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Thread: Calling all Hammer Owners

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Suwanee, GA
    Posts
    297
    Chris, I found this a few minutes ago, and was about to post this. Really elegant and simple solution. Love it.
    Blood, sweat, and sawdust

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh, Australia
    Posts
    2,700
    Patrick, we had a long and deep discussion on sliders a few years ago and most of it centred on ripping on a slider

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...e-sliding-saws
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  3. #33
    Hello
    I have the K3 48x48, A3-31 and N4400. Changes that I would do if starting over,
    1. K3 TS with 79" Slider
    2. Might have considered Felder J/P with motorized height adjustment
    3. No changes for BS
    4. Must have accessories for the TS, fence fine adjustment, mobility kit

    Really happy with the equipment.

    Jim

  4. #34
    I have a Hammer A3-31 with Hammer's spiral cutter. I have only had time to use it once since it arrived, so read this with some reservation. I am impressed with the machine. I recently used it to dimension 8/4 x 6" doug fir rough lumber for an outdoor table. The boards are 9-10' long. Jointing these boards were somewhat difficult, but doable with some roller stands. I don't have extension wings (yet). However, thickness planing them, without extension wings, were a breeze. No snipe. The surfaces are smooth. Push the board in, support it until it is half way through, run around, support it on the way out. Done. I have limited space for a shop, so the combination machine is nice. I put mine on leveling casters as my garage floor is slanted one way. The wood chips that come out are smaller than my old lunch-box planner.

    I called tech support once about a K3 to ask about electrical setup. It was a very informative conversation, more than what I were asking.

    I bought mine from a rep at the Sacramento branch. No complain here. The machine takes a while to come though.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Harper View Post
    Jim, thanks for the informative post. Do you own one of the 14" Minimax's. What brand/size slider? Do you ever use the slider to cut dados, tenons, etc?
    All my major tools are MiniMax, Patrick. FS350 J/P, S315WS 8'6" slider, MM16 bandsaw. (I didn't mention the brand because you were asking about Hammer) My slider is capable of running a dado blade, but I sold my Forrest Dado King years ago. I'll define the length of a tenon on the slider, but cut the cheeks at the bandsaw and clean up with a hand plane.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 06-27-2015 at 9:19 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    'over here' - Ireland
    Posts
    2,532
    Hi James. Re. fence fine adjustment. For what it's worth the Incra TS LS positioning fence can be fitted on a Hammer K3 without too much difficulty. It might or might not be to your taste if you are very used to using a stock fence (short learning curve), but it does deliver accurate positioning and if well installed holds its toe out adjustments. The only real inconveniences I've found are that it's a little more involved to remove than a stock fence (to e.g. cut a full ply sheet off the slider that needs more than say 800 mm rip capacity), and it needs some space to the RHS of the saw to accomodate the positioner on wider rip cuts.

    Not 100% sure in the case of the saw (but it's a large and probably not hugely rigid fabrication), but i'd be cautious of fitting a mobility kit unless the floor is very accurately flat. Definitely not in the case of the planer thicknessers where lifting one corner even slightly has very measurable effects on table height settings.

    diy low fence for incra ts ls.jpg

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh, Australia
    Posts
    2,700
    I ordered a fine adjustment on the rip fence from Hammer then fitted a Wixey DRO to it and the result is great, get it close and then dial the last bit in with the fine adjuster for repeatability. Someone else here did the same thing before I did it. I also did not order the outrigger initially because I did not see the need but I got a job to build 32 table tops for a restaurant so I added it later on, the cost was the same doing it either way. If you order the outrigger with the saw the crosscut fence is deleted, doing it my way I got both. Someone added an Incra fence system instead of the crosscut fence but I can't find the link now and I might do that in future for repeatability reasons though the Hammer scales are very fine and nice to read. He did it IIRC because his saw was ordered with the outrigger and no crosscut fence. Before I had the outrigger I changed the position of the crosscut fence to the front of the table to use the Fritz and Franz method of ripping or cross cutting and I had to order the hardware to fix the fence at the front which was no big deal and easy to install. next up I am going to install an overhead arm like the Felder machines for the on/off switch and the dust collector control which I have on attached to the side of the pressed metal extension table.
    Last edited by Chris Parks; 06-28-2015 at 9:00 PM.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    204
    Hello,
    I'm a new Hammer K3 48x48 owner and was glad to see this thread! The setup "instructions" are beyond awful, but as others have said, the videos are helpful. I have a couple of questions: First, if anyone has installed the Fine Adjustment on the K3 Winner I'd love to see a picture of how it goes on...I hope I have the correct part. Also, for the Fritz/Franz jig the crosscut fence needs to be mounted on the far end of the sliding table...I read one post in which someone did that, and would love details on how that was accomplished...do you have to remove the stop on the crosscut fence?
    Thanks!
    Izzy

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,247
    Hi Izzy, I'm not sure why the fence would need to be moved as I don't have the crosscut fence on when using the Fritz und Franz jig.

    Cutting small pieces.jpg

    That photo shows the edging shoe holding the rear part of the jig however I don't need anything to hold the rear of the jig unless my arms aren't long enough to hold both pieces.

    Alternatively you could simply add a thumbscrew with a t nut to the fixed part of the jig and self clamp it.............Rod.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh, Australia
    Posts
    2,700
    Quote Originally Posted by Izzy Charo View Post
    Hello,
    I'm a new Hammer K3 48x48 owner and was glad to see this thread! The setup "instructions" are beyond awful, but as others have said, the videos are helpful. I have a couple of questions: First, if anyone has installed the Fine Adjustment on the K3 Winner I'd love to see a picture of how it goes on...I hope I have the correct part. Also, for the Fritz/Franz jig the crosscut fence needs to be mounted on the far end of the sliding table...I read one post in which someone did that, and would love details on how that was accomplished...do you have to remove the stop on the crosscut fence?
    Thanks!
    Izzy
    That could be me, I did not have the outrigger so I put the cross cut fence on the out feed end of the sliding table. Another poster here (Derek Cohen) has done the same and put up photos in a recent thread. The fine adjuster you are referring to is the one on the rip fence?
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    204
    Thanks Chris...yes, the microadjuster on the rip fence...a picture of it installed would be very helpful...Thanks again!
    Izzy

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh, Australia
    Posts
    2,700
    Is this sufficient? It also shows the Wixey DRO I installed.It Looks neat enough (800 x 533).jpg
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,467
    Quote Originally Posted by Izzy Charo View Post
    Hello,
    I'm a new Hammer K3 48x48 owner and was glad to see this thread! .... Also, for the Fritz/Franz jig the crosscut fence needs to be mounted on the far end of the sliding table...I read one post in which someone did that, and would love details on how that was accomplished...do you have to remove the stop on the crosscut fence?
    Thanks!
    Izzy
    Hi Izzy

    We are in the same boat. My K3 has a 48" (actually it is 49" ) long slider (and 31" rip), which means that we need to conserve every inch of slider length when attaching a F&F jig, especially if there is no outrigger.

    I considered turning the crosscut fence around and placing at the end, but then I came up with an idea to mount an Incra fence at the far end ...



    I have made a small mod since that photo. Here is the end now ...





    The side fitting has a depth stop ..





    When the side clamp is locked down, the fence is perfectly square to the blade.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Posts
    136
    Derek,

    Is that because the metal bracket in the last picture is square? "the fence is perfectly square to the blade" Where did you get the clamp?

    Also, not to hijack but I am in the process of determining if the current Hammer Outrigger 1100 will work on my 1999 C3-41 with a 49" slider. Would someone mind measuring the with of the slot on the side of the table and the distance from the top of the table to the slot. So far Felder has not been able to determine if the outrigger will fit.

    http://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US...able-1100.html

    Also I'd like to get the width of the slot on the surface of the current model slider table. I'm thinking about the "Trimming Equipment" for making long straight line rips.

    http://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US...Equipment.html

    Thanks for any help.

    Dan

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,467
    Is that because the metal bracket in the last picture is square? "the fence is perfectly square to the blade" Where did you get the clamp?
    Dan, I just set it up accurately.

    I only have a pic for the opposing section. The runner rests in a dado for rigidity. It is a tight fit in the slot ..



    That should end up square across the slider, and square to the blade. Then add the side lock, preventing any movement ..



    The fence is square in the slot, and remains this way when it is slid forward until the side lock is against the end of the slot. The bolt at the central slot simple locks it down.

    The side lock piece? I found this in my salvage box. Otherwise I would have made one.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 11-09-2017 at 10:33 AM.

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