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Thread: moving motor on contractor saw under table

  1. #1

    moving motor on contractor saw under table

    I have a Ridgid TS3650 and love it! My only problem is when we moved I have a smaller workspace so I need to save EVERY inch. I've considered moving the motor to tuck it low and UNDER the table (like it would be on a cabinet saw) and using a longer belt. Especially with any tilt I know that would be a problem if I were to just remount it, but has anyone seen this done? I couldn't find any resources that recommended how or if it was possible. I'm pretty handy and willing to do a bit of metalworking to make any brackets etc. that might be needed to make this a possibility...if it could work.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Eastern Oregon
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    367
    Barry,
    Better be ready to cut the side out of your saw base for the motor when tilted. I hear you about saving all the space you can but would sure look at some other option. If you work like I do, when using the saw, more often than not I need an out feed table so the motor is not a space issue then. I would be more inclined to do something with the motor mounts to make the motor quick to remove when not in use and re-install easy with no alignment or adjustment issues when needed. If you do come up with a plan to mount the motor underneath though, please post it here. I'm sure a number of us would like to hear it.
    Dick

  3. #3
    I do not think it will be worth the trouble.

    The trunnions of a contractor saw are not designed for this and the casting that holds the arbor is not either. In a cabinet saw the motor is usually mounted up pretty close to the arbor.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
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    4,717
    I think you'd completely lose the ability to tilt the saw, unless you do some serious (and unproven) rework....in which case, it'd be easier to sell the saw and buy one with an inboard motor.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Eastern Oregon
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    367
    Barry,
    You have the old creative juices going with your idea. Could be done with a 90 degree gear box and a belt tensioner or two but I have to agree with Scott on this one. As I said, I am sure it could work but more than likely take more than one try to get it right.
    Dick

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Shorewood, WI
    Posts
    897
    While using the saw, you'll always need outfeed space, so it might make sense to put your design work toward some kind of combination-use outfeed table/cabinet instead. If you are concerned about space while storing the saw, overlap with another carefully designed cabinet or tool stand might help. If you decide you absolutely need the motor under the saw during storage, it need not be functional at the time, so there's no need to allow for tilt. The challenge would be to convert between forms quickly. Even then, except for price the most efficient approach would be to get a different saw.
    Last edited by Alan Schwabacher; 05-29-2014 at 12:06 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Wilmington Island, Ga
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    654
    I'm really sorry but this post has bad idea written all over it.

    Unless you have some seriously good skills (and even then) I would never encourage the proposed idea listed above.
    So many chances for error.

    Sell the saw and get a cabinet saw, you will NEVER regret it.
    Husband to 1, father to 9
    2 girls and 7 boys (in that order)
    Life Is Full Of Blessings
    The Lord is my Rock and my Refuge.

  8. #8
    Thanks for all the input, guys. I've got plenty of room for when I work with the saw, and I've purposefully built my other shop furniture at the appropriate height to be used for outfeed and other support tables. I was only concerned with storage when the saw wasn't in use. After reading all your thoughts and input, it seems I'll be best served just removing the motor each time I store it away and sliding the motor back into place when I'm ready to use. That only takes a couple of minutes and I can mark the exact location on the mounting hardware to be sure I set the right belt tension. Sometimes, easy (even when not ideal) is best.

    I've used some awesome cabinet saws (including Powermatic PM66 and newer Delta Unisaw) and still enjoy my Ridgid TS3650 - mostly because it meets my needs and the Herculift lets me move it around as needed. Maybe one day I can have a 36x50 dedicated shop like my dad did (*I'm just a little jealous*) and get one of the "big boy" saws.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    S.E. Tennessee ... just a bit North of Chattanooga
    Posts
    1,018
    If you've ever attended "the Woodworking Show", you've probably seen a vendor there (Jerry Cole - IN-LINE INDUSTRIES) selling his DUBBY JIG. For his demonstrations, he uses a super-tuned Craftsman Contractor Saw with the motor mounted underneath. I've never seen him make anything but a 90 deg. cut, so I don't know if it is even possible with his setup ... BUT ... he has been using the same saw at the shows for over 20 years suffering no apparent ill effects from his mounting method. If you really want to pursue your idea, you might be able to contact him for some pointers.

  10. #10
    I had an old saw where the motor was mounted out the back and the belt would twist when the arbor was tilted. The motor was on a couple of rails with v-groove wheels and would slide back and forth with maybe 3 inches of travel.
    Last edited by Loren Woirhaye; 05-29-2014 at 11:18 AM.

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