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Thread: Need Help Specifying A Sign

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    354

    Need Help Specifying A Sign

    I saw this sign on a recent trip to Nashville and would like to create something similar for my new furniture shop.

    I can produce the wood backer but I have no idea what materials or process was used to create the sign or the standoffs.

    I think this one may be glass but I had also thought about having my logo etched on steel if that would even work or look as good.

    I'm not able to make it myself. I need help figuring out what to ask for and where to look.

    Any feedback would be greatly appreciated and if this type of work is up your alley please send me a PM.

    Thanks!

    Joe


    Sign 2.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
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    7,619
    Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like it's printed on vinyl, applied to 1/8" acrylic or PVC board. The standoffs are available at any architectural sign supply, and even Grainger, though I often order them online from Displays2Go or Standoffsystems dot com which has a free catalog. I think I'd use acrylic for the substrate but laser cut 1/8" acrylic lettering and logo for yours, or lose the front part and use laser or waterjet cut metal letters mounted directly to the wood. Brushed stainless would be nice, or rusted steel.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    354
    Joe,

    I'm grateful for your reply.

    So this looks more like a vinyl applique than a laser etched image? I had assumed the latter but I guess you couldn't do color that way. My logo is black text so perhaps laser etching is an option?

    What I like about this sign is the juxtaposition of the old rough wood backer with the sleek modern acrylic/glass plate. I also like the three dimensional texture that the standoffs provide. (Thanks for the resources.)

    I had hoped to hear privately from someone in the Houston, Texas area but I'm sure it could be shipped if someone elsewhere is interested in helping me with this project.

    If anyone else has any ideas, I'd appreciate hearing from you as well.

    Thanks!

    Joe

  4. #4
    Hard to tell from the image, but I would guess that the sign lettering and image was created with a dye sublimation printer.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Hamburg,New York
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    81
    Off hand could it possibly be corian and epoxy filled?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Deep South
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    That would certainly be an excellent application for CNC routed and painted or filled Corian.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
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    It looks flat to me, as if printed.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Lakewood, WA
    Posts
    229
    Looks to me like 1/8" plex b/g with vinyl lettering and logo. The sign overall b/g looks like weathered barn wood or fence boards. You could get the lettering and logo from a local peel and stick store and make your sign yourself.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Hayes, Virginia
    Posts
    13,255
    If it was up to me I would use 1/4" thick Corian for the sign and laser engrave the text and graphics.
    Paint fill to provide the color and contrast.
    I don't think I would use the standoffs to mount the sign on the backer because they don't fit the rustic design. I would glue Corian standoffs on the back of the sign and incorporate stainless steel fasteners into the design but I never drill through the front of any of my signs unless they are glass.
    .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    354
    At this point, my furniture designs are primarily "industrial chic" as they incorporate steel bases with beautiful wood tops. For this reason. I want my sign to mix rustic with modern.

    I don't plan on using the old barn boards as a backer and the ropes can go, too. Instead, I will probably use a piece of live edge, highly figured wood with hangers on the back.

    For the plaque, I'm open to whatever material can be engraved or will hold a vinyl transfer and still look sophisticated. I do want to keep the standoffs as I like the three dimensional effect.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Houston, Texas
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    354
    One more thing - This sign is for interior use only. It will not be exposed to the elements.

  12. #12
    If I were doing it I'd laser engrave from the back of a reverse engravable acylic then color fill with what ever colors you need.

    Michael Kowalczyk is a member here and is in Houston. PM him for ideas.

    The attached photo is an example of clear acrylic that was painted red then engraved and color filled. The picture is bad but the sign looked great.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Mike Null; 07-22-2014 at 3:00 PM.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Evolis Card Printer
    CorelDraw X5

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    354
    I want extend a big THANKS to Sawmill Creek member Don Williams (Michigan) for helping me out on this sign as well as to everyone who took the time to make suggestions on how to accomplish it.

    It is reverse engraved on acrylic with color fill and stainless steel standoffs.

    The wood is a piece of wormy Texas Mesquite that I was saving for a special occasion. It is finished with about eight coats of spray lacquer.

    The sign is mounted on a cross bar of Unistrut with all-thread uprights bolted to L-brackets on the back. (The "Bakery" neon is on a wall 8 feet behind it but doesn't work. My furniture shop is in an old grocery store that has been converted to an antique center and marketplace.)

    I'm very pleased.


    TimberFire Sign Actual.jpg

  14. #14
    Joe, that turned out really nice. Well done to you and all that worked on it!
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Oakland County, Michigan
    Posts
    92
    Looks like a piece of acrylic. It could be clear with the design either painted or vinyl decal on the back to show through and then painted with a lexan friendly paint, Or it could be a white color acrylic with the logo painted or Vinyl decal on the front (most likely the case). The standoffs look pretty standard for commercial signmaking. Very cool sign indeed!

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