It doesn't have the silky feeling of the Mitutoyo,but you don't notice". Sounds like you DID notice!!!
Member
It doesn't have the silky feeling of the Mitutoyo,but you don't notice". Sounds like you DID notice!!!
Member
Errm, well… yes George. Just not the $600 or whatever a Mitutoyo in that size would cost worth of notice i guess.
There seem to be some large size electronic models about at reasonable money too, i never got to check one out...
Contributor
As with George when I worked in the machine shop we almost never used digital calipers, but rather used micrometers for everything. So I have one in my shop now for tool related purpose, the digital calipers seem quite fine for woodworking.
I have an iGaging from Lee Valley that works well. I am transferring measurements using the same gauge, so slight inconsistency compared to absolute measurements is not so important, this was a practice I picked up at the machine shop as well, we always used the same gauge to measure parts that were going to work as an assembly or use one gauge as the standard. Not super critical for woodwork, but good practice is good practice.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Contributor
When I worked in a print shop we would do this with layouts and the tape measures or yardsticks we used. They all had disagreements at some point or another.I am transferring measurements using the same gauge, so slight inconsistency compared to absolute measurements is not so important, this was a practice I picked up at the machine shop as well, we always used the same gauge to measure parts that were going to work as an assembly or use one gauge as the standard. Not super critical for woodwork, but good practice is good practice.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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Digital calipers make great Imperial to metric converters, and vice-versa. Try to do that on a dial caliper.
Member
You mean like this? http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-...PK5MNYVGXF647BOriginally Posted by Lee Reep
Digital calipers make great Imperial to metric converters, and vice-versa. Try to do that on a dial caliper.
Contributor
I use mechanical both mechanical calipers (mostly for turning) and dial or vernier for all other tight tolerance work, I have a 1" micrometer that sees little and specific use.
Like George, I dislike the digital because they all seem to go through batteries too quickly, and I never seem to have a spare around. When I buy most tools, I don't want a recurring cost to allow it to function.
Trevor Walsh
TWDesignShop
Contributor
So Mike Holbrook, why not get both the Dial and Digital Callipers and see which one you prefer? Then sell off the other or keep it as a spare. Some of the digitals eat batteries like there's no tomorrow and then some don't. I guess you could invest in some of the rechargeable LIR2032s and then a suitable charger but it all depends on how quickly you go through batteries.
"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
Member
I would be careful getting this item from Lee Valley. Notice how whenever an item is Made in China their website doesn't tell you the brand name? I wonder if they are just some locally made knock-offs.
Contributor
That hasn't been my experience. I think they just prefer to mention Brands that they have official distribution rights with. If you email customer services and ask, they will confirm the OEM part number and Brand so you can verify.
"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
Contributor
I'm in the mechanical camp. I like to be able to see exactly where the reading is. With a digital, the result is rounded.
I also like that I don't have to depend on a battery.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Contributor
My $46 iGaging rounds up to the next ten thousands of an inch (1/10000). I really hate that, puts all my work out.
"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
Contributor
And if you're working to ten thousands of an inch, that's good. But I mostly work in units that I can see on a rule, which is about a sixteenth. I use a fractional caliper so I like to be able to see that something is, for example, a bit shy of 3/16, or a fat 3/16. If I set a digital to read fractions, and set it for sixteenths, I lose the ability to see the difference.
Mike
[I don't want to set the caliper to 128th, for example, and then have to try to convert those readings into something I can see on a rule.]
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Member
Mike, this is exactly what I'm struggling with while deciding on what calliper to buy. I have some no-name digital calliper that has served me well enough, but I keep wishing for fractions. On the other hand, digital fractions are a pain because of the issue you mention - it is hard to tell if you are above or below a fraction, and if you are aiming for 3/16 and your digital caliper tells you that you are at 23/128 can you quickly tell me if you are above or below your target?
I am reluctant to buy $30-40 Chinese dial calliper, because of hit-and-miss nature of those products, but don't want to spend $100 for Starrett without being sure that Starrett is really good, and iGaging or similar is not quite good enough. Decisions, decisions...
(edit: Starrett dial caliper is also made in China)
Last edited by Marko Milisavljevic; 03-29-2015 at 5:27 PM.
Contributor
Marko, I bought a Starrett fractional some years ago and it's been a good tool. You might look on eBay and see if you can find one - if you're not excited about the one they're selling now.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
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