Waterlox and lambs wool

[Jeffrey Cole]

I am going to finish my new dinning table with Waterlox original sealer/finish. Can I apply this with a lambs wool applicator that I saw in the waterlox video on floor finishing?
Jeffrey

[Steve Schoene]

I wouldn't recommend it--it's very difficult to get a lamb's wool applicator that won't leave a fiber or two. On a floor that's no big deal, but on a table it matters. I like wiping on the Original/Sealer with a lint free paper towel (like blue shop towels). The wipe on applications are very thin, but easy to control. Put them on in "sets" of three coats, applying the next coat as soon as the last isn't tacky (typically about 2-3 hours). After three coats, let them cure overnight, sand lightly with 320 grit to remove any defects, and apply the next set. A dining table should take at least 9 coats this way, but the total elapsed time will be about the same as if you had brushed on thicker coats.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Do exactly what Steve says -

Famous Blue Shop Towels - I only use the Scott brand.

I like to fold it into a pad so that I end up with a sharp "edge" and no exposed corners or tails to drag as I apply it. The pad ends up being the size of my hand.

Works perfect every time.

After the coat is applied, unfold it, and let it lay there to dry before tossing in the trash.

"At least 9 coats" would be "at least 12 coats" in my world for a dining table top. Which is why I migrated to brush on the first three coats - often 4 for this type of thing, leaving only the last cycle of 3 wipe-ons to complete it.

3 wipe on = 1 brush on, to get the same film thickness.

[Jeffrey Cole]

Thanks for the input Steve and Kent
Kent If I brush on the first 3 or 4 coats is it 24 hours between these coats?
Jeffrey

[Kent A Bathurst]

Thanks for the input Steve and Kent
Kent If I brush on the first 3 or 4 coats is it 24 hours between these coats?
Jeffrey

Bingo. YOu have the same film thickness as 3 wipe-on coats, and that is why you sand after those 3.

FWIW:

What works for me is...
1. First brush on coat thinned to 75/25. Goes on quickly, smooths well, absorbs. Builds a base film
2. next 3 - thin only until you get a good flow off the brush. I never measure this - just a blurb of MS, stir, dip brush. When I think I got it, I take a swip on the target, and add a bit as necessary to get it to "feel right". I think I am in the 10%+ range. A little bit of MS makes a big difference in the viscosity, so don't put in much each time.
3. Sand 320 between each coat [3M Gold is my all-time fave] after 24 hors [+/-....I don't use a stopwatch - "tomorrow at about hte same time"]
4. WIpe on the last set. I do this becaused the wipe-on flashes quickly, so there are much fewer dust nibs. I don't always put on 3 - just as likely I only do 2. The object here is a nice, smooth, final finish. The wipe-on is thinned 50/50.

Never used the new "low VOC". Never used the Sealer. Not saying no to these, just saying I dunno how they act.

[Sam Murdoch]

Bingo. YOu have the same film thickness as 3 wipe-on coats, and that is why you sand after those 3.

FWIW:

What works for me is...
1. First brush on coat thinned to 75/25. Goes on quickly, smooths well, absorbs. Builds a base film
2. next 3 - thin only until you get a good flow off the brush. I never measure this - just a blurb of MS, stir, dip brush. When I think I got it, I take a swip on the target, and add a bit as necessary to get it to "feel right". I think I am in the 10%+ range. A little bit of MS makes a big difference in the viscosity, so don't put in much each time.
3. Sand 320 between each coat [3M Gold is my all-time fave] after 24 hors [+/-....I don't use a stopwatch - "tomorrow at about hte same time"]
4. WIpe on the last set. I do this becaused the wipe-on flashes quickly, so there are much fewer dust nibs. I don't always put on 3 - just as likely I only do 2. The object here is a nice, smooth, final finish. The wipe-on is thinned 50/50.

Never used the new "low VOC". Never used the Sealer. Not saying no to these, just saying I dunno how they act.

To Jeff - the OP - Kent's has a good system here. # 3 is essential in my experience with brushed on coats. His last steps 4 and 2 ( ) are not exactly what I do but I trust that they are a good approach.

Kent - when you say you never use the "sealer" are you referring to the Waterlox Original Sealer Finish? Are you using the Satin or Gloss? I really hate the satin as I have never successfully applied it to my satisfaction. The solids in the formula never level out no matter how I stir or thin or prep or other conditions.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Kent - when you say you never use the "sealer" are you referring to the Waterlox Original Sealer Finish?

Yep.

Are you using the Satin or Gloss?

Gloss. Except one time the client wanted the look of the satin. No disuading her. Deep breath. "Yes Ma'am. Right you are".

I had no trouble at all. Went thru my finish schedule as above with std varnish. Got it looking great in gloss. Then - one last wipe on coat of Satin.

Got the film build and quality of finish that made me happy, then ruined it all in 5 minutes so the $Money was happy. Still perfectly smooth. Just looked like heck froze over, IMO. But - the check cleared, ya' dig?

All the satin additives do is to interrupt the light refraction at the very very very surface. Nothing to gain by using it from wood fiber up to the top. There is an argument about whether going all-satin for the full Monty "muddies" the clarity/depth. Some say no. Some say yes, and do what I do. Me? Don't care: "Not my pig. Not my farm".

[Jeffrey Cole]

ALL GOOD INFORMATION, THANK YOU!!
Kent, referring to 320 grit. sending you say that 3-M gold is your all time favorite. What is that and what is it used for?
Jeffrey

[Kent A Bathurst]

ALL GOOD INFORMATION, THANK YOU!!
Kent, referring to 320 grit. sending you say that 3-M gold is your all time favorite. What is that and what is it used for?
Jeffrey

Brand of sandpaper.

3M makes it. 216U is the formal name - it is gold color. 320grit. I also have and use 400g and 600g. Different abrasive than normal stuff. Different cost also.

A very good alternative is the Norton 3X brand. Also Gold color. Avail in same grits. I use it too. More easily availabe, often, than the 3M. Never found it in a brick-and-mortar store. I get mine from Homestead Finishing in, like 50-sheet packs. Have not bought in a while - assume Jeff still sells them.

I like them because they are the "P" grit designation. You can google the heck out of that. From my persepctive in teh peanut gallery, what the P grit designation means is that they have a much smaller window of grit size tolerance than the standard grits. So - P320 has a much more consistent grit size than the normal 320 - fewer chunks of grit bigger than the 320 get onto the paper. IT is more complex than that, but I don't sweat that level of detail.

I use the 320 and bigger for finishing. 320 between-coats oil varnish. 400 for btwn coats shellac. 600 for "this is my final goddarn coat of finish, save the last".

I do not use this stuff for sanding wood. It is available in lower grits as well. Assume those would work fine for general sanding, but I have this "garnet" thing working for me, and I stick with that.

A lot of folks will tell you I am going overboard - no need to go past 320 for finishes. They could well be correct. I get into my "it has always worked for me" zone, and am hesitant to color outside those lines.

"It works for me" is a far different response than "it was on the back of Moses' tablets". It only means I have no arguments with alternatives, but you need to bring a team of horses to drag me off the rails.

Good luck..............

Kent

[Jeffrey Cole]

Thanks for all your help guys. This has been very informative and helpful. Finishing is a whole new ballgame for me. Just wanted to get some information before I dive in with both feet. Nothing like hands on experience and learning from your mistakes.
Thanks again for your time!!
Jeffrey