how to finish a walking stick?

[Cliff Cunningham]

Good afternoon, folks:

I am a brand-new member, and this is my first post/question here at Sawmill Creek.

I have a question about finishing some walking sticks.

I am making a few walking sticks. All have been stained. All have received some carving, or etching (using my Dremel).

So... now... they are done, and I'd like to seal them up.

What might you all recommend? I don't know the difference between shellacs, polyurethanes, or lacquers. These sticks will be ruggedly used (I assume). They will get wet & dirty (I hope). They will occasionally be left outside overnight. They will be exposed to harsh sunlight. And -- maybe, most importantly -- they will be held by sweaty hands.

What is my best-bet solution for final finishing?

All thoughts and opinions will be greatly appreciated.

Cliff, in Madison, Wisc, USA

[Prashun Patel]

Without getting into the weeds of the differences between readily-available finishing products, the easiest way to a durable finish for you will probably be Wipe on Polyurethane.

Minwax makes this product and you can find it at both big stores. It's thinned polyurethane. Because it's thinned, it's 'wipeable' and doesn't have to be brushed like the thicker stuff.

A single quart will finish probably 20 walking sticks.

Sand your sticks to your desired smoothness.
Pour a little in a clean, empty yogurt cup.
Dip 1/2 a sheet or 1/4 a sheet of a blue shop towel, and wipe it on.
Let it dry a few hours, and repeat. If it feels rough, before the next coat, sand it a little with 320 grit paper.

Stop the cycle when you like the sheen.

Nothing will prevent it from becoming beat up over time, but poly offers some reasonable water protection.

If you don't build it up to a thick glasslike finish, you'll be able in a year or two to gently sand and re apply a fresh coat of the WOP.

[Ted Calver]

Hi Cliff and welcome to the creek. I would finish as Prashun suggested. The thinner finish would be less likely to fill in and obscure any fine detail in your carvings. A thin coat of marine varnish might work too and would afford some UV protection to any coloring on the canes. Good luck.

[Cliff Cunningham]

Thank you, Prashun. That sounds great. I'll dig into it.

Cj

Without getting into the weeds of the differences between readily-available finishing products, the easiest way to a durable finish for you will probably be Wipe on Polyurethane.

Minwax makes this product and you can find it at both big stores. It's thinned polyurethane. Because it's thinned, it's 'wipeable' and doesn't have to be brushed like the thicker stuff.

A single quart will finish probably 20 walking sticks.

Sand your sticks to your desired smoothness.
Pour a little in a clean, empty yogurt cup.
Dip 1/2 a sheet or 1/4 a sheet of a blue shop towel, and wipe it on.
Let it dry a few hours, and repeat. If it feels rough, before the next coat, sand it a little with 320 grit paper.

Stop the cycle when you like the sheen.

Nothing will prevent it from becoming beat up over time, but poly offers some reasonable water protection.

If you don't build it up to a thick glasslike finish, you'll be able in a year or two to gently sand and re apply a fresh coat of the WOP.

[Cliff Cunningham]

Ted, thank you for the input. And, I did not know about the "marine varnish"... but, I do love the idea of protecting the coloring on the sticks.

This is all great info.

Cliff

[Prashun Patel]

Another product avaible at BB stores (still) is Watco Teak Oil. It also contains UV inhibiters. It has some measure of resin in it so it has a little of the protective ability of polyurethane, but it also contains oil, so it won't build up to a hard film. It's designed to be flooded on, then wiped off. You do this a couple times to seal the wood. Every year, you can wipe down the stick with mineral spirits and repeat.

If I used a walking stick, I'd want it to feel in my palm as good as it looks to my eye, so every step is a pleasure. An oil/varnish like Watco will achieve that with simplicity.

The only caveat is that it won't be as protective as polyurethane. However, if it means anything, tool handles are often finished with oil/varnish or even pure oil.