Redsail Laser

[Kim McIntosh]

Hi Guys,

First time poster so be gentle. Received my CM1290 130watt about a fortnight ago and thought it would be a fairly easy transition from my home built Joe's CNC to the laser. I expected to be making masterpieces within a day or two - just a bit out on that calculation. With the CNC it all about chip load and speed and couldn't figure out for a day or two why nothing was cutting. Got all that sorted and was happy with the way thing were progressing. Cut a few pieces but thought I could do better. As suggested on here I created a grid of 100 squares and was going to see how the machine performed with all the variable setting. I went out to cut the grid last Sunday and unfortunately this is were I came unstuck. I fired the machine up and moved the head to the center of the table so I could clean the mirrors, turned the machine off, cleaned the mirrors and turned the machine back on. Unfortunately it looks like I have a failed front panel - everything lights up as it should but the control panel is blank. I do have a new control panel and main board coming under warranty, but I was wondering if other users have had a similar problem with the electronics.
All the best
Kim

[Deane Donaghy]

I have a Redsail X700 and I had the small glass fuse that is in the power in socket blow on me.
It took a lot of head scratching to work out was going on and ended fixing myself.

[Kim McIntosh]

Thanks for the response Deane. I know there are a lot of happy Redsail users out there and I will be one of them. All part of the new machine syndrome. It feels like it needs a CTL, ALT, DEL windows fix.

Cheers
Kim

[Kim McIntosh]

Hi All,

After several months of problem free lasering, today one of the leads arced out onto the body of the machine. Would anyone be able to advise why it would arc at this connection. This is the lead that goes from the laser tube power supply to the laser tube. The connection appeared to be tight. Too much power - loose internal fit????
IMG_0035.jpg
Regards
Kim
Redsails CM1290
130Watt

[Mark Sipes]

Electricity travels along the path of least resistance. I would suspect that the connection is corroded/oxidized at the connection.

[Kim McIntosh]

Thanks Mark. Wonder if its worthwhile cleaning it up, wrapping some electrical tape around the connector and retrying? The controller reset itself back to Chinese.

[joe claudio]

Hello Kim,
As previoulsy stated electricty follows the path of least resistance. That being said it is to your advantage to take apart the the conenctor, clean and check it. Those connectors are pretty "fail safe"- But things do fail .Perhaps you have a moisture problem? some thing leaking ? as far as just using eletrical tape , use the RIGHT kind. regualr electical tape is rated for ( depending on quality ) 300-600v at 80 degrees, Not what you want. there is a product available at electric supply houses, Im sorry that the specfic product name escapes me , but its made by 3M and is used to wrap the connectors to the wires that supply the power to your house- on the pole.its a double sided super sticky 1/8 inch rubber "pad". You could also try using whats called Friction tape, or self vulconising tape. it comes on a small roll. If you need to reaplce the connector and or wire, go to www.lightobjects.com they sell the connetors and wire.

-j

[Dave Sheldrake]

Nope, don't try fixing, it won't last, the tracking of the carbon provides a wonderful path for the HT to follow, once they get cooked like that it's far better to just replace them.

[Kim McIntosh]

Thanks guys, I appreciate your help. On closer inspection the internals of the connector don't look salvageable. I had ordered replacement leads before I posted but needed to get a couple of jobs out, hence my question. My machine is still under warranty but unfortunately the support is the other side of Oz 4,000km away. Doesn't appear to be any moisture or loose connections just one of those things. I guess I'll twiddle my thumbs and clean my shed for a day or two.
Cheers

[Rich Harman]

I have had no choice but to cut and solder the HV lines when replacing tubes. I used many layers of electrical tape and did not have any problems the first time. The third time however, I did encounter some arcing. Running low on electrical tape I used some 20 mil PVC pipe wrap. That did the trick. I followed up with some more for good measure.

[Dave Sheldrake]

Grab some 12mm OD 6mm ID silicon hose and run that over the full length of the HT line, it will reduce the chances of a trackout in future

[Ray Scott]

The solution for this part is to cut and solder the wires. Make sure to insulate the wires with silicone tape. Normal vinyl electrical tape is not good enough for the high voltage. The problem is not the connector.

The real problem is in the "path of least resistance". If the electricity is jumping to the frame, then the tube is failing or the return voltage wire is not connected correctly.

[Kim McIntosh]

Good suggestion Dave, I'll definitely do that. Ray, just checked the return voltage wire, seems to be fine. For whatever reason, the wire has been joined halfway down the length of the tube with what looks like a thinner gauge wire than what actually comes out of the power supply. Sure hope your wrong about the tube failing. I've asked for my supplier to replace the power supply as there is no disconnect for the high voltage line. After all, its still under warranty.
Cheers
Kim