Which Mortiser

[Stew Hagerty]

Folks Stew set up the parameters between two choices, not two choices and whatever you own, want or advise. Is is that difficult to stay in those two parameters?

Rich,

THANK YOU!!!!

Nail on the head! Except for missing the Festool/loose tenon exchange I thought that I was being very specific.
I typically don't mind if a thread branches a bit here and there, as long as it weaves back to the original track (or at least close to it).
And Festool... Everybody has their own thing. And Festool is is one of those things that people are passionate about. As for the Domino, If I were looking at them seriously, I would be looking at the XL because the original model produces mortises that are too small for me.
Ok, now I do collect tools. My passion is for Woodpeckers tools. Granted they are expensive, but they made in the USA and I don't just collect them... I use them.

[Art Mann]

My comment won't help your decision but I want to add a little bit to Ken's post. I had the cone shaped sharpener he recommended and it works very well. If you have a drill press, you can chuck the cone sharpener and use it as a power sharpener that works very well and very fast. Just use your slowest speed and a light touch. I had a Steel City hollow chisel mortiser, which isn't as nice as the Powermatic you are looking at, and sharp bits made all the difference in the world.

[Stew Hagerty]

Stew....regardless of which one you decide on......I can't express how important sharp bits and chisels are!

I use two sharpening tools. One from Woodcraft http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/144...ening-KIt.aspx . This cuts a new edge on the inside of the chisel.

Then I hone the inside edge of the chisel with this tool from Rockler http://www.rockler.com/3-piece-morti...sharpening-set .

Then I flatten/sharpen/knock off the burr on all 4 sides of the mortiser chisel like you would the back of a bench chisel. For that I use a diamond card.

Then I sharpen the cutting edge of the bit using a jeweler's file and a diamond card hone.

With sharpened bit and chisel, I dearly enjoy using my mortiser. Sharp tools are the key!

Ken and the others that mentioned sharp chisels. You are absolutely correct. I am actually a bit of a fanatic about sharp tools.
In fact neither one of these models comes with chisels. That is going to be the subject of my next my next thread.

[Jim Dwight]

I have a little Jet benchtop mortiser. I made nicer looking mortises with a plunge router but I don't like doing this with a router. Too much noise and sometimes smoke. I have an upcut spiral bit, a couple actually, but I still don't like doing it this way. The mortises made by my Jet are not as smooth sided but work just fine. It only has a 1/2 hp motor and I can stall it if I feed the 1/2 chisel too quickly (it's largest) but it works fine as long as I do my part. The only thing that I don't like too much is the difficulty in getting the chisel out when I make the first cut. It goes better if I raise and lower the bit as I go. But sometimes still it gets stuck. If either of the models you are considering has a good built in way of clamping the work in place, that is the one I would get.

The stones to sharpen the chisels are not terribly expensive and are a good idea to get too. It removes an excuse, at least, for not sharpening when required.

[Alan Lilly]

Between those 2... I would pay the extra and get the Powermatic. My biggest concerns would be the accuracy of the chuck and the quality of the clamping table. I have the cheaper Rikon mortiser and the XY table is awesome, but the chuck doesn't tighten the bit consistently. If you can see either machine in person... or ask an owner here ... check the quality of the chuck and table clamp. A cheap chuck will give inconsistent centering and the bit will wobble inside the chisel and cause extra heat and impede chip extraction. Also, I agree with Ken... sharp chisels are a must, but don't forget to also polish the inside of the chisel with fine sandpaper wrapped on a dowel.... especially if you have less expensive chisels. Because the inside of cheap chisels are usually poorly machined and that will also cause chips to jam up and cause trouble. I'm not recommending the Rikon, but my recent video review of the Rikon mortiser may provide insight...

The Powermatic is definitely worth the extra money IMHO.

[Jerry Olexa]

Of those 2, Powermatic...But also include Delta and Jet for hobbyist use....

[Clay Fails]

I have the Powermatic model you listed. It works as advertised, and i have made many perfectly fine mortises using it. I've also used a plunge router with either the Mortise Pal or hand made jigs, and I also have the Festool Domino. The advantage of the mortiser is that the mortises are squared off, and you don't have to round over the tenons like you do with a router approach. All these methods work if you observe basic woodworking skills, and creep up on the tenon fits. To me that's the critical part. Sizing the tenons to fit correctly in the mortises, however they're made.

[Shawn Pixley]

When I was considering mine, I ended up with the Powermatic. Everything I have read has had it as the superior model for benchtop units. I would buy it again.

[John Gulick]

We have used a bench top PM for 10+ years and cut many many mortises. Clean, quick accurate if sharp tooling is used. Recently we have graduated to a PM #10 floor (pedal operated) and a PM chain mortiser. Currently looking at the Greenlee or Wysong automatic mortisers. We fabricate sash and doors, mostly custom with some small production runs.