Rikon 10-340 to Laguna 14 SUV, downgrade or not?

[Zech Wicker]

I currently own a Rikon 10-340 and find it somewhat frustrating in use due to vibration, noise, and constantly having to adjust tracking and or guides every time I tension blade for use. The blade also runs in a recpricating motion, which in turn makes the rear guides hard to set. I have done everything but replace the tires to try and remedy this to no avail. What I am wondering is if this is fairly normal for a bandsaw as this is the first and only bandsaw I have used or owned. I am considering selling it along with some other equipment and buying a laguna 14suv with money. Would this saw perform any better or would it be a downgrade? My rikon has a 3hp baldor and I mainly use it for resawing. Any feedback or input would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

[Phil Thien]

Have you tried a different blade? The "reciprocating" motion making the rear blade is a telltale symptom of a bad blade weld.

If you're using Timberwolf/Suffolk blades set them aside and try a different brand altogether.

[Wade Lippman]

Geez, I have a 10-345 and it is a gem. I don't have any of the problems you mention, and I haven't seen them on other saws I have used. I expect there is something wrong with your saw (a wheel out of alignment seems most likely); any chance of getting someone knowledgeable to look at it? If not, then any saw is likely to be an upgrade.

[Zech Wicker]

I have the same problem with all three of the woodslicer blades I have, and the welds look good. I don't think it is the wheel alignment as the blade will track in the center of both top and bottom wheels at the same time. It just reciprocates. I can get it to resaw nicely it just requires fiddling every time I retention the blade or change blades. Also when resawing I feel like my feed rate has to be much slower than it should be for these blades, which is a little frustrating.

[Frederick Skelly]

Zech,
I was wondering - have you called Rikon to discuss it with their techs? They helped me solve a technical problem with my 14" Rikon over the phone in 10 mins. They'll try to help you - especially when you say "I'm selling yours to buy a Laguna."
Fred

[Al Weber]

Can't help you with the comparison but if you go to the Rikon website there is a description of how to adjust the lower wheel to minimize or eliminate the front to back oscillation. I have the same saw and had the same problem and it was worse with some blades but never went away completely even though I tried the adjustment. I bought a bimetal blade from Iturra Designs earlier this year and the same instructions are given in their catalog. So I went through the process again using the bimetal blade and have pretty well eliminated all the movement. The 340 I got many years ago is of poor quality and I had to rebore some of the mounting holes in the frame to get the side bearings to close on the blade. It is my opinion that Rikon quality is spotty at best and some of their products are very good but you can get a bad one. Try adjusting the lower wheel alignment using the instructions and see if it helps. It was also my experience that the Timberwolf blades had bad welds and contributed to the problem. I'd recommend Iturra if you need a new blade. High quality and not terribly expensive. If you can't locate the article let me know and I can email a copy to you.

[Zech Wicker]

I have done the lower wheel adjustment three times and have definitely reduced the severity of the oscillating. I even went as far as balancing the lower wheel which did take out some of the vibration. I guess I'm really wanting to know if the aside the throat depth is the laguna really a higher quality saw or are you just paying for the name?

[Phil Thien]

If all three blades you're using are from the same source, try a blade from a different source. I cannot stress this enough, three blades from one source isn't like testing three different blades, it is like testing one blade. That is because the likelihood is high that the same guy welded all three blades, and if he screwed-up #1, he likely screwed-up #2 and #3 as well.

Do you have the original (factory) blade?

Bad welds (poor alignment) are still the #1 cause of what you're seeing. I've watched this being done, getting the backs of the bands into the clamps just right takes some finesse, and a lot of people just don't understand that even a slight misalignment of a few thousandths can cause problems.

[Andrew Joiner]

I currently own a Rikon 10-340 and find it somewhat frustrating in use due to vibration, noise, and constantly having to adjust tracking and or guides every time I tension blade for use. The blade also runs in a recpricating motion, which in turn makes the rear guides hard to set. I have done everything but replace the tires to try and remedy this to no avail. .

I had the same saw and the same problem with 2 different blades. Rikon sent me a few parts to try and solve the problem, but it didn't help. The Rikon tech was helpful, but I didn't want to keep rebuilding a new machine. I returned it to Woodcraft and bought a Grizzly that ran fine right out of the crate.
It can happen with any new machine even from a European supplier from what I read here. Ease of returning is a consideration for me on any new purchase now.

[Curt Harms]

I would sure do what Phil suggests. A new blade from a different vendor is a whole lot cheaper than a new band saw. Iturra has been mentioned. Two sources I've used are woodcraftbands.com (not associated with Woodcraft) and Supercutbandsaw.com. There are others equally good, these I've had experience with. There have been enough reports by people with similar problems with Timberwolf blades to make trying a different brand worthwhile IMO. How did the original blade behave? I have a 10-325 and the blade that came with the saw wasn't bad. What did the Rikon tech have you try? Here is how I'd go about it.

As far as vibration, you could remove the drive belt and just run the motor and pulley. If there's vibration is pretty much has to be either the motor or pulley. Little or no vibration? Put the belt on but no blade and run it. If vibration gets worse it's likely the lower wheel. Still no vibration? Put the blade on and tension it. If it now vibrates, it just about has to be the blade or the upper wheel. Try a different blade. Still vibrates? The upper wheel would seem to be the culprit. Do you know how to check the wheels for imbalance? You want the wheels free spinning so remove the drive belt. Mark a spot on the wheel with a marker. Spin the wheel by hand a few times and let it come to a stop. If the mark ends up at about the same spot each time, the wheel is probably out of balance.

[Zech Wicker]

Well, I'm here to report no more Rikon in my shop. I went out today and bought a new Laguna 14 12 and a 3/4" Resaw King to go with it. Got it put together with minimal fuss and my god is it the greatest thing ever! I'm in love! First test cut into 8" of black walnut and it did amazing. Thanks for all the input, and if you happen to be in the market for a new bandsaw I think Laguna is the way to go.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

I think you have answered your own question. Yes, the Laguna is a better bandsaw, you aren't just paying for the name.
Congratulations on your new band saw, may it give you many years of pleasure.

[Matthew Hills]

Got it put together with minimal fuss and my god is it the greatest thing ever! I'm in love!

Best feeling ever!

Matt