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Thread: parts for ancient powermatic jointer?

  1. #1

    parts for ancient powermatic jointer?

    Hey all,
    Quick question, I have a powermatic 8" M60, an OLDIE I have been using for a couple years. I think 1960-70. Anyway I am in the process of tearing it down and cleaning it. Noticed I will need a new outside bearing cap and bolt, The threads on both are just about stripped and barely stay tightened. Also will need new infeed and outfeed gib shims bars. Any ideas on where I can order these parts from? I found the part numbers from what I think is the correct year manual on vintage machinery. I have a feeling contacting powermatic is going to be wasted effort. I was trying to make my tables co-planer with shims but as soon as I unlocked/locked the infeed table to set to cutting depth, there went all my work. it just never would come back to my settings. I am hoping the new parts and a good polishing of the keyways and white lithium grease would help but I'll save all that for another post soon. Mainly need to get the new parts first...any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Sean,

    Here's a link to ereplacementparts.com who has a M60C and other models through M60HH parts http://www.ereplacementparts.com/sea...=Jointer+Parts .

    But if it were me, I would go to a local bearing shop and hardware store. Bearings and bolts are typically available locally. If you go this route, take the old bearing and bolt with you.

    Good luck with your search!
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 10-07-2014 at 12:30 AM.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  3. #3
    Thanks Ken,
    Actually, I don't need the bearings, just the outside bearing cap (non pulley side) that the bearing fits into and then is bolted from underneath through the actual jointer and the Gib Slides (pretty worn) that go in the keyways. think they would have these? it's quite old...I am not sure which model I have, the placard only says model 60 and the serial number. I tried to use Vintage machinery's table to find out what year it was but it was pretty confusing to me. The bolt I think I can find at a hardware store but I am not sure is a standard bolt. I would prefer to get one with the cap so I know it matches but if worse comes to worse....
    anyway, I'll take a look at their site and wore case, I'll just have to find out what year, which manual, which part number and see what they can do if I send a few pics as well. Otherwise this thing is gonna turn into an industrial sized paperweight...

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Start by contacting powermatic. It's no guarantee, but they do better than some with old parts stock, and it's free to ask.

  5. #5
    Worst case, you might find a machine shop that could fabricate one for you. Probably not cheap but enough to put another 60 years on the machine.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean schriver View Post
    I found the part numbers from what I think is the correct year manual on vintage machinery. I have a feeling contacting powermatic is going to be wasted effort.
    Get on vintagemachinery's sister site, owwm.org, and ask.
    Chuck Taylor

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Prince Edward Island, Canada's Ocean Playground
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    If you have no luck finding the parts, I would suggest that you find a retired machinist in your area that has a home shop, as he could likely fix you up quickly. A commercial shop will likely cost a fair bit more than you want to spend.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Erik

    Canada's Atlantic Paradise - Prince Edward Island

  8. #8
    I replaced the gib bars on the same machine as yours, and the out feed bed still sagged and it still had to shimmed. I have seen a lot of these dovetail machines over the years with shims in them.
    If the original shims are not bent, file or use a stone on them to remove the ridge around the dimple that the set screws made in them. Flip the gibs over and use the unused side against the set screws.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Quinn View Post
    Start by contacting powermatic. It's no guarantee, but they do better than some with old parts stock, and it's free to ask.
    I tried but they were just as cnfused as I was. they tried sending copies of 2 manuals but both were wrong. they recommended I contact WJ Redmond (Redmond machinery). I will be doing that tomorrow...

  10. #10
    Thanks Phil and everyone else that replied...Yep, looking at those options as well. but at what cost (for machining)? For 1200 I can get a shop fox parallelogram 3 hp...so the parts milling need to justify the cost (bearing cap/bolt and gib shems but someone suggested flipping and reusing which I might do). I am pretty anal about my settings so I am not really feeling shimming/reshimming the outfeed table all the time. it's very time consuming especially if I need to balance left to right and toe to heel. I like to think the old quality machinery is worth it but given the amount of work (hours) and extreme touchiness when trying to shim, I am finding it harder to justify trying to salvage this thing. Even if I can find the right parts, there is no guarantee I can get this thing back to +/- .001/.002 coplanar L/R & T/H and be able to hold it past unlocking the table, setting depth, and making my first pass. (That is the biggest problem right now) I got it really close but as soon as I set to cutting depth, boom, settings way off again which is why I'm tearing it down and really trying to eliminate potential issues keeping it from holding the settings. this is my first big jointer and first time I've tried to level like this to the precision I am now experienced enough to require/want. The shops I have worked at had massive Porters and I seldom saw them being re-leveled. So if any one can talk me into keeping it if I can find the parts, I'm all ears. I'm really quite torn at this point, quality (maybe if I can get it to hold my settings) machinery, or precision/easy to adjust made in Taiwan
    Ohh by the way. The serial number is 0-4567 model:60, so old even powermatic was guessing on which manual to use to look for part numbers, lol...

  11. #11
    I'll be trying that worse case scenario..

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Taylor View Post
    Get on vintagemachinery's sister site, owwm.org, and ask.
    Good Idea...I will try tomorrow night..

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Manchester View Post
    If you have no luck finding the parts, I would suggest that you find a retired machinist in your area that has a home shop, as he could likely fix you up quickly. A commercial shop will likely cost a fair bit more than you want to spend.
    I'll be trying that along with commercial if I have to resort to that.. Thanks!

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    Really depends on the condition of the table and ways. New cast iron isn't spec'd to the .002 you are talking about, more like .005-.010. If the PM has that fine grain Meehanite rated cast iron and flat it is worth some effort. There were lots made so the owwm guys may have some parts. Dave

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by David Werkheiser View Post
    I replaced the gib bars on the same machine as yours, and the out feed bed still sagged and it still had to shimmed. I have seen a lot of these dovetail machines over the years with shims in them.
    If the original shims are not bent, file or use a stone on them to remove the ridge around the dimple that the set screws made in them. Flip the gibs over and use the unused side against the set screws.
    So the counter sunk holes where the gibs seat are not original? They are pretty squished and deformed (look like the gibs were over tightened multiple times and they deformed the original countersinks thus possibly causing my problems?) but you think I can just file them, flip them and re-use? they are otherwise in good condition over-all except for the holes. do I need to counter sink them? my original thought was the countersinks were created when they machined the gib holes after locking and milling the table tops to be coplanar, thus ensuring the tables always lined up coplanar L/R T/H. I don't know how I would accomplish that if that is true without a machine shop re-grinding the tables and then drilling through the gib holes to produce a precise line-up each time I move the infeed table for depth changes or had to move the outfeed table for some reason.
    Can anyone confirm? basically do the gib shims just put binding pressure on the feed beds (thus Davids idea would work) or are they to ensure ( with the countersunk pits and pointed gib screws) the tables always remain precisely in-line with each other even after unlocking, moving, and re locking the tables, mainly the infeed table, thus telling me I am basically screwed and that my infeed table will never hold a consistent tolerance everytime I make a depth adjustment?

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