Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Segmented gluing question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Idaho Falls, Idaho
    Posts
    1,359

    Segmented gluing question

    One of my favorite woods to use in segmenting is hard maple. I am not so crazy about the yellow glue lines (they show up more dark than yellow) that come from the glue. I am wondering about the strength of Elmer's white glue for holding rings together. It seems to dry more clear/light than yellow glue, but I really don't want to create a spinning shrapnel bomb on the lathe if the glue isn't strong enough to hold. Anybody with experience with white glue, or have any other suggestions?
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Bangor, PA
    Posts
    1,853
    Brian, First of all, Elmers for wood is a good glue. Carpenters used it for years before Titebond became popular. However, Titbond also makes a white glue. I'm just not sure it is sold in smaller containers. Google it and I am sure you will find more information than you need.
    faust

  3. #3
    I use Elmer's white glue almost exclusively. I have never had a glue failure. I cannot say how it reacts to exotic woods. The longer open time is the main reason that I started using it back when I built my kitchen cabinets with marquetry on all the doors. And now I probably use it out of habit.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Islesboro, Maine
    Posts
    1,268
    Titebond Translucent glue....it's clear...Titebond Translucent Wood Glue is designed for general household and woodworking projects. It provides a virtually invisible glue line and bonds stronger than the wood. A strong tack and fast speed of set helps reduce clamp time. When dry, this wood glue is unaffected by finishes and sands easily.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    International Falls, MN
    Posts
    766
    I use titebond II all the time for segmented turning. I have never had a glue failure. Never a glue line.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Mechanicsville, VA
    Posts
    101
    You might try Gorilla Wood Glue, which is a white PVA glue that's more or less the same as Titebond II.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Texas Hill Country, USA
    Posts
    1,967
    If you are doing segmented work and can see a glue line, you need to make some adjustments. You really should not be able to see the glue line and you can use whatever glue you feel comfortable using.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Idaho Falls, Idaho
    Posts
    1,359
    I don't always see a glue line, and when I do, they are not usually serious. Maybe I am just looking too closely. I thought about trying to bleach some Maple for a lighter wood, and thought the glue lines might become more obvious when the wood is bleached.
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Idaho Falls, Idaho
    Posts
    1,359
    Jay,

    What is the name of this glue? I couldn't find a listing on Titebond's web site.
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Islesboro, Maine
    Posts
    1,268
    Here u go Brian. Titebond Translucent Wood Glue

    ...http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx...c-77e7d85cf624.......

  11. #11
    Brian, with most woods any of the Titebond glues (I, II, or III) should not show if the wood surfaces are perfect matches and are tightly clamped. With white woods such as holly, I avoid the Titebond III because it does cure a little darker that the I and II.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Fort Worth Texas
    Posts
    74
    I always try to follow Ray Allen's advice "if it don't fit when it's dry it ain't going to when it's glued". Make sure you hold the rings up to a strong light when dry fitting, if you see light, sand again. My last piece if don't recall a glue line and over 500 pieces. Course I am borderline OCD so maybe not the person to ask...
    as to glue, I am exclusive Titebond II.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Beautiful Lexington, SC
    Posts
    776
    Quote Originally Posted by Blair Swing View Post
    I always try to follow Ray Allen's advice "if it don't fit when it's dry it ain't going to when it's glued". Make sure you hold the rings up to a strong light when dry fitting, if you see light, sand again. My last piece if don't recall a glue line and over 500 pieces. Course I am borderline OCD so maybe not the person to ask...
    as to glue, I am exclusive Titebond II.
    Good Morning Blair,

    Would you share your definition of a "glue line" ..... I ask this so that I can critique my own segmented work.

    Rarely if ever have I seen a glue joint that is impossible to see. Granted, some woods (by virtue of their color or grain patterns) may help the artist and some may show the delineation between the segments more clearly. Perhaps you could share a pic or two so that I and others still refining these skills can have a visual to reevaluate our goals.

    Over the years and with lots of practice I felt my glue joints have become quite good ... now I'm more anxious than usual to improve as I'm also somewhat compulsive.

    Thanks for sharing,
    Tim Boger

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Fort Worth Texas
    Posts
    74
    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgThe lamp I did in 1974 had glue lines, in fact I kicked a board off turning course I was only 12 at the time. The short stubby vessel I can see glue lines the taller one. I counted about 5 but 3 were inside. The lamp I did in 1979 no glue lines (learned about the planer by then). Hope that helps

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Beautiful Lexington, SC
    Posts
    776
    I'm in the Ball Park, thanks for taking the time to share the pics ... nice looking work.

    Tim

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •