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Thread: Easiest finish for DIY Homeowner

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Farmersville, OH (Near Dayton)
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    69

    Easiest finish for DIY Homeowner

    I am looking to build some cabinetry fro my house. Entertainment center, mudroom, vanity, etc. . . This will be a long process overtime, but looking for some advice on finishing.


    I worked for a custom cabinetmaker for about 4 years during college, so I know how to build and finish from a production perspective, but am struggling a bit figuring out how to do it at home without panel saws, widebelt sander, fully ventilation finish booths etc. . . You get the idea.

    I have figured out the construction part but finishing is another story. I always sprayed pre-cat lacquer at the cabinet shot and I loved the finish, but that is just not feasible at home. How are the water-based lacquers? Similar product to pre-cat lacquer, but with easier clean-up?


    On the cabinets that I plan on painting, I was thinking of using pre-finished plywood for the cases then just hand brushing/rolling the face frame. If I buy good brushes and use a good trim paint from SW or Porter then can I expect my results to be acceptable?


    Thanks for the advice,
    Jake

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Northern Neck Virginia
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    602
    how about using pre finished plywood for cabinets, then you only have to worry about finishing the face frames (assuming your using them).

    you could make a make shift spray booth to spray out side with. for waterborne SW has a few choices that can be used on cabinets.

    i personally would not use brush and roller to paint cabinets when i have the ability to spray. you could use a tinted conversion vanish or tinted pre cat lacquer. both are available in solvent and waterborne.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    WNY
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    9,750
    Based on your comments I don't think you will be happy with a brushed or rolled finish. There are several good wipe on varnishes available that could be used for the clear coated projects, but for the painted ones I think you will want to spray them. Actually, I think you will want to spray all your projects. With that in mind, I would look at General Finishes line of water based topcoats and paints. http://generalfinishes.com/professio...shing-products They make a complete line of products, including a water borne conversion varnish and pre cat lacquer, suitable for cabinets and furniture, that are available to the DIY'er through Homestead Finishing and Woodworker's Hardware on-line/phone, perhaps others. Their Enduro White Poly can be tinted to any color desired.

    I use a temporary spray booth (plastic hung from the joists) in my basement shop with an exhaust fan that expels over spray out a window. I use cheap HVLP conversion spray guns running off a 60 gal compressor and get very good results. You don't have to spend a lot to get really good results. If you stick with water borne products, safety is not a major issue, although you should still make sure to exhaust the over spray and wear a respirator with organics cartridges.

    John

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    S.E. Tennessee ... just a bit North of Chattanooga
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    I haven't tried one of these myself, but if you have access to an air compressor, lots of folks on several forums are singing praises for a cheap little HVLP gun from Harbor Freight. Readily available, and under $20.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Farmersville, OH (Near Dayton)
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    69
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Wingard View Post
    I haven't tried one of these myself, but if you have access to an air compressor, lots of folks on several forums are singing praises for a cheap little HVLP gun from Harbor Freight. Readily available, and under $20.

    I have plenty compressor for the job. I may try one of these spray gun, will they spray paint or clear as long as it is thinned properly?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    I regularly use a HF gun with a 1.4 mm orifice, which is about $10 on sale, and it sprays a beautiful finish when you get the viscosity down to 25 - 30 seconds through a #4 Ford cup. Most of the GF water borne products have viscosities in the 45 - 65 range so some thinning is required for that gun. So I more often use a 1.8 mm orifice gun, not a HF one but still less than $50, and no thinning is required for most of the GF products. For hobby use I see no need to spend a lot of money on spray equipment. The internals of the HF or my other gun are not stainless steel, but I've seen no corrosion in 4 years from the WB products I spray (many gallons). Even if I did, for $10 you can get a new one whenever needed.

    John

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