Tormek/stone blending

[David Ragan]

My next lingering question-I have both great set ups for water stones, and the Tormek.

Is there anyone who just uses exclusively the Tormek?

I mean, when I have used Tormek in the past, I thought, geez, this here Tormek is all I need.....

But, man, you can't beat the superb edge with all those fine Shaptons, etc.

And-if you go with just the Tormek, how about getting the other wheel to get the finer grind (I already use the grading stone)? Then, if one really must overdo it, just get a second Tormek so the other wheel is set up all the time. Ha ha ha.

So, what I suppose I might hear is that Tormek used if need to reestablish a bevel, then go with the waterstones ongoing? Even though you have a hollow-ground base, then use flat waterstones, the edge will hold(?)

[Andrew Pitonyak]

The question becomes, what will be the fastest... Assuming that I already have a hollow grind, it is very fast for me to spritz a bit of water on my water stones and then free hand them and get back to work. It takes a bit of time to put things into the holder and then adjust it so that it is where I want it.

Now, if I simply did my touch-up mostly free hand using the leather wheel, that would be pretty fast. I would like one of those finer stones, but I have not use one. So, I would be more inclined to do that if I owned two Tormek machines so that I could keep one at a courser grind, and then go fine. I don't think that you can mount two stones on a Tormek... can you? And the time to swap the stones seems prohibitive.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I do not use the Tormek exclusively. I have Shaptons, Choseras, Nortons, and DMT diamond stones. I finally got a Tormek when I started teaching and also sharpening planer blades. I also got the 4000 grit waterstone wheel and the standard one. Beware that the 4000 chips easily. Guess how I know!!! I was sharpening a knife and it dug in and took a nick out. The 4000 stone leaves a very good finish, but not as good as I can get with a waterstone, and the Tormek is such a pain to set up. Now I mainly use it for gouges, planer blades (the electric kind), kitchen knives, machetes, and scissors. The good kitchen knives I sharpen on the waterstones. The lesser ones I use the Tormek.

[Thomas Schneider]

First let me start by saying I'm in the "sharp enough" category. My Tormek is all I use. I started with the scary sharp method but didn't like the constant cost of buying sandpaper. Then moved on to waterstones (Shaptons) and got great results but soon tired of the mess and the flattening (I don't have room for a dedicated sharpening station) I then happened across a great deal on a Tormek three years ago, and love it! Does it have it's draw backs? sure, I think every method does. but for me it's quick, especially if what I'm using just needs a touch-up on the honing wheel. I'll be the first to admit that no one has ever accused me of being a master craftsman but it ain't the sharpening that's holding me back.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

First let me start by saying I'm in the "sharp enough" category. My Tormek is all I use. I started with the scary sharp method but didn't like the constant cost of buying sandpaper. Then moved on to waterstones (Shaptons) and got great results but soon tired of the mess and the flattening (I don't have room for a dedicated sharpening station) I then happened across a great deal on a Tormek three years ago, and love it! Does it have it's draw backs? sure, I think every method does. but for me it's quick, especially if what I'm using just needs a touch-up on the honing wheel. I'll be the first to admit that no one has ever accused me of being a master craftsman but it ain't the sharpening that's holding me back.

No shame in just using the Tormek, your tools can be made plenty sharp using just the Tormek. I was never able to flatten the backs of things on the Tormek, but I have seen it done in person, but you cannot really choose how fine when you do it (on the side of the stone).

[Thomas Schneider]

No shame in just using the Tormek, your tools can be made plenty sharp using just the Tormek. I was never able to flatten the backs of things on the Tormek, but I have seen it done in person, but you cannot really choose how fine when you do it (on the side of the stone).

Absolutely true! I still use sandpaper and or my Shaptons for flattening the backs.

[Greg Portland]

My next lingering question-I have both great set ups for water stones, and the Tormek.

Is there anyone who just uses exclusively the Tormek?

I mean, when I have used Tormek in the past, I thought, geez, this here Tormek is all I need.....

But, man, you can't beat the superb edge with all those fine Shaptons, etc.

And-if you go with just the Tormek, how about getting the other wheel to get the finer grind (I already use the grading stone)? Then, if one really must overdo it, just get a second Tormek so the other wheel is set up all the time. Ha ha ha.

So, what I suppose I might hear is that Tormek used if need to reestablish a bevel, then go with the waterstones ongoing? Even though you have a hollow-ground base, then use flat waterstones, the edge will hold(?)

I have a Tormek. Like any sharpening system there is a learning curve. For tools that are readily jig-able to an exact angle (lathe tools, etc.) I think there is an advantage to using a wheel/jig style system (in terms of speed). For chisels and plane blades I prefer a large flat stone where I can feel the bevel. For knives I use the Spyderco system which I feel is easier than the Tormek + knife jigs. I use a slow speed grinder to re-establish primary bevels but the Tormek would also work well.

As you can see, I've experimented with a bunch of systems but it ultimately boils down to technique & methods of work. Hopefully you can learn that lesson earlier than I did

[Bob Glenn]

I have the Tormek, but my take on the machine is that it is only for grinding a bevel unless you have the fine stone. I've used the grader stone after grinding the primary bevel to get to a finer grind, then go to the leather stropping wheel with diamond paste, however, unless I've doing something wrong, it takes too long to polish out the grinder marks.

So, my current practice is to establish the primary bevel, if needed, then go to silicone carbide sand paper on glass starting at 220 or 320 and take it in stages down to 1500. Depending on the tool, I may go to a strop, however, I'm finding a flat piece of leather is a lot quicker than setting up on Tormek stropping wheel.

I got water stones, but I'm not happy with results or the mess.