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Thread: Bowl steady rest

  1. #1
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    Mar 2015
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    Bowl steady rest

    Iím looking at the Oneway but my lathe has a gap bed.
    I donít think it will work when doing shallow bowls, I canít get the tool rest close enough with it on.
    Anyone run in to this?
    If so, how did you make it work?
    Thanks as always.
    Rick

  2. #2
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    I've been using a oneway for years. It is so adjustable that I'm sure it could be used as an offset stabilizer. The wheels do not require a 90 deg. set to work. I do crazy things with odd shaped vases frequently.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Robert,
    The problem is I have to set the banjo so close to the gap no room for the steady to bolt down.
    I do like that oneway though.

  4. #4
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    Rick, When I use my Oneway Steady rest for a bowl, it is usually fairly close to the banjo. If I am making a deeper vessel there is plenty of space between. It just depends on the project.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust M. Ruggiero View Post
    Rick, When I use my Oneway Steady rest for a bowl, it is usually fairly close to the banjo. If I am making a deeper vessel there is plenty of space between. It just depends on the project.
    Deep bowls are not the problem, it's shallow bowls.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Bailey View Post
    Deep bowls are not the problem, it's shallow bowls.
    My question is....why do you need a steady for a shallow bowl?

  7. #7
    Rick...I'm not really sure what lathe you have but I have been wanting the Oneway bowl steady for ages but since it seemed to be for a flat bed lathe I never thought it would work for me. My lathe has 2 chrome steel bars for the bed. Recently I discovered I had an extra clamp assembly for my tool rest because the lathe came with a long tool rest with 2 posts. Forgot about the extra one because I never use the long tool rest. Went and bought the bowl steady and the extra tool rest clamp works perfectly to hold it in place...wish I'd done it a long time ago...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wally Dickerman View Post
    My question is....why do you need a steady for a shallow bowl?
    Hi Wally,
    As the rim gets thinner I get vibration and chatter.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry McFadden View Post
    Rick...I'm not really sure what lathe you have but I have been wanting the Oneway bowl steady for ages but since it seemed to be for a flat bed lathe I never thought it would work for me. My lathe has 2 chrome steel bars for the bed. Recently I discovered I had an extra clamp assembly for my tool rest because the lathe came with a long tool rest with 2 posts. Forgot about the extra one because I never use the long tool rest. Went and bought the bowl steady and the extra tool rest clamp works perfectly to hold it in place...wish I'd done it a long time ago...
    That looks like set Barry,
    I try to post some pics and see if that helps explain what I'm try to say.

  10. #10
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    Lets see if this helps.



    PICT0387.jpgPICT0386.jpgPICT0388.jpg

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Bailey View Post
    I’m looking at the Oneway but my lathe has a gap bed.
    I don’t think it will work when doing shallow bowls, I can’t get the tool rest close enough with it on.
    Anyone run in to this?
    If so, how did you make it work?
    As the rim gets thinner I get vibration and chatter.
    There is no need for a steady. To take an extreme case, I have turned numerous thin plates (1/8" to 3/16" maximum thickness) , 12-16" in diameter from 1" thickness disks. I rarely use thicker stock. Just as with hollowing a deeper bowl, you have to work inward from the rim to final thickness in stages, not all the way from rim to center all at once. By the time you are perhaps a third of the radius toward the center, you should not return to the rim. Some vibration may develop, and the rim itself may deviate slightly from true as stresses release in the wood, but the ever diminishing central area you are working should behave.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Henrickson View Post
    There is no need for a steady. To take an extreme case, I have turned numerous thin plates (1/8" to 3/16" maximum thickness) , 12-16" in diameter from 1" thickness disks. I rarely use thicker stock. Just as with hollowing a deeper bowl, you have to work inward from the rim to final thickness in stages, not all the way from rim to center all at once. By the time you are perhaps a third of the radius toward the center, you should not return to the rim. Some vibration may develop, and the rim itself may deviate slightly from true as stresses release in the wood, but the ever diminishing central area you are working should behave.
    That is very good advice, I never thought of that.
    And sorry I forgot to mention I'm still new at this.
    Thanks Robert.

  13. #13
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    The above is good advice. But now that you are in a fix you might try this. A #2 taper shaft extension would fix this easily. You may be able to turn your wheels 90 deg. and ride them on the plate face and get by?? ( Craft supplies at $16.75 )

  14. #14
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    Lummi Island, WA
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    You could also look at look at a dogleg offset for your banjo. It will allow you to move the banjo about 3" towards the tailstock. Might allow enough room to mount the Bowl Steady. Robust offers one with a 1" toolpost.
    But, I've got to agree that if you turn in stages from the rim down - I usually complete the outside shaping and finish as you go down the inside. If a little vibration happens, generally a little gentle pressure from the left hand will dampen it easily.

  15. #15
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    The old 80grit gouge will remove wood with no vibration. I won't tell.

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