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Thread: Oops! Wood is too small for the chuck.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Oops! Wood is too small for the chuck.

    I am about to make a whole lot of traveling communion sets. These include small chalices that can be made from 8/4 stock. The problem is, after buying the 8/4 stock, I realized I have 50mm (just under 2") jaws on my Nova G3 chuck. Too big for 1.75" wide stock.

    What is the lowest cost solution? Could I glue extra wood on the base to make a tenon over 2"? What size jaws do I need if I buy new jaws? I don't want to spend between $140 and $200 on a new chuck and jaws.

    Any other suggestions?
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  2. #2
    yes, glue enough to have a normal tendon where the jaws have wood to rest on and protection buffer to keep your tools off chuck

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Nova comes with 50mm jaws. Packard lists the 35mm Jaws for $51. You can make a glue block, but be aware that you would be doing an endgrain glue up which is not great. Check out Capt Eddie's video he has some good tips.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  4. Brian, what type chuck do you use? If you have a nova chuck this will work:

    http://www.novatoolsusa.com/images/1...933603629.jpeg

    a 35mm [1.35"] spigot jaw set......they also have step jaws that will hold several sizes.

    looks like Thom and I were typing at the same time!
    Last edited by Roger Chandler; 03-24-2015 at 5:53 PM.
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  5. #5
    As has been said, a second set of jaws is the cheap and easy answer (potentially even cheaper on Amazon). It is also the safer answer. The 35 mm SPIGOT CHUCK jaws will hold far better than the 50 mm would. I have a set of the 35 mm spigot chuck jaws and frequently use them with a G3. No need to buy another chuck (though many turners do seem to feel that every set of jaws deserves its own chuck!). Interchangeable jaws are a wonderful thing -- I have 6-8 different sets that I use on my (several, I confess) Nova chucks. Match the jaws to the task.

    End-grain gluing would not be a good idea.

  6. #6
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    I would definitely not do end grain gluing. If I did add wood with glue it would be on the sides of the last inch of the base so I could turn a tenon the right size for these jaws.I would be cutting the stock 2-1/4" wide, then building up the other two faces 1/4" each so I would have a 2-1/4" base to turn into a tenon.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  7. #7
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    Ordered the 35mm Spigot jaws

    Thank you all. I ordered the 35mm Spigot Jaws through Amazon. Until they come I will start on the plates (AKA "patens").
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  8. #8
    Sounds like a wise choice. Looking forward to some finished pics someday.

    Red
    RED

  9. #9
    you could use the oneway woodworm screw that comes with the oneway stronghold chuck.....if you have enough length on the 8x4, I believe wally showed that with a small diameter vase a while back........I have a friend that all he uses are glue blocks, I do not normally

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    I would have made one of those chucks rather than get the jaws, however I have my Oneway jaws that clamp down to 6mm/1/4” so no need for me

    A block held in your chuck and turned into this shape with slots, and an inner ridge to hold the piece against and a clamp to squeeze it tight.

    here shown how to make one to hold rings,
    wooden springjaw chuck.jpg

    but you can use it like in this manner with a hose clamp
    spring jaw chuck.jpg
    Have fun and take care

  11. #11
    You have already ordered the jaws, so my comments won't help. However, with 1.75" stock, you could easily turn a 2" tenon that would not be fully round, but I would think sufficient to hold the stock for the small turning you are doing.

  12. #12
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    I think I am confused. Can't the wood be mounted inside the 2" jaws with the corners sticking out and clamped with the corners. Crude but doable?

  13. #13
    You can do an end grain glue up with a waste block, but you have to do a mortice on the waste block and a tenon on the piece. 1/8 inch is ample. That being said, much easier to do the extra set of jaws.

    robo hippy

  14. #14
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    Charlie, I had not thought about the worm screw for end grain.

    OK, Leo, now that one is just fascinating.

    Yes, Robert, I could do this with the corners sticking through. The diagonal is just under 2.5" (according to my figurin'). I did not know if that was enough for stability.

    John, I had not thought about just turning a partially round tenon. That way there would be a little bit of shoulder support.
    Last edited by Brian Kent; 03-25-2015 at 12:23 PM.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    I think you did good ordering the spigot jaws given the length of the item so that you can sink and 1" of wood into the jaws. Five, six, or more inches would be a long way out for the standard 50mm with a short tenon.
    To use the 50mm jaws I would turn a ring maybe 3/8" thick with the size opening you want, turn the exterior about 2", then cut a kerf in your ring to allow for contraction. Place you spacer inside the 50mm jaws, tightening will close the kerf and grip your projects tenon.
    The ones I saw made were from a plastic cutting board about 1/2" thick but a person could use a good hardwood.
    I assume your material is already planned down, the 50mm close down to 1.65" per Nova (inside not outside) so you would only have 1/10 for compression if it is 1.75".
    https://www.teknatool.com/products/C...0(mm)Sep06.pdf
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