Buying blades for a new Sawstop 3hp. Please double check me…

[David Ragan]

I will come in as the simpleton.

Have had all kinds of cheaper BORG blades years ago.

Then, after some research, just got a bunch of Forrest WWII. For what I do, they are fine with my SS.

I don't count of a TS cut to be to finish cut. Perhaps one of the many things I am doing incorrectly....

[David Kuzdrall]

I have three Freud blades and they are three different kerf thinknesses; very annoying when they mount on the fence side of the arbor as the scale is only accurate for one of them. Yes...it is a small difference but if you switch blades mid project then it can cause some trouble for precise work.

when I am doing something critical, I use the fusion combo 40-tooth blade and don't change it out to ensure consistent cuts.

[glenn bradley]

I have three Freud blades and they are three different kerf thinknesses; very annoying when they mount on the fence side of the arbor as the scale is only accurate for one of them. Yes...it is a small difference but if you switch blades mid project then it can cause some trouble for precise work.

when I am doing something critical, I use the fusion combo 40-tooth blade and don't change it out to ensure consistent cuts.

Good observation. This is another reason that I have CP make my cutters 1/8" kerf. You could pick any width within reason but, 1/8" suits me.

Just for clarity on my previous post, I do have a collection of quality TK blades left over from my hybrid saw. I use them still now and again. If you have quality cutters, I would use them. If they are questionable, I would replace with blades that meet your needs.

[Keith Hankins]

Well first off, Congratulations you will love the new saw. I've had mine for about 1.5 years now, and absolutely love my ICS. I too went from thin kerf to full kerf. I started by using the regular blade that came with the saw, and even bought their professional blade. The cut of the stock blade ok but not for fine finish cuts that I'm use to with my Forrest blades. I put that one away for emergency cuts. Again, it's an ok blade.

My 2nd blade I tried was the Titanium blade they recommended. I have to admit for the money it's a good blade. Plenty of Carbide and the cuts are good on the cross cuts. Obviously rips will be great, and are clean. At 69$ a great value.

I also tried my Forrest 20T rib blade in my saw. I have that for ripping 12/4 and 16/4 stock. I notice my first issue with the fact that not all blades are exactly 10". I had to adjust my brake space a hair as it was small, but enough to trip the warning light on the console and prevent starting. I twas a quick turn of the supplied wrench and it was resolved. I will suggest you put a couple rare earth magnets on the edge of your saw and keep your wrench and splitter for quick access. Another tip is, I took a sharpie and put a mark on the brake spacer nut and saw to mark spot for that blade. If you switch between blades it makes any adjustment a few seconds.

When I sold my Griz 1023slx I kept my thin kerf blades and sold all 3 of them and took that money to pay for Forrest WWII 40T blade and the 20T rip blade. I had a full kerf WWI which is a good crosscut blade that I had on my RAS.

Of all my blades, the Forrest is top line. I have to say up front, I'm a fan of Forrest blades and have been since I bought my first one years ago! They have a ton of carbide and the cut is perfect.

I've been using those exclusively for almost the full time now. The WWII does great Cross cuts and perfect rips. The only time I've changed blades is when I'm using the rip blade for thick stock.

I'm sure other blades give a good cut, but don't recall ever getting bad reviews on the Forrest blades.

Cheers!

[Ruperto Mendiones]

I purchased the Carbide Processors glue line rip blade. I am beyond satisfied and I haven't looked back. I think it is worth the $ premium.

[John Schweikert]

I have a Carbide Processors 37208 rip blade, simply exceptional. Ripped a bunch of 12' lengths of mahogany for gunwales and spray rails.

I purchased the Carbide Processors glue line rip blade. I am beyond satisfied and I haven't looked back. I think it is worth the $ premium.

[Steve Wilde]

I do quite a bit of work with 8/4 or 10/4 so I am definitely looking to purchase a rip blade. I looked at them today at my local woodcraft, and almost pulled the trigger. I also use a lot of cherry, so I'm assuming a rip blade would help me prevent burning as well. I used my dado king for the first time today, I have to say I was impressed! I'd also like a chopmaster to add to my kapex, but the stock blade is pretty good so that will have to wait, too many other big ticket items to get first.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I do quite a bit of work with 8/4 or 10/4 so I am definitely looking to purchase a rip blade. I looked at them today at my local woodcraft, and almost pulled the trigger. I also use a lot of cherry, so I'm assuming a rip blade would help me prevent burning as well. I used my dado king for the first time today, I have to say I was impressed! I'd also like a chopmaster to add to my kapex, but the stock blade is pretty good so that will have to wait, too many other big ticket items to get first.

Steve....

You will love a 20t Forrest rip for those big slabs. "help" is the operative word in that sentence. "eliminate" is a bridge too far...2 many variables, but it will happen often....

fewer teeth = rougher cut - need a jointer pass. but - cleaner, and safer - you don't "lean into" the cut - that causes oppo for slips..............i don't care if your saw is hotdog-proof or not - that is smart WW

a 30t is good also...cherry is a "soft" hardwood, imo, compared 2 the HM and especially the QSWO, that i normally run. 30t may be fine 4 cherry, but for my stuff, the 20t is a noticeable improvement over 30t for 8/4 + 10/4

[Tom Walz]

First, thank you all for the kind remarks.

It is pretty hard tobuy a bad sawblade any more.

There has been a lot of activity in the sawblade industry to improve overallquality. As an example; side clearance deviation on a blade used to runas high as 0.010" and even 0.020". Now it is rarely ashigh as 0.005" on Big Box blades. On the World's Best Bladesit runs 0.0005" or less. (Side Clearance Deviation is a comparisonof the measurement of the tip from the saw plate.)

Basically I spent about 20 twenty years figuring out how to use advancedmaterials for saw blades. We were successful in mills and plants wherecut quality and tool life were extremely important and easy tomeasure. (Nobody knowingly buys a sheet of MDF, etc. with raggededges.)

Then the recession hit and many of my customers (top end saw shops and customblade manufacturers) were suffering. So we started advertising andselling their blades. They bought advanced material saw tips from us, wetold them to make the very best blades they could and then sold thoseblades.