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Thread: Finishing Walnut Table

  1. #1

    Finishing Walnut Table

    Hi

    My second post, since the last helped me allot I thought why not ask again.
    I book matched my Walnut slabs and sanded it down to 400 smooth as a babies bottom. Before I apply PURE TUNG OIL and yes its 100% made sure of that I would like to know what to do with the cracks on the Walnut. I love them as a feature but they are share in some corners (See pics)? I can sand them but still I thought about a light epoxy film when I have completely finished (Tung/Shellac)!!!!

    Secondly and this is by your experience shall I fill the pored using a shellac/slurry method?

    Oh please don't recommend any other products like Waterlux as I am in Iran and I had to ship in the Tung oil from the UK..... Unfortunately my people paint, yes paint walnut....lol

    People were looking at me strangely when I put the Butterfly keys in, used a CNC machine as I couldn't get any one to do it (I KNOW, I KNOW but I didn't have a year to learn to put them in)....
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  2. #2
    Gven your information, i. Personally would not bother filling with shellac.

    i. Would sand to 600 and proceed to tung oil. Flood it on, wipe it all off. repeat.

  3. #3
    Thanks Prashun. And the cracks I've sanded but they can catch clothes and fabric so what would you recommend for that !!!!

  4. #4
    I agree w/ Prashun. The only thing I might change is changing the tung oil to Watco Dark Walnut, which has some color to it. Walnut turns lighter over the years and can look quite light. The Watco Dark Walnut will reduce the tendency for the walnut to become almost bleached looking.

  5. #5
    If you are concerned with the cracks then fill them with epoxy before the tung oil. If you have some access to oil based varnish you can mix that with the tung oil for a slightly more protective finish than just tung oil.

  6. #6

    Tung oil applied

    Thanks everyone after a few days sanding I applied and very happy with it. Am going away for a week and will probably apply another coat, then shellac.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    N Illinois
    Posts
    4,602
    Beautiful wood!!! agree with oil followed by shellac padded on..
    Jerry

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,845
    I also agree with Prashun...

    Those "defects" are part of the wonderful character of the slabs and I wouldn't want to compromise that by filling them.

    Please post photos of the finished work in the Woodworking Projects forum once it's compete!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    I will do probably by the end of the week but I am fabricating the legs and after 100s of design I found the a simple cross made with Iron and sprayed in white was the best looking option. But how would you recommend attching the legs worrying about the wood cracking in varying temp.

    So 2 cross legs which is welded to a rectangle frame which the slab will sit on.

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