Pre-priming and pre-painting plywood

[Mac Cambra]

Does anyone here pre-prime and paint plywood for cabinet carcasses that will have a painted finish?

I am thinking about doing this and I am wondering if I am asking for trouble doing this step prior to the traditional woodworking steps?

[julian abram]

I pre-prime most of the time on plywood cabinets, shelving units, etc. Less often I pre-paint the unit. The problem with pre-painting is damaging the finish as you machine the stock and assemble the unit. If I pre-paint seems like most of the time I end up touching up or re spraying some of the finish that I scratched during construction. You certainly can't go wrong pre-priming.

[Judson Green]

Sure did, pre-primed and pre-painted, but just one coat of the paint as mentioned above when cutting up the sheets and whatnot you'll get scratches that will need to be touched up, but having one coat on there already sure made it a ton easier, especially the cabinet insides.

I highly recommend it. Just leaned the sheets against the wall (post was better) and rolled it on, wait a bit and flip to do the other side. Let em dry a day or two before cutting up, helps the paint to adhere better.

Good luck.

[Scott Austin]

I also preprime. I usually roll the whole sheet first, rip to size,sand,prime again,sand & then assemble. It really helps in the the small area that are hard to reach.

[Tom M King]

Spray before putting the backs on, and prepaint the back.

[scott vroom]

Spray before putting the backs on, and prepaint the back.

Same as Tom, I prime and topcoat assembled carcasses without the back on....makes spraying a breeze with no blowback. I prime and topcoat the 1/4' ply back separately and then simply slip it into the dado and pin nail. For me it makes little sense to spray prior to assembly...just adds time to the project.

[Sam Murdoch]

Same as Tom, I prime and topcoat assembled carcasses without the back on....makes spraying a breeze with no blowback. I prime and topcoat the 1/4' ply back separately and then simply slip it into the dado and pin nail. For me it makes little sense to spray prior to assembly...just adds time to the project.

+1absolutely. Sooooooo Much easier.

[Judson Green]

If I had a sprayer I might do it this too.

Though I'm not sure I like the look of brush on paint, wouldn't bother me if the insides were or weren't brushed. When painting doors and sometimes faceframes I'd usually tool on with a small roller then back brush.

[Prashun Patel]

Wow, why haven't I thought of that. Best of both worlds. Notes with thanks

[Jeff Duncan]

I get everything cut, drilled, and dry fit, then I break it back down sand and spray. Otherwise there will inevitably be parts than need to be coated twice.

good luck,
JeffD

[Mac Cambra]

Thanks, I just built one of the cabinets and sprayed without the backs and had a hard time getting runs in the finish because I didn't have enough room. The outside of the cabinet was not an issue.

I thought pre-prime/paint woould work out well but I was afraid I would damage the coating during machining. I think the one coat/touch-up suggestion might be the ticket.

[Tom M King]

I use an airless rig with RAC X fine finish tip, and a 1/8" diameter whip hose. It'll get in anywhere you can spray. Sometimes, if it's a really tight one, the small foam finish rollers have to be resorted to.

[scott vroom]

I use an airless rig with RAC X fine finish tip, and a 1/8" diameter whip hose. It'll get in anywhere you can spray. Sometimes, if it's a really tight one, the small foam finish rollers have to be resorted to.

Hi Tom,

I use a Fuji HVLP gun that can be dialed back to a fine mist to hit the corners a couple of times to add color then open it up for the flats. There's more than one way to skin that cat and if those corners are giving you trouble I think pre-priming before assy would work well for you.

What type of paint are you spraying? What equipment?