parts for ancient powermatic jointer?

[sean schriver]

Really depends on the condition of the table and ways. New cast iron isn't spec'd to the .002 you are talking about, more like .005-.010. If the PM has that fine grain Meehanite rated cast iron and flat it is worth some effort. There were lots made so the owwm guys may have some parts. Dave

Hey Dave, thanks, can you reply to my reply to the other dave, lol...about the gib shems? I am thinking this is where all my issues are coming from. Once I get both tables 4 corner coplaner (to within .002 while shimming the outfeed table with feeler gauges) as soon as I unlock, move, re-lock the infeed table for a test pass, it does not come back to the original settings. with out this, I'm gonna have to throw in the towel or 4 corner level the tables at cut depth of 1/32 and never change it which would really suck since I use rough-sawn lumber to start with.....

[David Kumm]

I'm no help. I'm a huge fan of old wedgebed jointers but only the ones where the tables bolt to the wedges. The PM uses the design that is hard to fix since the tables are integral. The cast iron work was usually good but years of service- often not too gentle- are take a toll. I always take an 8' level with me to access the droop because it is the pain you are experiencing. Dave

[David Werkheiser]

From what I remember (12-15 years ago) the new gibbs did not have any punch marks on them. As to shimming I only did the out feed side. I tightened up the gibbs on the in feed side to where it slid smoothly, and shimmed the out feed to coplaner. When I set new knives I use a dial indicator on the outfeed table as you do. I sold the 8" Powermatic 8 years ago and went to a 12" Extrema on which I have never moved the out feed table after first set up.
David W

[sean schriver]

Thanks all for your input. I may have located a machine shop that has experience with powermatic jointers and also builds and maintains the machines a local eagle window and door plant. They will be getting back to me on monday as to what needs to be done to get this thing back to factory fresh operation and a price. at that point its up to me to decide whether I invest or buy a new import machine as a $2200 powermatic 8" is at the top of my budget and a $1200 shopfox is very comfortable....
I'll post the results when I get them...Thanks!

[Phil Thien]

If there is enough material on the old bearing cap, I would suggest trying a Heli-Coil or some other threaded insert solution.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Thanks all for your input. I may have located a machine shop that has experience with powermatic jointers and also builds and maintains the machines a local eagle window and door plant. They will be getting back to me on monday as to what needs to be done to get this thing back to factory fresh operation and a price. at that point its up to me to decide whether I invest or buy a new import machine as a $2200 powermatic 8" is at the top of my budget and a $1200 shopfox is very comfortable....
I'll post the results when I get them...Thanks!

Man - I'd be drooling at this option. "Old big arn" restored to pristine condition, rather than new Chi-wan-ese gear. And - a professional shop with tremendous experience in exactly your equipment.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Sean
This file from Tuning your Jointer may help you. http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/JointerTuning.ashx

[sean schriver]

If there is enough material on the old bearing cap, I would suggest trying a Heli-Coil or some other threaded insert solution.

Thanks Phil, I will keep that in mind if I cant oversize the bolt and redrill and tap the existing hole...the present threads on both are mashed.

[sean schriver]

Man - I'd be drooling at this option. "Old big arn" restored to pristine condition, rather than new Chi-wan-ese gear. And - a professional shop with tremendous experience in exactly your equipment.

Well...I would like to but machine shops here run around 80 some per hr so...the cost my be preventitive...but im trying...

[sean schriver]

Im gonna post a lot of pics of the project tonight to a drop box account so all can see what is going on and my theory on how to correct. I will post the link after I get home. You are all welcome to view and let me know your thoughts....thanks!

[sean schriver]

Ok Here it is. I have multiple pictures on a dropbox account and three part video explaining my dilemma...Let me know if this helps or if I can answer any other questions...Thanks for all your help!

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/c759a22bh...A1TAVuLSa?dl=0

The video's are the last 3 at the bottom and go in order. Just copy and paste the link above in your address bar and there ya go!

[Joe Lazar]

I know this thread is old at this point, but I was curious how this all ended up. I’m looking at a PM model 60 of the same vintage and am concerned about what I’m getting myself into. How did it turn out?

[Mike O'Keefe]

Used to be a place called Redmunds Machinery or something like that. They are-were located in Atlanta. I got parts for my M60 there. Mike O'Keefe

[Don Jarvie]

Join OWWM. Plenty of information and a buy/sell section.

[sean schriver]

I know this thread is old at this point, but I was curious how this all ended up. I’m looking at a PM model 60 of the same vintage and am concerned about what I’m getting myself into. How did it turn out?

Hi Joe, sorry about the delay...
I actually replaced all the brass bushings, wet sanded lightly all the dovetails to get rid of any rust and used a white lithium grease (light coat) to make it slide better. We then flipped the metal shems and off set slightly to present clean sides for the gib screws to pinch into. The gib screws we lightly reground to sharp points to prevent walking when setting the tension with them. We found a machine shop that while they couldn't mill the beds coplanar due to the length of their gantry and my deck beds, I set the table to coplaner as well as possible, made a heavy duty jig to bolt the whole machine to minus the cabinet and motor and fence. they then used a grinding mill that had enough travel and set the whole thing under and ground both decks at the same time to within 2-5 thousandths. I was quite pleased and it stayed within tolerance whenever I made adjustments to bed height once I got it home and re-assembled. no need for metal shems anymore and the deck was not warped and holds tolerance as the bed height is changed.
I actually purchased a new 81" bailey parallelogram jointer and gave this one to my dad for his use in his shop since he paid for the grinding. He says it works like a charm and runs great. Probably not as accurate as my $3000 joiner but damn good enough for the hobby shop/small furniture he makes. I just wanted something easier to adjust, more power, and longer bed length for longer stock.
Hope that helps, let me know if you have questions...was definitely worth the parts and milling cost.