Lightest Oil to match teak desk

[Alan Lightstone]

I'm just finishing a desk extension project, and I need to match the finishes. I was hoping this would not be that difficult as the original desk is 30 year old teak, most likely finished with a "Teak Oil" finish (which I believe is Tung Oil and Varnish wiping varnish finish).

Here is a picture of a test piece. It's two light coats of 100% Tung Oil. It's clearly much darker and not nearly as reddish and warm as the original desk beneath it.
Tung-Oil-Finish-100-percent---Web.jpg
Which oils are significantly lighter than Tung Oil? Is BLO much lighter?

Is this yet another job for Waterlox (though I want a matte finish, not even semi-gloss?)

Will I have to dye the piece with some yellow and reddish tones, or can this just be achieved with an oil or wiping varnish finish? The piece is quite large, so spraying is not possible for me.

[Steve Schoene]

BLO would be a bit darker, and Waterlox would be considerably darker than tung oil.

Of course, matching 30 year old teak with modern teak is not a snap. All teak is not alike--some has different colors than others. Also thirty years of exposure to light and air will have changed the color of the older wood.

For that matter, it is not at all certain that the piece was finished with Danish Oil, despite being Danish Modern furniture. Certain matte lacquer products were used that replicated Danish Oil, but can be dried and out the factory door much faster than the oil finish.

To achieve the match, you may have to do things differently. First, I would try to find a water clear waterborne finish with a matte sheen. Try that on your new wood and see what else you need to do to achieve a match. You may need a light dye to adjust the color before topcoating with the waterborne finish.

[Alan Lightstone]

Interesting. I'm making samples for what I have on hand, but I thought it was a slam dunk that was how the furniture was originally finished. Of course I could lightly sand the present piece and finish all the pieces again, but really not that interested in that, as it is chock full of computer equipment on top of it.

Which water clear waterborne finishes can be wiped on? I'm used to spraying them on.

Also, I do have a can of Pratt & Lambert 38 hanging around. Any role for that as a lighter colored varnish in addition to some oil to make a wiping varnish?

[Jim Becker]

Alan, it's not just the finish...keep in mind that over time, UV and oxidation will have changed the color of the wood in the original, too.

[John TenEyck]

What's it look like just wiped with MS or DNA? If it's still darker than the piece you are trying to match, well, you're likely cooked unless you first bleach it.

John

[scott vroom]

Of course I could lightly sand the present piece and finish all the pieces again, but really not that interested in that, as it is chock full of computer equipment on top of it.

Even if you are able to find a finish that matches the original it is likely over time that the new piece will change color from UV exposure. IMO your best option is sanding both pieces and then apply your finish of choice to both. I've done limited work with teak and have found it to vary greatly within a unit.

[Alan Lightstone]

Even if you are able to find a finish that matches the original it is likely over time that the new piece will change color from UV exposure. IMO your best option is sanding both pieces and then apply your finish of choice to both. I've done limited work with teak and have found it to vary greatly within a unit.

I'm thinking more and more that this may be the necessary approach.