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Thread: Crown Molding Question

  1. #1
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    Crown Molding Question

    I am going to put up crown molding in a room and have discovered that in one corner the ceiling line rises about 3/8" starting about 18" from the corner. I am looking for suggestions on how to handle this. I have thought about building a built-in corner shelf unit in that corner and putting the crown around the top of it. I would still have to deal with the rise, but I would have a joint at each side of the corner shelf unit to make the adjustment.
    I don't know if I could start the crown in that corner and bend it to follow the ceiling line or not--or how noticeable it would be.
    I'm looking for suggestions. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    You didn't mention whether the ceiling corrects back to level after it rises, or if it just continues on at 3/8" above the starting corner. You also didn't mention whether the change in plane that occurs at 18" is abrupt or if the ceiling begins gradually rising at that point and ends 3/8" higher at the other end. Not enough info really to make any suggestions. A pic would help, as would a more detailed description of your situation.
    Last edited by scott vroom; 05-20-2014 at 12:30 PM.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  3. #3
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    I have glued on a long tapered strip to overcome ceiling irregularities in the past, I have used a 3rd hand clamp to push an errant piece if sheet rock up....drywallers don't always buckle down every seam. And I have been able to bend thin/ smaller crowns in more complaint species to an imperfect ceiling. Strategy sort of depends on the crown and field conditions .

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Quinn View Post
    I have glued on a long tapered strip to overcome ceiling irregularities in the past, I have used a 3rd hand clamp to push an errant piece if sheet rock up....drywallers don't always buckle down every seam. And I have been able to bend thin/ smaller crowns in more complaint species to an imperfect ceiling. Strategy sort of depends on the crown and field conditions .
    Yes- and sometimes it makes sense to split the difference. IOW, make the tapered strip 3/16 and bend the crown 3/16.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    You didn't mention whether the ceiling corrects back to level after it rises, or if it just continues on at 3/8" above the starting corner. You also didn't mention whether the change in plane that occurs at 18" is abrupt or if the ceiling begins gradually rising at that point and ends 3/8" higher at the other end. Not enough info really to make any suggestions. A pic would help, as would a more detailed description of your situation.
    This occurs approaching a corner and the adjacent wall continues level with the 3/8" rise. It is a gradual taper. The crown is 3 1/4" oak with 45 degree spring angles. ceiling.jpg
    Last edited by Bob Vavricka; 05-20-2014 at 2:03 PM. Reason: add pic

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Quinn View Post
    I have glued on a long tapered strip to overcome ceiling irregularities in the past, I have used a 3rd hand clamp to push an errant piece if sheet rock up....drywallers don't always buckle down every seam. And I have been able to bend thin/ smaller crowns in more complaint species to an imperfect ceiling. Strategy sort of depends on the crown and field conditions .
    I hadn't thought of adding a tapered strip, which may come in handy later, but I don't think it will work very good for my situation where the rise ends in the corner and the adjacent wall continues at that height. I think I would have trouble making a suitable joint. It is oak 3 1/4 inch crown.

  7. #7
    Position a piece of crown in each corner of the room as if you were going to install it there and mark the bottom of the crown.
    Use a chalk line to connect the marks on each wall. Install the crown on the line.

  8. #8
    In my experience, every answer you've gotten is correct.
    Here's my take on it: I'd do what Jeff suggests, but I'd pre-finish the crown first, then caulk the top into the ceiling to fill any gaps. Pre-finishing allows you to wipe the crown with a wet rag to get any extra caulk off.
    Paul

  9. #9
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    Since the crown projects out from the wall, the gap will be less where it meets the ceiling. Probably caulkable with something like Big Stretch. Another way would be to parge the area out flat with a couple of layers of compound, but then you'd have to paint the ceiling

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