA X5 with the Delta UniFence rather than the Biesmeyer option. It has an extension table on the right and the Delta roll-around stand. I bought it from an authorized dealer (during a traveling Delta factory event) in 2006 or 2007. It's absolutely unused.

Is this saw considered "unique" and/or particularly desirable? Is it particularly sought after?

Hi Bruce, I like the Unifence much more than the Biesemeyer.

The uni can be used as a multi position fence to improve operator safety, it's a real keeper in my mind...........Regards, Rod.

[Myk Rian]

I don't think that the intent was to use WD-40 for rust prevention, but rather, to use it to remove what ever might be on it now and to help remove the rust.

No. WD-40 helps PREVENT rust by displacing water. Water Displacer formula #40.
It doesn't do anything to remove rust, except as a lubricant for some dit-wit sanding his table top.

[Tom Burgess]

I clean the top with alcohol, then slather on the paste wax.
Use a heat gun or hair drier to melt the wax in.
Buff it up.

Thanks, Myk. It's fun to read the varying 'recipes' guys employ.

Per your comments, I'll wipe the table parts down will isopropyl alcohol as the last step before my first coat of wax. And I guess I'll apply at least two coats of wax this first time.


QUESTION 1 for Myk
How does using the blow dryer affect or relate to the 'fog stage" that indicates it's time to remove the applied wax?
Are you applying the wax, heating it with the blow dryer right away, and then waiting for the 'fog' to appear in 10 to 30 minutes as usual?


QUESTION 2 for Anyone
Are you guys suggesting I use a fine steel wool (#0000) on the entire top before applying wax, or just that one odd rust spot on the side of the center segment (as mentioned in my post #1)?

Also, I have diamond stones for dressing/truing milling machine surfaces to absolute flatness/smoothness. Do you guys go to those extremes in setting up table saw? Or is that overkill?

[Tom Burgess]

1. Personally I'd just stay the course you are on and keep it.

2. That's a late model Delta and there is a camp that says they weren't the same quality as the old ones, and also that Delta's customer service/parts availability isn't very good [...] it does seem that would affect the value, and I think there is some merit in that thinking.

3. Some say the Unifence is the best fence made.

4. I don't think you'd get enough additional funding out of it to warrant dealing with a lesser saw

5. You will likely be able to take your woodworking to a whole new level with that cabinet saw.

6. It's a good saw and still on a level above the Chinese/Taiwan imports.

7. Get a couple of good blades (if you don't already have them) and rock on.

MUSIC TO MY EARS, SCOTT! Thanks for making such an effective argument for KEEPING this saw.

[Tom Burgess]

[...] most of my power tools were purchased used. [...] Part of the savings in buying used is that I don't get most of the warranty/guarantee/factory support that comes with a "new" tool. If I were looking at yours, I'd view it as "used" since it's not going to carry a warranty.

a saw that has been used has usually had the manufacturing defects (if any) discovered and corrected. Unused unassembled--I don't know what's bent or out of spec until it's put together and can be put through its paces. I'd expect the belts to have a few memory lumps at a minimum, probably to be replaced pretty quick--at a minimum for repair.

If it were already mine...after a week or two I'd probably figure that by the time I sell and buy something a few steps down I'd net at most a few hundred dollars--and regret it for 15 or 20 years.

Then I'd put the Uni together, with a fresh set of belts, and kick myself for not doing it 8 years sooner!!

MORE MUSIC TO MY EARS...for the most part. Thanks, Earl, though now I'm wondering about the belts and thinking it'd be a lot easier to replace them now, while I have full access before mounting the top to the cabinet... But because money really is a big factor, I'm going to cross my fingers and assume they're fine (gee, I wonder if this decision will come back to haunt me...naw). I'll rotate the blade spindle/shaft by hand (if possible) and then plug in and fire it up before mounting the top. Hopefully the belts will run smoothly. They look perfect, but of course, they've remained in that exact position for nearly a decade...

[Tom Burgess]

Nope, pretty familiar trend, I even owned the same flex drive saw, it was a good machine. Being Canadian I didn't buy a Unisaw, I bought a General 650, now replaced by a Hammer B3

Neat. I used my Craftsman for every kind of project you can think of. Even took it to job sites on occasion. I replaced the awful plastic hand wheels with larger cast metal wheels and everything was fine. Low-power motor and flex-drive imposed cutting capacity limitations and the half-baked fence was a weak point, but never a bit of trouble until the drive end separated from the braided flex shaft. For the record, that occurred 30+ years after purchase and I never once greased the flex shaft.

It never occurred to me until I read on this forum that best practice is to remove the shaft from its housing and re-grease once a year. That revelation came druing my research last winter, after the shaft croaked. I read online comments berating the flex drive, but 30 years of reliable service with zero maintenance speaks very well of that system (sez I).

The Unifence can be used as a multi position fence to improve operator safety, it's a real keeper in my mind.

Yes. The extruded fence portion can be attached to the header(?) a couple of different ways, providing either a tall fence or a low fence, and the extrusion can be slid toward or away from the operator to accommodate work pieces of various lengths/sizes. AND...there's a $90 accessory fence that is similar to the Biesmeyer fence (but more versatile) that simply swaps places with the Unifence extruded fence in just a minute or two. Hey, I'm gettin' excited about this now!

[Tom Burgess]

I don't think that the intent was to use WD-40 for rust prevention, but rather, to use it to remove what ever might be on it now and to help remove the rust.

Agreed. I just wanted to point out how WD-40 does not inhibit rust.

You would probably want to clean well after using the WD-40 and before the wax.

Thanks. I think I'll wipe everything down with rubbing alcohol as suggested my Myk Rian above.

[Tom Burgess]

WHAT I KNOW SO FAR:

1. Mineral Spirits removes the cosomline (or whatever surface protectant was used) with no effort at all. 'Wipes it right off.

2. There are some very sharp edges, particularly the underside of the T-slots. Ask me how I know.

3. CLP and fine emory cloth removed the small rust spot on the edge (the side) of the main section of the top. It left a minor indentation/pit, but it's entirely shiny. No rust there now.

[Tom Burgess]

Below is a picture of my 'modified' Delta mobile base, with extension. I went this route for three reasons:

1) I'm tall, so a 42" table height is not a problem.
2) The concrete garage floor is often damp, and occasionally wet.
3) The concrete floor is rough in some spots, with a couple of wide expansion joints that are tough on rubber wheels.

When I relocate, hopefully I'll have a smooth, dry floor. If so, I'll probably set up the mobile base as designed/intended - but may still raise the saw for a better working height.

TODAY'S ISSUE: I need to lift the saw cabinet onto/into the mobile base. I'm working alone.

See two photos of the cabinet, sans top.

I intend to lift the cabinet off its pallet by means of a 1-ton chain hoist, but am not sure where to run my lifting strap.

1) I could run the strap under the motor/arbor/tilt-elevation carriage, but that's all designed to be supported from below. I think exerting serious upward/lifting force might bend or break a mounting point, or damage one of the mechanisms.

2) See the four tabbed holes at the top of the cabinet. I could pass a bolt through each hole, and then through a length of 2x4 that spans two holes horizontally (so there would be two horizontal 2x4s, each with a bolt passing vertically through each of its two ends). The 2x4s would function as 'handles' similar to suitcase handles. I could route my lifting strap under the two 2x4s and lift carefully. All the weight would be suspended on those four metal tabs, though.
What do you think?

Thanks,
Tom

[Jeff Ramsey]

Tom, why not post your location and put out a call for local Creeker's to help you assemble it? It's only an hour or so of work.