Does this stuff wear very well when sliding on wood, concrete?
Am thinking about making a jig for a track saw using some strips, and also using some to facilitate my DC barrel sliding on the floor when emptying....
Does this stuff wear very well when sliding on wood, concrete?
Am thinking about making a jig for a track saw using some strips, and also using some to facilitate my DC barrel sliding on the floor when emptying....
David
Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)
oh, yeah - very slidy stuff - lasts a long time in industrial-strength applications.
just one thing - when you drive screw into / thru it, it will expand/mushroom without proper pilot holes/countersinks/ care
saw/route/drill/machine - all very easy
I gots a chunk of 3/4" around somewhere - maybe 24" x 36" - - - maybe 18" x 30" - - - in that range
We could work out a deal somehow if you want it......
When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.
I use it to protect the runners on my snow blower from the concrete driveway. It is often used as a liner for dump trucks so the gravel/dirt will slide out easier when tee bed is tipped.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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David
Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)
UHMW is made to slide things across, that's it's job It's on tons of conveyor systems and places where things slide across them all day.
Last edited by Chris Padilla; 06-05-2015 at 2:03 PM.
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Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.
Yeah I agree w/ what everyone else says, it is great.
One of the woodworking magazines even made mobile bases that, instead of wheels, had UHMW pads. You didn't wheel the machines around, you slid them. It looked interesting.
Dirt and grit can get embedded in it effectively turning it into sand paper.
Nor I. How dirty is your shop ;-) I have sled runners that are going on a decade old and are still as tight and slick as ever and I don't treat them with kid gloves.
It is a lot cleaner now that I got most of the junk out, I can actually see the edges of the floor, and sweep up to them
Several years ago, I put down an epoxy floor, like in an aircraft hanger--worked out great, but was going to be so slick, I was afraid that I would slip on it, so I embedded sand, then another layer, of course over that. It's a great floor, and just enough grip to matter.
The UHMW that I have is only, I think, 3/8", I would like a little thicker, but will likely just epoxy a layer together.
Does epoxy hold that stuff together, if I make in grippy with some scoring and maybe some holes, right?
David
Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)
First - I went looking - not sure what happened to the 3/4" UHMW - got used? Got misplaced? However, I do see 2 sheets of 1/4" x 12" x 24", though.
I know of no way to use adhesive on UHMW - mechanical fasteners only, has been my personal experience.
When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.
All of the members of the polyolefin family (polyethylene, polypropylene, and UHMW) are considered to be low surface energy plastics and as such are difficult to bond by other than mechanical means. Having said that, 3M has a series of pressure sensitive adhesives (psa) that is specifically designed to bond to low surface energy plastics. It is their 300LSE series and the rolls are 60 yards by whatever width you want them cut to. They are available in .002", .0035", and .005" thicknesses and can provide a full structural bond as long as both mating surfaces are completely whetted out.
Dave Anderson
Chester, NH