Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 21

Thread: Large square recommendations

  1. #1

    Large square recommendations

    I've been working on some shop cabinets lately and cutting up full sheets of plywood with a circular saw and guide. The framing square I just bought turned out to be 3/16" off when I got it home to check it, so I'm returning it and want to find something better. I'm looking for a 18" x 24" or around that size. It's a real shame you can't even get a decent square from the BORG for the $15 I paid for it.

    Better yet, has anyone made their own squares?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,824
    Our very own Mike Allen has, based on Jim Tolpin's design.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...moothing-plane

    I use the Eurekazone saw guide and need only to drop a line to get my panels square.

    Similar guides are available from makers to fit their proprietary saws.

    The Eurekazone system has an adapter that fits your current saw.
    (Presuming you're happy with it.)

    http://www.eurekazone.com/

  3. #3
    Framing squares can be adjusted. If you want an accurate square you're going to have to spend some money. $15 barely buys a burger and fries with a drink nowadays, it surely won't get you any precision machining.

  4. For dropping a line on sheet goods that is square to an edge, have you tried the old 3-4-5 right triangle method. This would yield a lot better than the 3/16" out of square square that you purchased.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,576
    What brand did you purchase? I've had decent luck with Empire stuff from Home Depot. When buying a framing square, I take a few of them (assuming the display is well stocked) and find a flat surface. Stand them on the flat surface back to back. For two squares to meet edge to edge with no gap and not be square would require the same degree of error in opposite directions. That seems unlikely to me. I also have a Lee Valley square made in Japan that I use as a 'standard'. I didn't pay any $72.50 for it though.
    Last edited by Curt Harms; 05-08-2014 at 8:09 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    7,655
    Blog Entries
    1
    I bet Lee Valley or Tools for Working Wood can help you with a square that is indeed square.

    I did buy a framing square from Lowes that is square. Check them out before you take it home.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
    Posts
    3,857
    Woodpeckers. Ain't cheap though. Good stuff. Made in USA. I have their 18" triangle. Almost bought their 18x24 square.

  8. #8
    It is an empire brand square purchased from Home depot. When I return it I'll check out some more in the store and see if any are square, otherwise I'll look into the 3 4 5 method.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Austin Texas
    Posts
    1,957
    Johnny kind of called it like it is up above. 1) Buy a more expensive square, and Woodpeckers does make very good (costly like all Wpeckers stuff) square. This may be the option if you want a square to use as your benchmark square for future work and you sort of prorate the cost (mind game anyway) out over many years of use. 2) Build your own square. Doable - like building a jig - if you take the time and care to fab it up as dead-on square as you can get it and make it from stable, durable materials. Some folks can do/like to do that sort of stuff, some don't. 3) Adjust a cheaper, aluminum square bought from the Borg by scribing a centerline at the 90 deg corner and using a center punch to either close or open the angle slightly. Probably won't get it dead-on to within thousandths, but way better than 3/16". While the 3-4-5 method works, in my opinion it is a bit fiddly to use when making repetitive cuts on a sheet of plywood. I feel the 3-4-5 method works better when squaring forms for slab pours, squaring framed walls, etc. and, if you are going to continue building things in the shop, you may as well have a decent square you can depend on, however you decide to acquire one. My thoughts anyway.
    David

  10. #10
    After looking at the Woodpeckers framing square, I would consider spending the money for the quality square that it is. Problem is that this looks like it was a one time tool, from 2012, should I email them to see if they have any?

    http://www.woodpeck.com/2616squarewp.html

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,750
    Make your own. 3-4-5 never fails. You can make it out of anything you want, any size you want, from scraps you probably have on hand. If you need or want a different size in a week or a month or a year it will be easy and cheap to make another. They will be more accurate than all but the most expensive ones you can buy, and just as accurate as those.

    John

  12. #12
    John, do you have any solid info for techniques building a shop made square? I am a machinist and can probably make one on the mill, but finding the table space and time may be difficult.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
    Posts
    3,857
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Woloshyn View Post
    After looking at the Woodpeckers framing square, I would consider spending the money for the quality square that it is. Problem is that this looks like it was a one time tool, from 2012, should I email them to see if they have any?

    http://www.woodpeck.com/2616squarewp.html
    Call them up and ask. They are very nice. They might tell you if they are gearing up for them again. If enough people ask for an item they will make it again. A lot of their one time stuff comes up every 1-2 years.

  14. Framing squares can be peened to open or close the angle. This is a maintenance thing that needs to get done as they get dropped in use. If you want to use a framing square for laying out square cabinet cuts, tuning a square is not that much trouble.

    You can also make a right triangle any size you like out of plywood or other reasonably flat, stable material. You can put a lip on the short leg and you'd butt that against the factory or ripped edge you wanted to make a square mark in relation to. The center of the triangle can be cut out to reduce weight if desired, or the long edge can be scooped out with a curved cut. Really there just needs to be enough material behind the edges to keep it stiff enough for use.
    Last edited by Loren Woirhaye; 05-08-2014 at 2:02 PM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,750
    Hi Greg, I didn't mean to build one out of metal, I meant out of wood. Plywood, 3 pieces of stock glued together, etc. It my seem too crude to be accurate, but it's really not. As long as the final dimensions of the sides are 3-4-5, exactly, you will have a perfect 90 deg angle. Or you could use A^2 + B^2 = C^2 for a more generalized formula. I suppose you could use a mill to cut out a small one, but a TS cutoff sled or RAS works well. Really big ones can be made by gluing together 3 pieces of straight stock, with any level of sophistication you desire to reinforce the joints.

    John

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •