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Thread: Question: Freud blade upgrade on SawStop

  1. #16
    Yeah, I think I may just be attributing the vibration to the louder sound of the blade running. I just balanced a nickle and cut a 2" thick piece of white oak and the nickle never moved. I may just be paranoid because I've never sunk this much money into a tool for hobby use. I just want everything to be right.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Toronto Ontario
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    11,248
    Hi, I would make sure that the blade is mounted properly without a piece of sawdust in the flange for example.

    Combination blades are OK, however a true 24 tooth rip blade is an enormous improvement when ripping.

    Likewise an 80 tooth ATB blade is great for crosscutting.

    I suggest that you avoid buying lower end blades, such as you'll get at HD etc and buy a blade frome a saw maker in the USA.

    I normally purchase FS Tools blades, they're available in the USA as well as other good blades from other suppliers. Perhaps some of the guys in your state could chime in.

    Avoid buying thin kerf blades.

    A good blade is a lifetime investment for a hobby user...................Regards, Rod.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Northern UT
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    762
    I picked up that exact same saw this past week. I changed blades on it after reading your initial post to the blade I normally use. It is labeled Superior, but that is, I think the company that imports them from Germany. I put on a new version of the blade and it runs significantly quieter than the Sawstop blade.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casey Reames View Post
    Yeah, I think I may just be attributing the vibration to the louder sound of the blade running. I just balanced a nickle and cut a 2" thick piece of white oak and the nickle never moved. I may just be paranoid because I've never sunk this much money into a tool for hobby use. I just want everything to be right.
    Just to add some more comfort, I have 30, 40, 50, 55, 60 and 80 tooth blades that I change throughout a project depending what I am doing. They all have a different "song" to sing when you fire up the saw. The dado stack in a new ZCI? Now that's a different song altogether. Almost sounds like a low-grade tornado warning .
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #20
    What is the tooth count on the quieter blade? Is it also a 40 tooth?

  6. #21
    I typically do ripping. Does the 30 tooth blade make a clean rip cut? Like, is the cut edge gluable?

  7. #22
    Well, I really appreciate all the help and all the replies. What a great community. I'm going to run a few more tests and decide what to do. I grabbed a 2x4 cut off and ripped some 1" strips and every one had burn marks on them somewhere. My SS blade never burned a piece of wood.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kent Adams View Post
    Can you tell me what you mean by "Carbide Processors". I have a WWII and I thought the teeth were welded carbide?
    I believe the reference is to http://www.carbideprocessors.com/Car...st-Saw-Blades/

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Northern UT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casey Reames View Post
    What is the tooth count on the quieter blade? Is it also a 40 tooth?
    It was a 24 tooth rip blade. I just changed it out for an 80 tooth blade and that was incredibly quiet. I could tell the saw was running, but almost no vibration.

  10. #25
    I ended up returning the blade. The guy at Woodcraft told me that for the cutting I predominately do, it was a poor choice of blade anyway. He recommended the glue line rip blade. 30 tooth. I put it on and that baby just cruises. No vibration, super smooth and cuts like a dream. Thanks to everyone again for their help and advise.

  11. #26
    Take the new blade out and inspect it.
    - Chipped tooth? Uneven teeth?
    - Lay it flat, does it rock? Flip over and check again.
    - Check the mounting face of the blade is clean, w no burrs or excess coating.

    install the blade, make sure the mounting surfaces are clean.
    Clamp a scale or similar straight edge perpendicular to the face of the blade. Gap it from one of the teeth using a feeler blade and rotate the blade 180. There should be no measurable change in the gap. This proves out the blade and the spindle.
    Repeat this along the axis of the blade. Rotate the blade to verify the teeth are ground to the same diameter.

    The last step involves measuring how parallel the fence is to the blade. Search "Table Saw set-up alignment" in the Saw Mill Creek search engine. I like the Woodpeckers or TS-Aligner tools. Or a screw and a wood bar.
    This measurement should be repeated as needed to verify that your machine is still setup correctly.

    I have the 3HP model and love it. Different blade sing differently. None of my blades cause measurable table vibration.
    Depending on the wood, I get burning with every type of saw blade. All I can do is make sure my tools are aligned.

    You can get an app for either the iphone or Android that measures acceleration and displays the result. Acceleration is related to vibration.
    I think I just let the OCD side of me loose.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
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    5,548
    I have the same saw, and recently put a Freud melamine blade on it. Slightly different size, had to readjust the gap, works fine. Plus 1 on the Freud 24 tooth rip blade, they are great.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    Doesn't Saw Stop include the little plastic gauge with the magnet in it anymore?

    Attachment 313721

    I use mine whenever I change blades. Like David said, I can take a second to check for the $60 it might cost me
    Dang, I never got one of those. should I feel left out?
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casey Reames View Post
    Has as anyone ever used the truing blade? The steel disk for making sure the miter slots are square with the blade? I'm having a suspicion that mine a few thousandths off. Now I'm not saying I'm a perfectionist....I just want everything to be perfect.

    Thanks for for the replies guys.
    I be a perfectionist also-for all the good it does. Hair splitter.

    I use these:

    DSCN0465.JPG

    There is still ~3K runout on the blade in different heights and tilt angles. Know what? I don't care. We are talking about wood, not tool and die making here.

    Too much trouble. Blade probably has that much runout in it, factor in vibration, and operator error, the minute inaccuracy of the tool is not significant.
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

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