Any easy plans for a cross cut sled?

[Curt Harms]

I made a Norm-style single runner panel cutter. I made the runner out of 3/8" X 3/4" mild steel. It wouldn't fit the T.S. slot from the store. I had to grind/file it to fit. I took some time there to get a nice snug but not rubbing fit. I then drilled and tapped 2 holes in the steel runner and screwed 1/2" ply to that. One nice thing about the 'one-sided' sled is that it's nice and light and easy to store. I wax the sides of the miter bar periodically to eliminate miter slot wear. I should (but haven't) made a 'dummy' for the right side that doesn't move. That would eliminate any risk of the very end of the cut dropping & breaking.

[glenn bradley]

We all have our favorites so I'll just add things that I have learned to have on a sled to assure a long and useful life:
1, Replaceable inserts for the fence and bed. Sled slots wear due to the wood fibers passing through just like the slots on your ZCI's.
2. An adjustable fence. T-bolts in oversized (or slotted) holes is my favored method. Only a small amount of adjustment range is required.
3. A block or box to shield the blade as it exits the fence. Play safe.
4. Reliable runners. I have used white oak, ash, Incra commercially available aluminum runners and UHMW all with equal success and no problems after years of use.
5. An understanding that this will not be the last sled you ever make. ;-)

[Curt Harms]

An adjustable fence. T-bolts in oversized (or slotted) holes is my favored method. Only a small amount of adjustment range is required.

I find this useful too. I added a fixed section to the sled in back of the movable fence. In that fixed section is a through hole with T nut. Put a machine screw with lock nut butting against the fence. Now I have a fine adjustment mechanism and once locked a stop for the fence.

[Robert Engel]

Eagle Lake

Nick Ferry