OK...this is the year...I'm going for it...

[David Weaver]

I'd focus on doing a good job with the grind and working as little metal as possible. Personally, would keep using the dry grinder if you're using it and you can get an accurate close-to-the-edge grind. Of course, you can do the same thing with the wet grinder, too.

Just grind a good primary, lift the iron a degree or two and work the edge a little bit and the back generously.

[Harold Burrell]

I'd focus on doing a good job with the grind and working as little metal as possible. Personally, would keep using the dry grinder if you're using it and you can get an accurate close-to-the-edge grind. Of course, you can do the same thing with the wet grinder, too.

Just grind a good primary, lift the iron a degree or two and work the edge a little bit and the back generously.

Yeah. That is the way I was going to approach it, hollow ground and as little metal as possible on the stones.

[Mark Engel]

I don't get it.

Why give up the jigs? Is it just to save the 28 seconds it takes to put the tool in the jig?

I just don't get it. I can change channels on the TV without the remote, but I see no real need to do that either.

[Andrew Fleck]

I don't get it.

Why give up the jigs? Is it just to save the 28 seconds it takes to put the tool in the jig?

I just don't get it. I can change channels on the TV without the remote, but I see no real need to do that either.

For me, I like being able to just grab my iron or chisel and just put it the stone without messing around with a jig of some sort. The final straw for jigs with me was a narrow chisel that kept slipping in my jig. I also think honing freehand sets you up well for times when a jig may not work with whatever you are trying to hone.

Your analogy kind of works for freehanding. I can sharpen on my stone with a jig, but I see no real need to do that.

[Mark Engel]

Your analogy kind of works for freehanding. I can sharpen on my stone with a jig, but I see no real need to do that.

Well, that's a good point. Jigs and water stones do not get along. At least the jigs that want to ride on the stone.

[David Weaver]

I don't get it.

Why give up the jigs? Is it just to save the 28 seconds it takes to put the tool in the jig?

I just don't get it. I can change channels on the TV without the remote, but I see no real need to do that either.

it's to sharpen things that don't fit in jigs, to sharpen in ways not convenient in jigs (high amounts of camber), to use more of the stone, to not have to find the jig, to not have to get rust off of the wheel of the jig or grit out of the wheel on the jig, etc. Lots of reasons.

Though using a jig is perfectly acceptable, especially if you are intending to get something extremely precise from it (like charlesworth's measured method of getting just enough camber to never see a track on a finished surface).

[Jim Matthews]

Funny you brought that up...because I very well may shoot myself before this is over.

You do need to keep the cleaning kits and sharpening bits separated.
They're of little utility in alternate applications.

[Jim Matthews]

I don't know what steel is in your chisels or plane irons, and that's worth consideration.

I traded off a set of Blue Spruce chisels that were nearly impossible to hone free-hand.
I can get a dull factory ground Marples from unusable to paring endgrain in about ten minutes.

It bears mentioning that freehand methods require considerable force be applied,
and can easily gouge a softer material as exemplified by Shapton stones.

DAMHIKT

The height of the bench is important, you want to engage larger muscle groups
as it's strenuous, and the angle imparted depends on that height as well.

I've seen some get great results freehand honing on the floor, but my knees won't tolerate this position.

I recommend the Atoma #140, #1000 and a strop with Chromium oxide to start out.

I like the Diamond plates because they don't require flattening before use, and can
be lubricated with light oil. I didn't like the mess from waterstones.

So, to recap - what steel will you be honing?

[Harold Burrell]

So, to recap - what steel will you be honing?

Mostly O1 and old plane irons and chisels (although I do have some A2 and one PMV-11).

[Steve Voigt]

Jim, I don't agree that freehand methods per se require a great deal of downforce; I think that's just a characteristic of the technique Sellers espouses. Riding the hollow, as Harold is talking about, is more of a finesse technique and works just fine on soft stones. On narrow or curved tools, one can avoid the problem of digging in by exerting force primarily on the pull stroke.

[Brian Holcombe]

I freehand A2 regularly and I don't find it to be particularly difficult. I start with a 1k whetstone and move up to a 6k stone. For regular maintenance I use a 6k stone, then a couple quick swipes on a makeshift strop.

Seller's method is fine, however, I would not get overaggressive with raising the blade to make the burr. This works beautifully until it doesn't and then you have to regrind the bevel, so if you do the majority of the honing on the major bevel and lift if for a few strokes to get the wire edge it will take a very long time before you have to regrind the bevel.

[Jim Matthews]

By way of clarification - I don't use a hollow grind.

I'm making a convex bevel on my plane irons and chisels.
The objective is to raise a burr, quickly.

Downforce is a component of this, and the "cutting" stroke is in the forward direction.

Using a guide, force was imparted while drawing the steel backward
not in the forward direction.

F=MA

If the spinning wheel is removed, you can impart the same force either
by moving the steel quickly over the plate, pressing harder or both.

[Winton Applegate]

or you need professional help.

As I said takes one to know . . .
what one is going through.

I had professional help once; the poor person acted very disturbed after we had, what I thought was, a rather plesant chat and asked me if I would please go away. I asked if there were any other of her colleges who might want to visit with me and she said certainly not.

Not sure what all that was about but soon after I took up hand tool wood working and felt right as rain.
. . .
. . .er . . what were we talking about . . .

[Winton Applegate]

Jigs and water stones do not get along. At least the jigs that want to ride on the stone.

Really . . .

I have been sharpening with a jig on water stones now for more than ten years and have not had any problems. Always with a jig with a roller of some sort that runs on top of the stone.

I must be doing it wrong.
Maybe with your coaching I too can begin to see the errors of the water stone way.

Now granted this first photo is on a diamond plate but I am using water.
I do the same on the water stones, see second photo.

I put the blade in the jig, put the jig and blade on the stone, pull the blade and jig down the stone, lift and repeat.

I know I am missing an important “technique” here. What do you think ?






By the way the above photo shows the “mess” of using water stones. I seem to be failing there as well. I am just not getting the full message that I should be.

How can I get on top of this aspect as well (so to speak) ?