Oil based stain/Danish Oil

[Byron Trantham]

I recently visited a furniture store. They make everything they sell. I was most impressed with the finish. I was silky smooth. It had a very soft feel to it. I asked them how they did it. They said they sanded to 220 and hand rubbed danish oil. The wood I was looking at was maple. I want to build a red oak bunk bed set for a client and would like to duplicate their success. I need color [stain]. Can danish oil be applied over an oil based stain? I have not used danish oil before so any suggestions on it's application will help as well.

[Phil Phelps]

Byron, is that all they use? If you finish something in just an oil, it will need another application some time. I believe you can put just about anything over an oil base stain. Why not check with the Sherwin-Williams and Benjamin Moore stores. You may find something to suit your oak wood. If your spraying, a satin lacquer would do well.

[Jules Dominguez]

Byron, Watco danish oil is sold with dye built in. They may have the color you want.

I think if you used another oil stain first it would seal the wood and prevent the danish oil from penetrating.

However, a BIG word of caution if you use an oil finish - red oak pores are hollow, like straws. I've had experience with putting both Watco and Minwax oil stains on red oak, and had the oil bleed back out of the pores. After I finally got tired of wiping it off every thirty minutes and went to bed, more oil came out and dried overnight, and I had little bright spots with the natural color Watco finish and dark fly-specks with the colored Minwax finish. It doesn't do that uniformly on all of the surface, but where it does, it's a problem. There's probably a way to work around that problem, but mine is not to use an oil finish on red oak.

[Jules Dominguez]

Phil, I've used Watco danish oil finish on a lot of projects. It actually hardens within the fibers of the wood and makes it more durable, or at least that's the manufacturer's claim and also my perception. It doesn't need a topcoat to protect it. On the down side, if applied according to the manufacturer's instructions, the finish is a bit dull after it cures. Rubbing it with a second coat after the first coat dries adds a little life to it, and wax probably would also.

[Jim Becker]

Jules, Watco danish oil is an oil/varnish mixture. It penetrates and then cures, forming a film finish. It's not really an "oil" finish in the end like BLO and wax would be.

[Howard Acheson]

Let me suggest that the store is using a tinted oil/varnish like Watco. The application process that gets the "smooth silky" feel is to apply the first coat as called for on the label wiping it dry after it sits on the surface for 15-30 minutes. Let it dry overnight and next day apply more finish and now sand it in with 320 W&D paper, then let it set for the 15-30 minutes and wipe it dry. After it dries, apply a coat of paste wax using a grey scotchbrite pad and buff.