Thanks Derek. Stupid question.
Dan
Member
Thanks Derek. Stupid question.
Dan
Contributor
Many Thanks Chris that is very helpful....I'm away for a couple of days but will try to figure out the micro-adjust installation when I get home. The picture is very helpful. Some day Felder will get around to providing competent installation instructions...but I'm not holding my breath! I love the Wixey DRO--I assume you drilled holes in the round bar to mount it--any other tips?
Thanks again,
Izzy
Contributor
Thanks Derek...that's exactly what I was looking for and those are great photos! Did you also replace the miter gauge with an Incra? Probably a lot more accurate than the Hammer miter gauge....
Thanks again,
Izzy
Contributor
Patrick,
Getting back to your question. I have the hammer n4400, as well as a few Grizzly tools including the 12" 634XP JP. There is no real difference in fit or finish between these tools. The grizzly table has a nicer finish as a matter of fact. When both are running, both are very smooth and not much vibration. I use the JP as a jointer only, and a dewalt planer for planing. In fact I've never even tried it for that.
Jonathan
Member
Izzy, it puzzles me why you need a picture as the head for the fence is one assembly and it just slides onto the bar. The Wixey is held by right angle brackets I made and they fix to the bolts that hold the round bar to the chassis of the saw. As for the instructions, I believe that in Europe no instructions are rewuired as the saws are nearly always installed by service personnel not the owner hence the videos they have made for other markets.Originally Posted by Izzy Charo
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
Member
Izzy, this may interest you
http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/Hamme...ceinstall.html
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
Contributor
Hi Izzy
The Hammer mitre fence remains. I am happy with it, plus the angle markings will only work with the original fence from the close end. The F and F fence is easy to remove and replace, and accurately. I feel that I have the best of both worlds with the current set up.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Member
Hi, Patrick.
I have had the Hammer K3 Winner for 3 months or so. I ordered it with no scoring blade (I do mostly hardwood furniture and not much panel work), and with preparations for a dado set. I bought the Forrest 6" Dado King set drilled for this saw and have made several tenons using the dado set, the cross-cut arm on the slider, and the rip fence to set the length of the tenon.
The saw really could use a zero-clearance insert as the space around the blade (not the dado set) makes it easy for thin offcuts to either shoot back or go into the dust collection. Making your own ZCI for this saw isn't as simple as what you might be used to so I bit the bullet and bought a blank insert from Felder (90-some bucks after shipping). I raised the blade through the insert (with the riving knife removed) to cut a zero-clearance slot then used a 1/8" spiral upcut bit on the router table to extend the slot for the riving knife. Works perfectly.
Like others on this forum I've made the Fritz & Franz jig. It works better than I would have guessed, even with small work pieces.
To this date I'm very pleased with the saw and don't regret the decision.
Contributor
Chris, Sorry to be confusing. I'm having trouble figuring our how the fine adjust fits into the head for the fence (mine came as separate pieces, with 4 nuts and washers). Agree it's obvious how the head itself fits onto the round bar. I just need to spend a bit more time with it...
Thanks,
Izzy
Member
Izzy, can you post a video of what you have? Are we talking about the fine adjuster knob on the side of the rip fence cast iron head? Does your have two locking levers?
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
Contributor
Chris, I hope the photos below will do the trick. The parts laid out are what Felder sent me after I purchased the Fine Adjustment for the rip fence head. No instructions included and I can't find a video that shows their installation. The rip head itself is shown in the other photos, including a view from the underside. Clearly the fine adjustment parts fit inside the rip head, and if someone has a picture of the correct arrangement of the nuts and washers that Fine Adjustment Parts.jpgRip Head.jpgwould be helpful...
Thanks!
IzzyRip Head Underside.jpg
Member
Here are the photos of mine, ask any questions if you are unsure of anything. I put the picture of the fine adjustment knob in to show what I did to fix mine. In the picture you can see a shiny thick washer, I had to machine that to stop the threaded rod flopping around and causing the fine adjust jaw digging into the bar that it clamped to. It is a bit of a balancing act putting it all together as the two plain nuts are started then the jaw started and finally the nyloc nut put on the rod. You then need to get the two plain nuts set up to prevent the rod flopping about or near enough, the jaw wound onto the rod so it is about centred on the slot that the locking knob goes through and is screwed into the jaw. then the nyloc is set to about an approximate position but in the end I don't know what the nyloc is supposed to do as the jaw travel limits are set by the slot that the locking knob sits in.
IMG_2000.jpgIMG_1998.jpgIMG_1994.jpg
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
Contributor
I had a A3-31 at work for 7 years, I manage a university prototyping shop. All in all the A3-31 is a well made machine, Felder is great with support, always has been responsive and their technicians are very knowlegeable.
The students in this environment are rough on equipment. When they don't know how to adjust a piece of equipment they don't ask the shop staff, they try to figure it out. One time a "genius" who, "knew what he was doing" deduced that the poor milling job he was receiving wansn't the result of his bad milling practice (spoiler alert, it was) but because the tables were out of flat. He doesn't know how to setup equipment, nor does he know what an indicator, machinist straight edge or feeler gauges are. So he proceded to f***-up the entire works. I spent two hours setting the tables back where they should be. They also don't listen and burn up the capacitors by NOT holding the green start button in until the machine comes up to speed. I spent a lot of time adjusting it. In my own shop where other users won't be messing it up it would be a great machine if you are into combos.
The way I mill wood, I don't like the combination machines. I prefer separates with the workflow I use. If you have the space, I'd go separates without hesitation. Unless perhaps you had a need for a 20" planer and only occasionally a 20" jointer, and had another jointer (using the 20 combo mostly as a 20" planer), or were severely limited in space. I like to mill the boards parallel then pick and chose for edge jointing. Having a combo means converting a whole lot of times. Realize you missed one stick? Now convert the planer, joint, convert, and try to match that thickness or take a dusting off everything once more.
Trevor Walsh
TWDesignShop
Contributor
Hi Derek,
Thanks for posting the pictures..I like the Incra for the F/F jig... And I happen to have an old Incra fence and Shop Stop around that I can use. Wondering how you attached the Incra fence to the board below it-- I assume you just drilled through the bottom of the fence, but thought I would ask if there was some other clever way you came up with that wasn't obvious in the photos-
Thanks,
Izzy
(Regards from Northern California!)
Contributor
Hi Chris,
Thanks very much for posting the pictures of the Fine Adjustment installed in the head...and the hints about how to make it all work. that's exactly what I was looking for! Will give it a try when I get back to my shop.
Izzy
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