Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 19 of 19

Thread: New Fusions M2 Installed

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1,038
    Really interesting Tim, pretty cool to get to be the first one even if it does have a few glitches! I hope all goes smoother with head #2 tomorrow!
    Trotec Speedy 400 120w, Trotec Speedy 300 80w
    Thunderlaser Mars-130 with EFR 130w tube
    Signature Rotary Engravers (2)
    Epson F6070 Large Format Printer, Geo Knight Air Heat Presses (2)

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Posts
    1,843

    Fiber Engraving/Marking Settings

    Epilog provides base settings for nearly every wattage of CO2 they sell. However they have yet to provide anything for their Fiber lasers, short of a few guidelines in their manuals. They have had these machines out long enough now to have accumulated base settings... one would think.

    As stated earlier, the fiber settings are much more complicated than just increasing power and slowing down. So what I'm asking for is if anyone with a Fiber can share some of their settings. I know mileage may vary, but some rough settings for say deep engraving aluminum or different types of marks on pewter, brass, etc... would be helpful. I just don't happen to have a lot of different metals, such as titanium laying around to do testing with.
    Tim
    There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
    50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
    Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
    Epilog Mini 24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
    Ricoh SG3110DN
    - Liberty Laser LLC

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Suwanee, GA
    Posts
    3,686
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Bateson View Post
    As stated earlier, the fiber settings are much more complicated than just increasing power and slowing down.
    That is true but you can still generalize to some degree. It's different with a gantry machine vs a galvo, but it may actually be easier with a gantry machine since you don't have hatch to worry about. In general, slower speeds and higher powers will result in deeper engraving. Same thing with frequency - lower frequency is generally deeper than high frequency. So, combine low speed, high power and low frequency, and you'll have a recipe for fast, deep, engraving. To clean up the bottom of the engraved area you can increase the speed and use a higher frequency. Unless you have lots of time, and materials, to do testing, you'll find that for deep engraving you can use very similar settings for most metals. Dark engraving (mistakenly called annealing) and polishing are a different story and I'm not sure how they would work on a gantry machine, that's where you'll have to spend some time testing, but it's been my experience that I use higher speed, higher frequency, lower power and 3-5mm out of focus to get a good polished or darkened surface. I just finished up 240 titanium parts that were marked with a logo and serial number with a polished finish - they turned out spectacular!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Glenelg, MD
    Posts
    12,256
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Hair View Post
    That is true but you can still generalize to some degree. It's different with a gantry machine vs a galvo, but it may actually be easier with a gantry machine since you don't have hatch to worry about. In general, slower speeds and higher powers will result in deeper engraving. Same thing with frequency - lower frequency is generally deeper than high frequency. So, combine low speed, high power and low frequency, and you'll have a recipe for fast, deep, engraving. To clean up the bottom of the engraved area you can increase the speed and use a higher frequency. Unless you have lots of time, and materials, to do testing, you'll find that for deep engraving you can use very similar settings for most metals. Dark engraving (mistakenly called annealing) and polishing are a different story and I'm not sure how they would work on a gantry machine, that's where you'll have to spend some time testing, but it's been my experience that I use higher speed, higher frequency, lower power and 3-5mm out of focus to get a good polished or darkened surface. I just finished up 240 titanium parts that were marked with a logo and serial number with a polished finish - they turned out spectacular!
    Gary has it in a nutshell...
    Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )

    Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
    CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
    USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
    Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
    Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
    Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
    Delta 18-900L 18" drill press

    Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
    Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
    Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •