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Thread: Which Router Table

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Pottstown PA
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    972
    My top is 26"x46" by 1 5/8" thick. It's a heavy beast of two 3/4" pieces of mdf with formica on top and wrapped in oak. It just sets on top with struts that set down in the opening for the cavity that holds the router. It's so heavy with router, lift, and top, that it does not budge. I just clamp the fence to the top so it's easily removed and put back on. Here's a link to some diff views. BTW, I snagged the fence on the old knots forum for sale for a song. That was way back in the days when people still went there. I have way less in mine than new and way better features as well. But hey some people don't like building shop furniture, so I fully understand.

    https://flic.kr/s/aHsjY6e4rF

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    I have the Incra setup: router table + MastRLiftII + LS Positioner and wonderfence.

    I really like my set up because the lift allows above-the-table changes and super precise setup. The Incra has magnetic insert rings, so swapping them out is easy. They are also nice and durable.

    But the real magic with the Incra set up is the LS positioner. Unlike most other fences, it uses a deep carriage that makes setting and micro-adjusting depth extremely precise. I did two entertainment cabinets with this set up. Dialing in the rails and stiles was super easy.

    The Wonderfence has a split face with wedges behind each half. This makes shimming them very easy. When i had to joint 1/64" off the bottoms or sides of the cabinets so they'd fit, it was a joy.

    I have this same setup and it works nicely for me. I'm considering adding Jessem stock guides.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Misawa, Japan. Summers in Virginia.
    Posts
    300
    Of the choices listed, I would recommend #3. For the work intended, I concur with Scott, get a shaper.

  4. #19
    Those who recommend a shaper over a router table seem somewhat ill informed. There is some cross over between the two machines, but a shaper does not replace a router table as a router table does not replace a shaper. In addition, shaper tooling can be prohibitively expensive. The OP likely has a collection of router tooling that would make a new router table a versatile addition on day one. On the other hand a shaper would require hundreds if not thousands of dollars in additional tooling before being really useful.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
    Posts
    2,340
    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    Those who recommend a shaper over a router table seem somewhat ill informed. There is some cross over between the two machines, but a shaper does not replace a router table as a router table does not replace a shaper. In addition, shaper tooling can be prohibitively expensive. The OP likely has a collection of router tooling that would make a new router table a versatile addition on day one. On the other hand a shaper would require hundreds if not thousands of dollars in additional tooling before being really useful.
    OP: "My priority is satisfaction. I want to be COMPLETELY satisfied with my purchase hands down - $$ not a consideration."

    I've built hundreds of doors on a router table and stand by my recommendation to consider a shaper for this type of work. As I mentioned, I spoke with Marc Sommerfeld on the subject of raised panel router bits on a shaper and he thought it would work fine as he recommends slower RPM's on his profiling bits anyway. So no, I am not ill informed in recommending the OP at least consider a shaper. 3HP Grizzly $1,200 delivered. Add a small feeder and $1,600. A decent router table/fence/motor/table etc is well over a grand and will require much more effort to produce consistent quality door profiling IMO .
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Misawa, Japan. Summers in Virginia.
    Posts
    300
    Interesting, didn't realize this would turn into a shaper vs router debate. Years ago, having attended one of Lonnie Bird's two week classes, who wrote "The Shaper Book", and upon seeing a shaper properly used, I decided to buy a shaper. Not a big one, just a 1.5HP Grizzly, right now on sale for $555, and spent about $400 on the bits I use, I found that I greatly prefer the shaper, and is a joy to use. I find the shaper does run slower, but provides a consistent cut, doesn't even slow down, and seldom makes a blemish or burn on what I shape. Now, I do have a router table too, and it does have some advantages at times. I have quite a bit more money invested in router stuff than the shaper, but I suppose it could go either way.

    So, Scott +1 on the shaper idea. Guess I will head out to the shop to enjoy cutting a few shapes, and then reread "The Shaper Book" for if I remember correctly there were some neat things that Lonnie showed. I so do want to be well informed.

  7. #22
    Do you mind telling me what else you use the shaper for? I really like the idea of it not burning or the cuts being consistent. I can sell my lift and would go this way if the shaper is $555. The cast iron top I was about to purchase is $364, and the PC 7218 router is $254, not mentioning the fence and then I have to build the cabinet. If this is only $555, then I can sell my Jessum and just build an extension onto the shaper. They don't have extensions you can purchase right?

    Thanks for adding the info on the benefits of the shaper - I did look into it, but they seemed to run the same cost as the router and I didn't see the benefits - this really helps. I'm about to do some value shopping now. See if I can find it on Ebay, Craigslist or the classifieds....

    Nathalee

  8. #23
    Just to clarify - I am a 115lb woman woodworker and I occasionally like to do work when hubby isn't home. I work with large pieces up to 8ft tall and lifting the wood isn't the big deal, it is supporting it ALL the way through the router without rushing it. So I would like to have a LONG table or something that will work well with extensions.

    I'm still looking for this Grizzly.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Los Chavez, New Mexico
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  10. #25
    Okay 1 last question - I am down to the fence now and I've decided to take the Incra - this table top is cast iron.

    I know I want the Wonder Fence, but do I need the LS Positioner? They have the Wonderfence stand alone for about $210, they have the Wonder Fence upgrade for about $140 but you of course have to have the positioner. Or I could get a set with the entire setup for about $339.

    Since my top is cast iron - will the positioner be worth it especially since I've heard you have to attach the positioner by drilling holes in the top of the cast iron table top...???

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
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    2,340
    Quote Originally Posted by Nathalee Jones View Post
    I work with large pieces up to 8ft tall and lifting the wood isn't the big deal, it is supporting it ALL the way through the router without rushing it. So I would like to have a LONG table or something that will work well with extensions.

    This is where a shaper with a power feeder will outperform a router table IMO. Unless you can rig up a power feeder on your router table you will find it difficult to get consistent quality output running long stock across a router table.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Misawa, Japan. Summers in Virginia.
    Posts
    300
    Nathalee,
    When I bought my shaper, I did also purchase two additional wings, all cast iron, which bolt on just like the wings on a table saw. I think there are predrilled bolt patterns on three sides of the top. For big objects, as on any tool (table saw, bandsaw, etc) I use additional tables and rollers on the infeeds and outfeeds. Hope it all works out for you.

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