Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: Need circular saw advice.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Fort Wayne IN
    Posts
    1,210

    Need circular saw advice.

    Looking to buy a circular saw to be used on "rare" occasions to cut sheet goods. Any advice for a mid to low priced saw? I do not want junk but do not need all of the fancy stuff like a brake, laser, etc. I just need a basic saw. I plan to make my own guides to use to cut down the sheets. I have like three storage projects for my shop and after that it will sit on a shelf for a while as I am just not a sheet goods guy. At least not yet. LOL

    Thanks
    Sometimes decisions from the heart are better than decisions from the brain.

    Enjoy Life...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    River Falls WI
    Posts
    490
    First check out Craig's list for one of the better ones' used. I have the 71/4" Dewalt It was a gift, I like it for the heavy work. For smaller work I have the corded C-Man 5 1/2" trim saw. I do not think they make it anymore. If looking today for one I would try the Hitachi, which goes around here for about $70. The other one which costs a little more is the Milwaukee Tilt-lock. It allows you to keep the handle in the same orientation when you need to make a shallow cut. Stay away from the barging brands if you want to use it all the time or want accuracy. Good Luck. Dan
    Last edited by Dan Rude; 06-08-2014 at 4:30 PM. Reason: sp

  3. #3
    I like my old trusty Porter Cable 146A

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
    Posts
    2,340
    I've got an old Porter Cable 7-1/4" framing saw and like it. But for what your needs are, just go to Amazon and read the reviews on lower priced saws and pick one.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    San Bernardino
    Posts
    203
    I have a Dewalt DWE 575 with a Diablo thin kerf 60T Ultra Fine blade. With a guide it will cut a glue ready, chip free cut. I bought mine for just the same reason - cutting sheet goods.

    It is light and easy to use. I had been using a Skil 77 - about 15 pounds and it is a left cut framing saw. The Dewalt is a right cut saw with a nice plate that rides a guide easily. It weighs about half what the Skil 77 does.

    After having use it for a couple of jobs, I would buy the same saw.

    For short crosscuts I bought a Kreg guide. It has worked well. It is plastic so cannot be abused, but is accurate.

    The saw was about 120 (mine is the one without the brake) at Lowes (HD does not carry it in their stores in my area) and the Kreg guide was about 12 or 14 at Lowes. I don't remember what the blade cost (bought it at HD).

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,824
    I use a Porter cable with magnesium body.

    It requires a proper guide, for the best results in plywood.

    Blade choice with plywood is important.
    I use a Tenryu and like the finish it leaves.

    I'm migrating to a Jigsaw with one of the beefy Bosch T-shank blades.
    It's easier to handle, and has almost zero chip out.

    r46312v33.png
    Last edited by Jim Matthews; 06-08-2014 at 7:53 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Fort Wayne IN
    Posts
    1,210
    Hmmmmm....

    I have a nice DW331 jigsaw. maybe I will give that a try first.
    Sometimes decisions from the heart are better than decisions from the brain.

    Enjoy Life...

  8. #8
    Cordless saws are really coming along. If you don't use it much and don't already have a set, you might look into a kit with drills/batteries/circular saw from one of the main manufacturers. Unless you are doing a lot of heavy work the cordless is a lot handier, if you pick a good set you'll get good utility out of the other items.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Leesville, SC
    Posts
    2,378
    My favorite is the Makita.......
    Army Veteran 1968 - 1970
    I Support the Second Amendment of the US Constitution

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,824
    Quote Originally Posted by Raymond Fries View Post
    Hmmmmm....

    I have a nice DW331 jigsaw. maybe I will give that a try first.
    Bosch makes a T shank and a U shank version of those blades.
    FWW did a piece discussing these and I've been really surprised at the cut quality.

    I use the beefiest version, the T308B.

    For sheet goods, I really like them.
    For hardwood, they're good for crosscutting
    but wander on long rip cuts.

    http://woodworking.about.com/od/wood...BoschT308B.htm

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    1,830
    What ever saw you buy, if you are going to break down full sheets of plywood for projects, you are going to need a fine tooth blade for this new saw. You are also going to need to create a zero clearance base for this saw to minimize chipping of the edges of the cut and you are going to need a good straight edge that you can guide the saw along for straight cuts. Circular saws straight from the factory all seem to be designed with the framing carpenter in mind who doesn't care if his cuts are chipped and splintered or slightly out of square. You are going to need to perform some upgrades to make it work for cabinet and furniture making.

    Charley

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,551
    Using even a homemade guide along with a good quality blade can produce some pretty nice cuts. I made two guides, one a little over 4' and one a little over 8'. The 8' guide is a little awkward to store. The guide is 1/4" plywood with a straight fence for the base of the saw's base plate to ride against. I also prefer the P-C 314 trim saw on this type guide. The fact that it's longer than it is wide seems to make it easier to track against the fence without wanting to twist. Make the 1/4" ply wider than the saw's base then once the fence is secured, run the saw along the fence thus creating a zero clearance edge. That seems to help reduce chipout. I doubt this is a substitute for a real track saw but it works pretty well.

    I read once that saws with cast and machined base plates tend to be flatter and more accurate than saws with stamped base plates. I don't know if it's true or not.

  13. #13
    For occasional use? Get a Skilsaw. I have a 20+ year old Skilsaw 5150 that still going strong, though it's been regulated to cutting masonry blocks now. I have a newer Skilsaw for cutting up sheet goods and rough cutting lumber. When I framed houses eons ago my boss was fond of Milwaukee and Makita saws. I always liked the Makita the best.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    835
    I just did this. I also needed a drill/driver set so got one of the Makita 18v sets at Home Depot where they give you a free battery or tool. I chose the circular saw and used it on 1/2" CDX plywood. It cut great and was light to handle.

  15. #15
    I wouldn't make the final cut with the circular saw... I would cut oversize, and trim on the table saw. (Response to Charley's post.)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •