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Thread: Glass Fracturing on Edge on Right Side

  1. #1

    Glass Fracturing on Edge on Right Side

    I'm working on a glass and it seems like all my fracturing is taking place on one side. I've run at 65, 50 an 45 power, all at 100 speed with 500 dpi. I've gone 100%, 80% and 70% black and this picture is of 45, 100, 500 on 70 % black. Most of the fractures are taking place on the leading edge of any stroke. Any thoughts on how I can get rid of this? It would engrave from right to left. Thanks.20150116_170133.jpg
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  2. #2
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    I found that if I reduce my PPI down to 100 it greatly reduces the flaking and give more of a sand blast appearance. Might need to lower PWR down even more.


    with a 25w I use 75P, 20S and 100 PPi the softer the glass the better the engraving.
    Mark
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  3. #3
    Thanks Mark.
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  4. #4
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    It does look like too much heat at 500dpi. As suggested, try lowering the dpi (I use 333 dpi). Also, is your ppi set to 1000?
    Last edited by Don Corbeil; 01-16-2015 at 9:46 PM.

    Don Corbeil

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  5. #5
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    500dpi is entirely too high of a resolution... the individual glass fractures are larger than a single dot at 500dpi, and glass does not handle overlapping dots well. I'd stick to 70-85% black, no more, no less.
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  6. #6
    Ok, so here's what I did. I went to 80% Black, increased power, slowed velocity, and maintained 500 dpi - glasses turned out perfect. Go figure. Thanks to Scott for his setup that I had written down before and found and decided to try.
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  7. #7
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    Bob, what power/speed settings did you end up using?

    I have a couple of pics pulled from a practice glass I used to test settings on my last job. The two logos shown were done with a initial pass of 65P 45S, then a second pass with 90P 45S. All were at 333 dpi. I know - 90P sounds high, but I found I was not getting a complete image with too low a power, at least on the these glasses (pint beer glass, anchor hocking). The second higher power pass made the entire image visible, and made the edges look more crisp. Overall tho, I have found it's pretty difficult to get a flawless, consistent finish glass after glass. There's often some small area that drops out, or flakes now and then.


    P1010285.jpgP1010280.jpgP1010286.jpg
    Last edited by Don Corbeil; 01-17-2015 at 4:22 PM.

    Don Corbeil

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  8. #8
    Don, it was 64P with 50V and 500 dpi on the same machine you have. Worked like a charm for me but what you've got there looks great. Think I'll try one like that.
    Trotec Speedy 300 80 Watt w/ Rotary
    Trotec Job Control Software
    Graphtec CE500-60 24 inch Vinyl cutter
    3 - Tajima TFMX-C1501 Single Head Embroidery Machines
    Tajima Pulse software Version 14 Illustrator Extreme
    Corel X4 & X7 Suite
    Howard Model 45Hot Stamping Machine
    Assorted Heat presses/Cap presses

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