Best Way To Apply P&L 38 (?) To Spalted Maple Table? (Pics via link)

[Andrew Helman]

Hi Folks,

What's the current consensus (or differing views) on the best way to apply P&L 38 to a piece of spalted maple? Is this a good method: http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-t...g-varnish.aspx My current thinking is to thin the P&L anywhere from 25%-50% with mineral spirits and to wipe it on, or possibly to brush thinly, but welcome thoughts on successful applications that you may have had. (I have not yet decided whether I will apply paste wax.)

I've included links to a pic that shows the side of the slab I plan to use as the underneath (voids filled with West 105/207 and sanded to 120, though the top will go to 150; this side is not as nice as the "top"). https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing

You'll note three bands of varnish--I'm testing and thought you might be interested in seeing a side-by-side comparison. The band on the left is Waterlox OS (two coats brushed), the band in the middle is P&L 38 (one coat brushed), and the band on the right is Gen'l Arm-R-Seal (two coats brushed). I'm not happy with the way the P&L set up brushed--took too long to dry, so I got nibs and a few bugs, and it went on thick and looks a touch plastic.

I'm leaning toward P&L gloss because I don't want to darken the wood as much as it looks like the Waterlox will. And the Arm-R-Seal is, surprisingly, not that might lighter than the Waterlox. (I'd initially been thinking Waterlox because of ease of repairs, but I've seen a post by Scott Holmes suggesting witness lines are possible, so I'm not sure that the "repairability" trumps initial ambering for my personal taste, but I'm still on the fence.)

This is going to be an every-day dining table that my family will use (including two small kids). Dimensions are 7 1/2 feet long by 42 inches-34 inches-44 inches. There's another two feet not shown here that I cut off and am planning to turn into a coffee table that (I hope) I can raise up and down for additional seating. I've included a pic with the bases placed on top to give you a sense of the end goal. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing

Lastly, here is a link with a close up of the Waterlox (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing) the P&L (including a dead bug) (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing) and the Arm-R-Seal (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...ew?usp=sharing).

Ok, folks, let 'er rip.

Thanks, in advance, for your thoughts. This is my first project of this type ever.

Andrew

[Andrew Helman]

One follow-up question too. Do you have any advice on the sequence for wiping on the P&L? What I'm getting at is that I can only wipe either the top or bottom at one time but I can do the edges at any time. I was planning on having it bottom-side up and doing the bottom first all the way through to a finish coat and then doing the edges after I flip it over so that any "overage" that leaves a mark will be underneath. I appreciate any thoughts you may have, as I haven't tackled something like this before.

Thanks.

Andrew

[Bill Neely]

I've only used P&L 38 once so I'm not an expert. I applied it pretty much like this blogger did:

http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2014/10/...stripe-sapele/

I used it on plain maple and it didn't darken the wood much and after ~4 years in a bright sunny kitchen (sometimes) it hasn't yellowed/darkened appreciably.

[Andrew Helman]

Ok. Thanks. That's actually very helpful information. Any thoughts on wiping the varnish on the sides/edges vis a vis the top and bottom? What I'm wondering is whether I'm setting myself up for an issue later by doing just one side (the side to be used as the bottom) first, and then doing all the edges and the top together once I flip it.

[Jerry Thompson]

I have tried to get the FWW site to load all day and nada.

[John TenEyck]

Here's my approach. Bottom first, then flip it while still wet and set it on plastic pyramids, then do the top and edges. If you want to do just one side and let it dry before flipping, then I would do the top and sides first. If you do the bottom first and any drools down the sides it will be hard to get a uniform look on the edges. And if you let way too much drool down the sides and it curls around to the top, you'll have even more problems.

John

[Andrew Helman]

Jerry, Editing this to pull the link I posted because the FWW website appears to be working again. Thanks. Andrew

[Andrew Helman]

Here's my approach. Bottom first, then flip it while still wet and set it on plastic pyramids, then do the top and edges. If you want to do just one side and let it dry before flipping, then I would do the top and sides first. If you do the bottom first and any drools down the sides it will be hard to get a uniform look on the edges. And if you let way too much drool down the sides and it curls around to the top, you'll have even more problems.

John

John, Great points. Do you think I'd have the potential drip problem either way--even if I do the top and sides first and then flip? Either way, overage could spill? I'm a little stuck because I can't flip easily flip it myself (175lbs) and won't have anyone available for a few days (and am a little impatient, but . . .). I'll mull this over. Thanks for weighing in. Andrew

[Alan Lightstone]

I've used that FWW technique many times, and have spoken to Michael Pekovich about it in detail. It does work well. I've used mostly Waterlox with it. Kinda hard to screw it up. And yes, witness lines are indeed possible.

[Andrew Helman]

I've used that FWW technique many times, and have spoken to Michael Pekovich about it in detail. It does work well. I've used mostly Waterlox with it. Kinda hard to screw it up. And yes, witness lines are indeed possible.

Thanks, Alan. Another couple of general question for those on the thread (and big thanks for replies):

1. I have now done 2 sets of 4 very thin coats with a day between the coats and a quick pass with 320 grit followed by a vacuum. I have a few spots not yet shiny, presumably becase they are soaking it in. Just keep going? I don't want to end up with a plastic encasement but am not sure what to do to even it out. I assume this is a fairly common issue with lightly spalted maple. Here's a link to a photo of the issue: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...p=docslist_api


2. As you can see from the pic at the link I just posted, there's some slight texture to the finish, i.e. it doesn't feel glass smooth, and I am using P&L 38 Gloss. Is this normal for this stage? Does that even out with more coats? Is this what "finishing the finish" is for? I am applying with a soft cloth diaper (we have a few kicking around from mopping up spills when the kids were younger). A few other links for the current status:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...p=docslist_api

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3O...p=docslist_api

Again, still working on the eventual underneath and, as this is my first time on a project like this, looking to get it right before flipping over and doing the top surface and sides. Interstingly, though, I did sand out the end grain to 220 and wiped on a couple of coats for sealing purposes now, and that feels glass smooth. Maybe I should sand the top out past 150 to 220, but not sure if that would adversely impact absorption?

Thanks,
Andrew

[Ralph Okonieski]

I've used P&L a dozen times or more. I am a hobbyist so consider that in my answer.

I thin to about 50-50 with mineral spirits and wipe on. Apply two coats and (lightly) sand with 320 or higher. I apply to top first, then the sides in one sitting. I wipe underneath the bottom edge with a clean rag to remove any excess. Somewhere after 4-5 coats, flip it over and put several coats on the bottom. When flipped, a clean towel or something soft that will not scratch or mark the top is underneath. I generally do not do the sides when doing the bottom, but wipe the sides with a cloth to remove any excess that may have come from applying to the bottom. When satisfied with the bottom, flip over and put the last few coats on the top and sides. Normally, a minimum of 6-8 coats of wipe on are necessary till I'm happy with it. I've put 10 coats on some items depending on how thin the finish was. I may apply the first coat or two in one day but after that, it is overnight between coats. Finishing for me is about a two week or longer process as I do after work in the evenings.

P&L takes while to cure. It loads the sandpaper quickly. I really like the look it gives though.