Hammer K3 Winner - What I've learned in the last 6 months

[scott vroom]

I replaced an old Grizzly G0690 with the K3 49" slider. I erred in not getting the optional scoring unit: the height difference between the slider and the cast iron tables is causing splintering when cutting plywood, much more so on the thinner stock due to vibration. Painter's tape helps but slows me down when making multiple cuts on a large project. Looks like Santa may be delivering a $448 scoring unit soon

[elliot worrall]

Of course. Dumb question sorry. I had just been looking at the felder F+F style system that clamps things to the slider.
http://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US...ystem-set.html

Those suggestions (and confirmation) are fantastic thanks. Straight onto the shopping list.

[Derek Cohen]

As many are aware, the F&F jig sits against the rear crosscut fence. However, unless the K3 comes with a outrigger, the crosscut fence is at the other end of the slider. I was considering moving the fence, as Chris had done.

In the end I decided to keep the crosscut fence at the near side, where it can be used for mitres. That meant that the F&F jig would need to be attached without the support of a fence. The solution I came up with is quick to set up and retains its settings.





I used the Incra fences, as Chris had. In for a penny … I rationalised that it will be for the long term

Note the black non-slip tape on the faces.


The rear connection is really easy to attach and remove …





There are two connections …





On the t-slot (this has a depth stop for set up) ...








Hope that this helps others without the outrigger.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[elliot worrall]

I've got some serious F+F envy now Derek!

How do you like the Wixey digital scale btw? Was it easy to set up?

[Jim Becker]

Great solution, Derek!!!

[Chris Parks]

Nice job Derek. If I was to do it again I would set the front block of the jig square and drill two small holes in the table that two pins could be pushed into. If the jig needed to be removed when it is put back on the table put the pins in and push it against them for instant repeatable square alignment. After locking it in position they could be removed. If the jig was made of aluminium the jig block could have the pins as part of the base plate and just drop them into the holes for alignment. The other possibility this presents is using two holes a bar or stop could drop into the holes for the jig to push against and it could stay in position and the front block would not need locking down.

[Rod Sheridan]

If the piece I am cutting is small, the F&F jig just floats, I simply put one hand on one and the other hand on the other piece.

If I need to lock it in place I just put the edging shoe on the slider, very fast and it's out of the way.......Rod.

[Derek Cohen]

I've got some serious F+F envy now Derek!

How do you like the Wixey digital scale btw? Was it easy to set up?

Hi Elliot

The Wixey is a survivor from my previous table saw. It has been reliable and certainly makes it easier to see measurements. Connecting it up was a head scratcher, but in the end (again with Chris' advice), it went on without a hitch. I don't have any detailed photos. This is the only one. You can make out L brackets if you squint ...



Perhaps Chris will post the ones he sent me.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Nice job Derek. If I was to do it again I would set the front block of the jig square and drill two small holes in the table that two pins could be pushed into. If the jig needed to be removed when it is put back on the table put the pins in and push it against them for instant repeatable square alignment. After locking it in position they could be removed. If the jig was made of aluminium the jig block could have the pins as part of the base plate and just drop them into the holes for alignment. The other possibility this presents is using two holes a bar or stop could drop into the holes for the jig to push against and it could stay in position and the front block would not need locking down.

Hi Chris

I already have a mod in mind for my F&F rear fence, which sounds essentially the same as your idea. Basically, I want a depth stop similar to the edging shoe. This will enable the fence to go on-and-off quickly and accurately. I see this replacing the main cross cut fence for many tasks, and therefore it needs to be squared to the blade for accuracy when cross cutting.

The answer is simple: add an L-shaped metal bracket to the wooden base at the blade side (there is already a stop on the other side of the base). Elongate the attachment holes to add fine adjustment when squaring against the saw blade.

A short cross cut fence works for me as I only build furniture in solid wood (although I am now geared back up to finish off a few large - solid wood - panels in the kitchen)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Ray Gutnick]

Just wondering what would be the best features/accessories to add to the basic K3 Winner? I know everyone has different requirements, so I'm just looking to see if there is any consensus for "must have" items (some of which I am guessing need to be chosen at the time of ordering the saw). I'm not asking about the size of the slider, but more of what extras that people have added on that are also "winners"
Admittedly, part of this question is to help me figure out a budget for the saw.

Thanks in advance

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Ray, for myself a slider would need scoring and dado capability.

Anything else can be added later to the Hammer K3 or B3.

For example I used my B3 for a couple of years before adding the outrigger to it............Regards, Rod.

[Chris Parks]

For me it is the fine adjustment rip fence and after you get the saw add a Digital fence such as a Wixey to make full use of the fine adjuster. As Rod said anything can be added later for the same cost so you can try before you buy. I did the same as Rod and added the outrigger later and doing that has some advantages as you finish up with long and short cross cut fences and the flexibility of being able to have those fences at the front or rear and having a cross cut fence without the outrigger on the saw. You also get extra small supports if you don't order the outrigger as well. Using a scoring blade restricts the main blade to 10" so it is best to be aware of that.

[Jesse Brown]

I've had a B3 for about a month, and I really appreciate the outrigger, scoring blade, outfeed extension, and mobility kit. The first thing I made was a Fritz and Franz jig with some adjustable stops, and I use the heck out of it. I ended up with the short crosscut setup as well, and even though I don't use it much, the extra adjustable stop is nice to have.

On the other hand, I have the so-called "professional" rip fence, and I discovered that I rarely use it except as an occasional bump stop. I also don't feel like I need the 48" rip capacity, and I'm ambivalent about the eccentric clamp.

[Chris Parks]

Jesse, can you post a photo of you F&F jig? My bump stop is only as long as the rip fence head, I bought a full length and cut it up and sold the short lengths to other K3 owners. For a short slider I doubt a clamp is necessary, certainly I have never used one but everyone sees the problem differently.

[Jesse Brown]

Not much to look at, but it works great.

IMG_7763.jpg