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Thread: Right tool(s) for the job

  1. #1

    Right tool(s) for the job

    Hello everyone,

    I have several pieces of a tree trunk that fell in my yard after a recent storm. Each piece is roughly cylindrical, 18-24 inches diameter and about 12-15 inches long.

    I'd like to make a small end table out of one of the pieces, starting by cutting a medallion-shaped slice (say 2-3 inches thick) from one end to form the tabletop. I have access to a well-equipped shop, but I am unsure what tool is best (and safest) for doing so:


    • The table saw seems inappropriate, since the blade cannot be adjusted to anywhere near as high as the diameter of the pieces, and the irregular surface (bark) of each piece would make it very difficult to align multiple cuts (in the plane of the saw blade), even using the fence.
    • We also have a band saw, but the size of the raw pieces would again seem to make it tricky to push a cylindrical hunk through safely while still keeping it flush against any sort of guide.
    • Finally, we have a compound mitre saw, but its reach is nowhere near big enough.


    The only other idea I had was to build some sort of clamping jig/sled for multiple passes on the table saw. But could anyone suggest a better/cleaner/more appropriate way to make that initial cut? (Once I have the medallion, I'll align the top and bottom faces using the planer/jointer, and proceed from there.)

    Thanks very much in advance for any ideas.

    -Jon
    Last edited by Jon Heywood; 06-14-2015 at 9:20 PM. Reason: Cleanup/formatting

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    black river falls wisconsin
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    931
    would handsaw work with maybe widebelt to clean up?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Terrace, BC
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    519
    If your bandsaw won't handle it, I'd consider either a chainsaw or a handsaw for the initial cut.
    I love mankind. It's people I can't stand.

  4. #4
    Eugene,

    Thanks for the quick response!

    The planer will do just fine for cleaning up the surface (and aligning the top and bottom faces). It's the initial cut that I'm trying to figure out how to do.

    Sounds like I'll need to lay the piece on its side on a sheet of scrap, brace it somehow, and cut a 3in slice with a (fairly long) handsaw. I'm not sure if the shop has any that are long enough—given the two-foot diameter, I assume I'd need one with a blade at least 26-28 inches long or so, but the longest I remember seeing is about 24 inches (I think). In any case, I'll check at the shop tomorrow.

    Thanks again,

    Jon

  5. #5
    Hi Roy,

    Thanks for the quick reply. You and Eugene both suggested a handsaw, so I'll need to check in the shop to see if we have one that's long enough. Otherwise I guess I will need to find someone with a chainsaw to make the initial cut.

    Thanks!

    -Jon

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Napa Valley, CA
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    916
    It is unlikely that a disk cut from a log will survive as a table top without cracking-- The wood around the perimeter will shrink more than the wood near the center, creating stress in the piece that almost always leads to one or more pie-shaped cracks. Cutting and flattening might be the easy part. Good luck.

  7. #7
    What Jerry said. It will crack through the pith, no matter how you dry it.

    Also, be advised: Cutting green work is a LOT of work. Make sure you have the right handsaw, should you want to go through with this anyway.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Midland MI
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    887
    I tried thos with a smaller, maybe 10 inch log, that was older, it had lain in the wood's for a few years, it look awesome, i coated it with epoxy to try and stabilize it, it worked until i ttied to remove the excess epoxy then it self destructed, i thinknthe only way to do this would be to leave a large chunk with end grain sealer for a few years, to dry, cut it and put thick layer of epoxy, or posibly cut it in half, through the pith, let it dry, cut it staright then glue back together

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    NE Ohio
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    6,977
    Don't underestimate the power of a good (or even a cheap junk) bow saw.

    I picked up a cheapie once at a close out store for 10 bucks and was amazed at how fast it went through green wood.
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
    Wonderful man, terrible cabinet maker...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,247
    I would purchase a 36 inch or longer bow saw to make that cut.

    It will however be a waste of time as the piece you cut off will split, possibly in several areas as it dries.

    That's why you don't mill pieces from the end of the log...........Regards, Rod.

  11. #11
    Thanks everyone for the detailed suggestions. I hadn't thought about the wood splitting/cracking due to stress as it dries. For what it's worth, the design I had in mind was something like this, this, or this. And indeed, I can see the cracks in every one of those.

    On the other hand, this is basically a low-risk fun project for me; if I decide not to do anything with the hunks of wood, I'd just take them to the scrap yard anyway. (And provided the cracks that do form aren't catastrophic structurally, I actually think that rustic appearance is kind of nice.) Out of curiosity, has anyone tried bracing such a disk with high-tensile-strength galvanized strapping around the pith and letting it air dry for several months (or kiln drying it)?

    In any event, I really appreciate all the sage advice. Thanks again!

    -Jon

    p.s.

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