Hammer K3 Winner - What I've learned in the last 6 months

[Chris Parks]

As long as the material is long enough I tend to measure from the rip fence head and use a plain F&F jig though I did make one the same as Andy using Incra fences and flip stops.

[Chris Parks]

Hi Chris

I already have a mod in mind for my F&F rear fence, which sounds essentially the same as your idea. Basically, I want a depth stop similar to the edging shoe. This will enable the fence to go on-and-off quickly and accurately. I see this replacing the main cross cut fence for many tasks, and therefore it needs to be squared to the blade for accuracy when cross cutting.

The answer is simple: add an L-shaped metal bracket to the wooden base at the blade side (there is already a stop on the other side of the base). Elongate the attachment holes to add fine adjustment when squaring against the saw blade.

A short cross cut fence works for me as I only build furniture in solid wood (although I am now geared back up to finish off a few large - solid wood - panels in the kitchen)

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, did you ever do this?

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, did you ever do this?

This? ...





I have simplified the F&F since then.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rod Sheridan]

I've had a B3 for about a month, and I really appreciate the outrigger, scoring blade, outfeed extension, and mobility kit. The first thing I made was a Fritz and Franz jig with some adjustable stops, and I use the heck out of it. I ended up with the short crosscut setup as well, and even though I don't use it much, the extra adjustable stop is nice to have.

On the other hand, I have the so-called "professional" rip fence, and I discovered that I rarely use it except as an occasional bump stop. I also don't feel like I need the 48" rip capacity, and I'm ambivalent about the eccentric clamp.

Hi Jesse, I ordered mine with the smaller rip capacity, and the full table.

I use the eccentric clamp a lot on the shaper for coping and cutting tenons..........Regards, Rod.

[Jim Becker]

Not much to look at, but it works great.

Attachment 406743

Mine is "very similar"...

[Chris Parks]

My first one was two bits of MDF, no handle and no integral fence and I used that for about two years.

[Rod Sheridan]

Most F&F jigs are far snazzier than mine................Rod.
Cutting small pieces.jpg

[David Stone (CT)]

To the question of what are the best additions to the basic K3 saw. The one thing I'd rate an absolute must-have is a proper zero-clearance table insert. The stock one has a ridiculously big gap that not only invites chipout but is borderline hazardous since narrow-ish offcuts are apt to get yanked down into the works and dust chute at high speed, which can a little startling (not to mention, a hassle to fish out). I have a shopmade phenolic zero clearance insert and only use the factory one for bevel cuts.

IMO, some kind of rugged eccentric clamp with a good reach is also a necessity to have on hand for certain crosscut operations and fixtures. There are various kinds of simpler/lighter/cheaper hold downs that can work much of the time and the clever jigs people are showing in this thread are great. But especially if you use the fence in the leading position on the table and have the workpiece behind, or are making a cut with the crosscut fence other that at 90% to the blade, there are going to be some situations where it's not safe to hold the piece with your hands and the F&F jig is not applicable. I don't know what clamp, if any, comes standard now, but back in the day the Hammer branded eccentric clamp was a little rudimentary. It worked but was a bit fussy and clunky. I ended up buying the Felder one, which is easier to set (albeit super heavy).

Finally, I know you said you're not asking about the size of the slider, but some food for thought anyway. I have the 79 inch table and outrigger, which I think is the best all around combo, in terms of having enough travel to make longish rip type cuts and crosscut wider panels, especially with the fence angled (the effective capacity is greatly reduced when the fence is at 45), and enough outboard support to deal easily with heavy panels or long boards. Another advantage vs. the shorter table--one that I have seldom seen mentioned--is that when the sliding table is locked for ripping using the rip fence, the 79 inch table has enough length projecting outward past the blade to serves as an effective outfield table. This is important since the nature of sliding table saws is that you can't locate a conventional fixed outfield table to the left to the blade because that's where the slider needs free space to roam.

[Howard Dean]

Hi Mike,

I'm curious as to what else you have learned since your purchase. I am in the market for a table saw and am considering a Hammer K3. One of my main concerns is repeatable, fast and accurate rip cuts. Some use the rip fence (either with the edge of the board resting on the slightly elevated slider or just short of it); some use a fritz and franz jig (but how do you ensure consistent width without fiddling?); and some use a parallel guide system. What is you experience to date?

Howard

[Rod Sheridan]

I’m not Mike however I’ve had a B3 for 12 years, I use the rip fence, with a Fritz und Franz if the piece is small, for safety reasons.

The 4 function rip fence is great, improves safety when ripping solid wood as it can be set to end at the arbour or closer to the infeed of the blade if desired…..Rod

[Howard Dean]

Many thanks Rod. Did you build your own F&F?

[Jim Becker]

Many thanks Rod. Did you build your own F&F?

Pretty much everyone does. There are some great threads here at SMC on various versions of the F&F and other fixtures for sliders.

[Howard Dean]

Thank you Jim.

[Jim Becker]

Howard, you'll find that a slider is really adaptable to a lot of very kewel fixturing that combined with the way the wagon moves past the blade, brings big safety and really great cut quality. No hands are involved in holding the material which means greatly reduced blade marking, etc. I'm really finding it painful to be temporarily using a cabinet saw until I can get a new shop building up. I got so used to the overall utility of the slider that I miss it dearly!

There's a relatively new thread in Workshops right now by Kevin J that shows a very nice adaptation of some angle cutting fixtures, BTW.

[Howard Dean]

Many thanks Jim. This is certainly a learning process. The sales rep is putting together a couple of quotes for me — one for the 48x48 and one for the 79x48. As of today I’m leaning towards the latter. There have been too many times I’ve opted for the smaller tool, thinking I could get by with it and save some money. But I usually regret it later. Life is short.