Any easy plans for a cross cut sled?

[Michael Cole]

Would like to build a cross cut sled for my table saw. Anyone have links to plans for an easy to make sled?

[James Tibbetts]

Mike welcome to the asylum! Do a search on youtube for wood whisperer cross cut sled. He has a real good video on making one and truing it up. Really a pretty simple project and for my money the best table saw accessory.

[Jebediah Eckert]

+1 on above. I built that one and found the video to be easy to follow.

[Michael Cole]

Thanks, I will look that up!

[Michael Cole]

I watched it. It was a great video. I don't know that I can be as precise as he is though. I have 2 projects to finish up (a cart for my new planer which I got put together today, just have to sand, finish and wait for the hinges for the wings, and a reloading die cabinet for my son) and then I can get started with that!

[Von Bickley]

Don't have any plans, but one piece of advice, be sure your blade is parallel to your miter slot before you build one.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Another piece of advise if I may...... make sure you use a blade of the kerf width you intend to use for the life of the sled when you make the initial cut in it......and remember to use that kerf width blade in the future.

[Prashun Patel]

Whatever plans you use, a couple lessons learned (as if I have made a million of these... :

You need to buy or make precisely milled miter runners. Use quartersawn stock if you are making them from wood.

A 3/4" thick base gives you something to screw the runners into, but is heavy. A 1/2" base is easier to lift if your sled is large. A 1/4" base can even be appropriate for a smaller sled and doesn't take up as much blade height.

The easiest way (for me) to attach the runners to the base was to shim the slots with pennies so the runners are proud of the slots, then put glue on them, then sit the sled base on that. It's not critical that it's perfectly square. You can reinforce with screws after the glue is set.

Adhere some 150grit sandpaper to the fence so the stock doesn't slide.

I like a couple of laminated pieces of plywood for the fences. The edges aren't pretty, but they stay flat and are lighter than MDF.

[Pat Barry]

The first one I built I used some scrap 3/4 particle board and it worked for several years. The biggest problem with it was the fact I used a single runner in the left miter slot. It did the job though but I didn't like the sloppiness of the runner in the miter slot. Fast forward several years and I made a new one from 1/2 baltic birch plywood (much better than particle board lol... The biggest improvment was to go to a double runner design - much more secure and repeatable. , Like Prashun mentioned though, attach the runners first, and then attach the fence.

[Jebediah Eckert]

A bunch of years ago I took a woodworking class. In the class the instructor talked about making sleds. He said everyone says to use hardwood runners, ignore that, use Baltic birch 3/8" plywood, it is more stable and durable. The sleds in the school were all made with plywood runners and were subject to heavy use. Ever since I have made mine out of plywood I find it easier to get a good fit and they don't need to be adjusted from season to season. I'm just not sure why it is never mentioned in any of the videos? Everyone uses quarter sawn hardwood. What am I missing with this, other then you may not have 3/8" BB on hand? I bought a small sheet and kept creeping the tablesaw fence in until I got a perfect fit. Then I cut a bunch of runners and have them on hand when I need them for other sleds.

Also I use Prashun's method for attaching the runners and it has given me the best fit and smoothest travel. Why does everyone seem to use screws as well? Shouldn't the glue joint be plenty strong? I found the screws were the culprit of smooth travel. I guess they ever so slightly mushroom the wood causing sticky points on the runner. When I stopped using them the sled traveled smooth. Gone were the days of trying to figure out where the runners were running.

[Michael Cole]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I really appreciate it.

[Mike Cutler]

In the book, "Jigs and Fixtures Bible", by RJ "Cris"DeCristoforo, is a crosscut sled that is in my opinion, the best I've seen. The book devotes quite a few pages on to how to build it, complete with step by step instructions and pictures. There is also a complete cut list.
It's currently on Amazon for $1.36, used. For less than two bucks, it's worth having, even if you don't build the sled.

[Frederick Skelly]

I used UHMW runners. Slick as heck and very stable. I strongly agree with Prashun - use a 1/4" base if at all possible. I used 3/4" plywood and it was a beast to lift on/off the saw.

Full disclosure: after fighting that heavy sled for years I finally got an Incra Miter Express on sale. Far nicer than the homemade sled I had.

Fred

[Curt Harms]

I made a Norm-style single runner panel cutter. I made the runner out of 3/8" X 3/4" mild steel. It wouldn't fit the T.S. slot from the store. I had to grind/file it to fit. I took some time there to get a nice snug but not rubbing fit. I then drilled and tapped 2 holes in the steel runner and screwed 1/2" ply to that. One nice thing about the 'one-sided' sled is that it's nice and light and easy to store. I wax the sides of the miter bar periodically to eliminate miter slot wear. I should (but haven't) made a 'dummy' for the right side that doesn't move. That would eliminate any risk of the very end of the cut dropping & breaking.

[glenn bradley]

We all have our favorites so I'll just add things that I have learned to have on a sled to assure a long and useful life:
1, Replaceable inserts for the fence and bed. Sled slots wear due to the wood fibers passing through just like the slots on your ZCI's.
2. An adjustable fence. T-bolts in oversized (or slotted) holes is my favored method. Only a small amount of adjustment range is required.
3. A block or box to shield the blade as it exits the fence. Play safe.
4. Reliable runners. I have used white oak, ash, Incra commercially available aluminum runners and UHMW all with equal success and no problems after years of use.
5. An understanding that this will not be the last sled you ever make. ;-)