Oneida Dust Sentry Failure

[Ben Rivel]

Ole, I make the bin sensor system that has been sold through the ClearVue Cyclones website since 2012. It was mentioned briefly earlier in this thread, but I cannot comment further per the forum standards.

You make this one? LINK

[Robert Payne]

Yes (can't just say "yes" due to 10-character rule!).

[Ben Rivel]

Yes (can't just say "yes" due to 10-character rule!).

Ha, yea that does get annoying sometimes. Well thats pretty cool. I do like that it monitors the build up going up the flex hose, seems like it would leave less possibilities for erroneous readings. Might adapt my build with a two part (transmitter and receiver) Banner sensor and try monitoring via the flex hose tube too. Wouldnt have to drill a hole in the top of the can lid then either. And I suppose I could add a solid state relay in the mix to cut power to the blower too, but Im not sure I like that idea seeing as how false trips could trigger it and I really dont want my blower being turned on and off anymore frequently than it has to.

Anyone out there opened up their Oneida power box and taken a look inside? Post a pic if you have. Otherwise Ill try and get to it when Im home and can have a look. Lets see what it might take to add the power kill control to the dust bin sensor.

[mreza Salav]

I have a home-made bin-full sensor that costs under $20 and works fine. All you need is a light sensor with a bit of delay (20-30 seconds), an LED light and I put them at the opposite side of the 6" clear flex-hose at the top of the bin. I have a red light outside my DC storage closet that turns on when the bin is full. Haven't had any problem in the last 5 years or so I have had it. The sensor/LED are at the ends of a U-shaped piece that is hinged and will lift up when I want to move the bin out.

image_89998.jpgimage_89997.jpg

[Brian Hood]

Ben,
thanks for your help with the PNP thing. I went ahead and added the overfill sensor to my automatic (current sensing) DC controller I built today. DC turns on when the saw comes on and the sensor kills power to the blower if the barrel gets too full.
Cost $105 for the whole shebang and was a dead easy build. Now, all I need is a barrel!
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[Dennis Yamamoto]

The other side (far side) was not easy to get to... but here's what I found. "QS18VP6D", with a smaller "10-30VDC" underneath.

I have the same problem with my Oneida dust bin sensor too. I called Oneida and they would only sell a whole new unit including strobe and power supply that I don't need.

Has anyone installed the Banner QS18VP6D? If so, where did you get it from? I see several on Ebay from China. Although I have traveled to China a number of times on business, I have never ordered on Ebay from China.

Thanks,

Dennis

[Ben Rivel]

I have the same problem with my Oneida dust bin sensor too. I called Oneida and they would only sell a whole new unit including strobe and power supply that I don't need.

Has anyone installed the Banner QS18VP6D? If so, where did you get it from? I see several on Ebay from China. Although I have traveled to China a number of times on business, I have never ordered on Ebay from China.

Thanks,

Dennis

Bought mine from some random seller with good feedback on eBay. It was brand new and I got it for I believe $35. Was from a US seller though. That being said Ive bought TONS of stuff from China via eBay. If the sellers reviews were good Ive never had a problem. And if you do have a problem eBay will give you your money back and more than likely you wont have to bother returning the product.

[Brian Backner]

Welp, here ya go guys, nice and simple.

Attachment 332394

Id recommend a wall wart of at least 200mA. Pretty common, you probably have an old one laying around from a network/internet router or some other electronic do-hicky that no longer works. Just make sure its 12V DC.

Regarding the sensor, this example uses the PNP version (QS18VP6D, the one Oneida currently uses) but you can also use the NPN version (I will be since thats what I found a good deal on, QS18VN6D) but the wiring will be different.

NPN Version (QS18VN6D):

Attachment 332398

The strobe they are using is this one I believe: LINK, if you use anything different either drive it with a relay (one which the contact driving part draws 100mA or less) or make sure whatever it is you use draws less than about 120mA.

You could utilize that fourth lead from the optical sensor to activate a a cheap automotive 12vdc relay to activate, in turn, a 120vac coil power relay for your 240vac dust collector. When the bin is full, the sensor both activates the strobe light and automatically shuts off the DC. Probably not really necessary, but if someday you can't turn on your DC, a lighted strobe would at least let you know why (and that there wasn't some other problem). I was able to find 30A 4 pole SquareD relays on eBay for $25, so you could add this functionality for about $35 and some additional wire, etc.

Of course, that does mean you'll be working with line level voltage that can kill you or burn down your shop if you mess it up. So get help if you don't know what you're doing!

[Ben Rivel]

You could utilize that fourth lead from the optical sensor to activate a a cheap automotive 12vdc relay to activate, in turn, a 120vac coil power relay for your 240vac dust collector. When the bin is full, the sensor both activates the strobe light and automatically shuts off the DC. Probably not really necessary, but if someday you can't turn on your DC, a lighted strobe would at least let you know why (and that there wasn't some other problem). I was able to find 30A 4 pole SquareD relays on eBay for $25, so you could add this functionality for about $35 and some additional wire, etc.

Of course, that does mean you'll be working with line level voltage that can kill you or burn down your shop if you mess it up. So get help if you don't know what you're doing!

A much safer and simpler and cheaper route would be to just wire the NO output of the sensor to the off button (assuming its also a NO switch) on a spare dust collector wireless remote.

[Brian Backner]

A much safer and simpler and cheaper route would be to just wire the NO output of the sensor to the off button on a spare dust collector wireless remote.

True. If you have a wireless remote for your DC. I don't, but I do have a box full of various relays ......

[Ben Rivel]

True. If you have a wireless remote for your DC. I don't, but I do have a box full of various relays ......

Got it. Gotta work with what ya got!

[Ken Andersen]

Welp, here ya go guys, nice and simple.

Attachment 332394

Id recommend a wall wart of at least 200mA. Pretty common, you probably have an old one laying around from a network/internet router or some other electronic do-hicky that no longer works. Just make sure its 12V DC.

Regarding the sensor, this example uses the PNP version (QS18VP6D, the one Oneida currently uses) but you can also use the NPN version (I will be since thats what I found a good deal on, QS18VN6D) but the wiring will be different.

NPN Version (QS18VN6D):

Attachment 332398

The strobe they are using is this one I believe: LINK, if you use anything different either drive it with a relay (one which the contact driving part draws 100mA or less) or make sure whatever it is you use draws less than about 120mA.

Ben,

I have both the strobe you linked and a QS18VN6D sensor on order. Now I'm wondering about supplying power to them. My DC is 230v, and I'd like to source power from the the magnetic starter so the drum sensor is only on when the DC is running. Thus, to facilitate the wiring into the mag starter I need a 230v to 12v dc adapter **with cord** (not a wall wart). The lowest power of this type I've seen is 12v 1000ma output, wheras the strobe only requires 120ma. Is that an issue? Any other specs that I need to look for?

[Ben Rivel]

Ben,

I have both the strobe you linked and a QS18VN6D sensor on order. Now I'm wondering about supplying power to them. My DC is 230v, and I'd like to source power from the the magnetic starter so the drum sensor is only on when the DC is running. Thus, to facilitate the wiring into the mag starter I need a 230v to 12v dc adapter **with cord** (not a wall wart). The lowest power of this type I've seen is 12v 1000ma output, wheras the strobe only requires 120ma. Is that an issue? Any other specs that I need to look for?

Im amazed you found that unit. I hadnt tried looking for a 220V to 12v power supply as I didnt want my sensor to be turned on and off every time with the dust collector. Since the sensor only draws 25mA (the amount of on small LED like the kind that is probably on right now on your flat panel TV) its energy usage is negligible. That being said, as long as the power supply you found outputs 12 volts DC it doesnt matter how much its max current output is as long as its more than the system needs. In this case the system needs at the least 145mA (25mA for the sensor and 120mA for the strobe). The remaining overhead in the 1000mA (or 1A) in the power supply you found will just be there unused and might be nice to have around for later in case you want to power something else off of that same power supply, like maybe a brighter light, led strip, or perhaps a buzzer.

Post a link to the powersupply you found. Others might find it useful. As soon as I get a chance to assembly my setup I was planning on creating a separate thread on this build as well as one for the Oneida filter efficiency gauge I figured out the parts for.

[Ken Andersen]

Im amazed you found that unit. I hadnt tried looking for a 220V to 12v power supply as I didnt want my sensor to be turned on and off every time with the dust collector. Since the sensor only draws 25mA (the amount of on small LED like the kind that is probably on right now on your flat panel TV) its energy usage is negligible. That being said, as long as the power supply you found outputs 12 volts DC it doesnt matter how much its max current output is as long as its more than the system needs. In this case the system needs at the least 145mA (25mA for the sensor and 120mA for the strobe). The remaining overhead in the 1000mA (or 1A) in the power supply you found will just be there unused and might be nice to have around for later in case you want to power something else off of that same power supply, like maybe a brighter light, led strip, or perhaps a buzzer.

Post a link to the powersupply you found. Others might find it useful. As soon as I get a chance to assembly my setup I was planning on creating a separate thread on this build as well as one for the Oneida filter efficiency gauge I figured out the parts for.

Ben,

Here's one:

http://www.banggood.com/110V-240V-to...electronics-CA

I'm curious why you prefer to have your sensor on even when the DC is not. My own practice is to unplug everything before I leave the shop so having a wall wart
for the dust sensor is one more thing to plug in/off.

[Ben Rivel]

Ben,

Here's one:

http://www.banggood.com/110V-240V-to...electronics-CA

I'm curious why you prefer to have your sensor on even when the DC is not. My own practice is to unplug everything before I leave the shop so having a wall wart
for the dust sensor is one more thing to plug in/off.

Oh yea now I see what power supplies you were thinking of using. I dont think you can use those kinds because they are designed to be used in a setup similar to our 110V outlets where there is a hot, neutral and ground but in other parts of the world. Where as our 220V circuits are two hots and a ground with no return path through a neutral. Motors wired for 220V are designed to utilize and combine the two separate 110V circuits internally. Now Im not 100% sure on that as I am much more of a low voltage electronics guy so you should do some research on that before you attempt to go that route.

That said if you can not use that type of power supply and power the bin sensor setup off your dust collectors power you will still have to power on and off the bin sensor separately.

To answer your question regarding turning it on and off or leaving it on all the time, no real reason I guess other than thats the way anyone who purchased the kit from Oneida would run it and as I mentioned before since its power usage is so small Id rather just not be bothered with remembering to turn it on and off separately as you are trying to avoid too. Perhaps Ill wire it to my shop lights or something so that it can be powered on and off when Im in the shop/garage and the lights are on. ? Not sure, Ill have to think about it.