Attaching ledger board to cement block

[MATT HASSMER]

Hello, Everyone

I have a crawlspace area under the house deep enough for me to stand & was thinking about turning it into a general workshop area & storage. the foundation is cinder block. I have a table top drill press, a router + table, & a sliding compound miter saw. I'd like some opinions on the best way to add the "counter/work table" to the cement block. I was thinking of either using the powder actuated nails or hammer drilling & using lag bolts with lead anchors. I can't decide which would be best & would hold after bringing in the table top power tools. I actually have a pretty long run on one wall (approx 18 feet) & though of making an "L" on the connecting wall extending the counter space another 7-8 feet. I figured I would place 2 runs of ledger boards along the wall & use 2x4 or 2x6 for angle braces along the run every 4 ft or so. The ground is uneven w/ vapor barrier in the crawlspace so I don't think "legs" & pier blocks for the countertop would work, but i could be wrong. I also have a junction box under there & was thinking ov having an electrician buddy come over to help run power & lighting to the work area. Ok. So that's my general idea. I'm ready for suggestions, advice, opinions. You know what they say... everybody's got 'em.

[Jamie Buxton]

I'd use hollow wall anchors into the hollow portions of the cinderblock.

[MATT HASSMER]

Hmm... I also see a SNAPTOGGLE heavy duty toggle bolt option by Toggler. i just don't want the unit to pull away from the wall & don't want to degrade the integrity of the cinderblock either. I don't think downward pressure at the ledger board is much of a concern. I'm mostly concerned with the counter top pulling away from the wall.

[Kent A Bathurst]

My CMS sites on a table that is double-layer 3/4" ply, glued and screwed, 18" x 17'. It sits on a box frame made from 2x4, with stretchers at 30". Assembled with 1/4" lag screws.

The back of the box frame is anchored to the wall with lead anchors and 1/4" lag screws, every 16" +/-. The box frame is clear-span, with the back anchored to the wall and legs at each end of the 17'. LUmber storage and tool storage under the table.

I put the first layer of ply on the box frame - glued and screwed down. Then I put the 2d layer of ply on that, glued and screwed up from the bottom.

I over-engineer everything. You could park a Kia in this table. Which I have not done. Yet.

[Chris Padilla]

If possible, I'd think seriously about pouring concrete down there and creating yourself a nice solid floor to stand on and use. You will tear up that vapor barrier over time walking on it.

[Julie Moriarty]

We have to attach to cinder block walls occasionally for conduit runs or hanging boxes, panels or disconnects. For years the go to anchor was lead hollow wall anchors. You need a hollow wall set to install them properly. Some municipalities outlawed lead anchors because they melt in a fire and everything comes down.

Next option was toggle bolts, usually 3/8" or 1/2" for heavier items. There are cheap ones and decent quality ones. You can tell by looking at the thickness of the nut in the wings.

If you hit the solid in the cinder block, you can sometimes get away with a drop-in anchor, depending on the quality of the cinder block. The more porous the block, the less likely it is you can use drop-ins.

Sleeve anchors are another option, again depending on the strength and thickness of the wall in the block. Forget power actuated tools. Your wall will look like wood peckers got to it.

If permanent is okay, you could add construction adhesive to the installation. That and an acceptable anchor should work for any bench application.

[MATT HASSMER]

If possible, I'd think seriously about pouring concrete down there and creating yourself a nice solid floor to stand on and use. You will tear up that vapor barrier over time walking on it.


You're probably right. I don't think i have the money for that, though. I thought of putting some pallets on sandbags or something like that & cover the pallets with plywood

[MATT HASSMER]

that's what I would do if it were in a garage. unfortunately, all i have is crawlspace. I was thinking the legs would tear up the vapor barrier unless I used pier blocks or something.



The box frame is clear-span, with the back anchored to the wall and legs at each end of the 17'. LUmber storage and tool storage under the table.