Alignment of Main Table With Cutter Head - 20" Planer

[Mike Chalmers]

I recently purchased a CX 20 from Busy Bee (AKA GO454, Yorkcraft 20" planer etc). Finally got around to applying my dial gauge. I have found that there is a difference of almost 1/100th inch in the distance between the main table and the cutterhead on one side and the other. I can find no instructions hoe to adjust either the cutterhead to the main table.
As I see it, I have two choices. I can try to set the blades in such a way as to cancel out the difference, or adjust the bottom rollers to compensate. I believe the former would be just ridiculously difficult, so I am leaning towards adjusting the rollers.
I guess another option would be to just say to he77 with it and ensure I flip the board over to even out the cut.
If anyone is aware of how to adjust the table or cutter head, do tell.
If anyone has facts to support the concept of adjusting the rollers or blades to compensate, or for just leaving it be, I am also interested.
Opinions based on logic are also welcome.

[J.R. Rutter]

I don't have my SHopFox 20" any more, but I think that there is a chain drive for raising and lowering. So a chain spins a height adjuster screw at each of the four columns. Usually with this sort of mechanism, there is a way to loosen the sprockets on one side, turn the chain to adjust the side that is still connected, then retighten the sprockets when the table is parallel to the cutterhead. Does that make sense?

[scott vroom]

Have you contacted the manufacturer for technical support?

[David Kumm]

There is always a way to adjust the tables to level. I've adjusted the chain drive and gone the easy route of slipping a shim under the low side of the table. Do not use the knives or the rollers to make the correction. That will insure you have snipe and a bunch of other problems. Surprised the manual doesn't cover it. Dave

[Rod Sheridan]

Adjusting the drive chain is the correct method..............Regards, Rod.

[Mike Chalmers]

I shall have a look at the leveling ideas with regards to the table. I am hopeful that it is as easy as a set screw in the gear wheel that, when loosened, will allow mw to nudge the rod up or down.
Thanks for solid ideas.

[Mike Chalmers]

Have you contacted the manufacturer for technical support?

If it was the Grizzly clone, it would be worth a shot. The Canadian clone, sold by Busy Bee, not so much. From past experience, not worth the time trying to explain, and then receive a detailed answer, unfortunately, not to the question asked.

[Mike Chalmers]

Surprised the manual doesn't cover it. Dave

I actually downloaded the Grizzly manual as well, much better book. Not discussed in either. I guess they take it as a given that the factory settings are correct.

[Rod Sheridan]

I shall have a look at the leveling ideas with regards to the table. I am hopeful that it is as easy as a set screw in the gear wheel that, when loosened, will allow mw to nudge the rod up or down.
Thanks for solid ideas.

You'll either heve to remove the chain and rotate the rods to level it before putting the cahin on or loosen a setscrew and rotate the rod.......Regards, Rod.

[Peter Quinn]

Down load a Delta manual, it walks you though the process on the DC-380, I'm sure you can extrapolate from there. Or maybe a dc-580 manual is more helpful? If you are saying the tables are out .001" from left to right, I'm saying leave that alone. If you are saying they are out .010", that has to be fixed or it will make you nuts. I adjusted mine on the DC-380, some of the least fun I ever had but has never needed it again in 7 years. Mine was out almost 1/32" over 15".

Found it...powermatic 209 manual


http://content.powermatic.com/assets...296_man_EN.pdf

looks like a basic four poster your talking about, the PM 209 should be similar and PM manual explains it well.

[glenn bradley]

I have a G0453Z and it is a bit different but, is this difference between the knife and the table? If so just adjust the knives to be parallel to the table. If I've missed the mark, look at the Grizzly parts diagram page 61. The leadscrew nut (324) and hex bolts (323) could be checked for tightness; the bolts that is. The drive gears at the end of the leadscrews are keyed. I suppose it is possible that the gear is loose on one or more shafts. these can be seen (with difficulty) by removing the front and rear base panels. Just an idea for something to check out.

[david paul miller]

by loosening the chain and turning a sprocket to skip one tooth I got my go453z parallel . 1 tooth=1/100th

[Justin Ludwig]

I have the G0453Z as well. I had to clean and rotate a few teeth on it yesterday so I decided to put my new multigauge to use and check everything. I originally did it with 2 blocks of wood almost 2 years ago.

My table was .008 out of whack from L-to-R. While it's not the same planer, it sure looks the same. I loosened the 2 allen bolts at the jack screws on the side that was high, rotated the handle half a turn forward then backward, tapped the table with a deadblow, then checked for co-planer. It's within .001".

I highlighted the where the allen bolts are in red. If this is the correct method, I'm not 100%. The book mentions nothing of leveling the table to blade. It worked for me and took 5 minutes. I tested two strips of poplar on both ends after all my calibrations and they planed to within .002" of each other. If that's not accurate enough, I'll find another career path.

I hope you figure it out.

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[Justin Ludwig]

by loosening the chain and turning a sprocket to skip one tooth I got my go453z parallel . 1 tooth=1/100th

Sounds a lot easier than what I did. I'll remember that if it ever gets outta whack.

[Don Jarvie]

My suggestion is to find the widest board you have and run it through a few times and measure each side. If its noticeable fix it, if not leave it.