Raised vegetable garden beds

[Don Williams Michigan]

I will be installing a couple of raised garden beds in a few days. They are going to be constructed of white cedar.

My question is do I need to seal the cedar with anything? Because these will be vegetable beds, I am concerned with anything remotely toxic.

I thought about boiled linseed oil but that might make it more attractive to pests?

Your suggestions are appreciated!

[David Weaver]

I wouldn't seal them - they'll be in constant contact with moisture, and I'm not aware of much of anything non-toxic that really makes wood better off sealed than not sealed. They might even last better without being sealed - i've heard more than one old timer talk about untreated wood faring better (in any way other than appearance, I guess) when it's untreated.

[Prashun Patel]

I haven't and wouldn't put anything on them. Sealing is useless against the soil, and possibly harmful or prone to absorption by your plants.
Even untreated, the timbers will last at least several years.

[Erik Loza]

I constructed our raised beds out of PT lumber, which I sprayed with rubberized tree seal. We have not died yet. That being said, I agree: Unless you live in a really wet climate, even untreated lumber will last a while. And hey, pine or fir 2X12's are relatively inexpensive, anyhow.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Mike Ontko]

Cedar, Redwood, and Cypress all have natural anti-rot and anti-insect properties. You might also consider making your bed borders using stone or cement block, or even composite materials. It all depends on how long you expect to leave your beds in place and what function and look you're trying to achieve. Even the best quality natural wood products will have to be replaced eventually. I believe that 5-10 years is all you can expect from cedar that's in constant contact with soil and moisture.

[Wade Lippman]

Just be sure you put it in the right place.
I put one in last year that had great light in April, only to find in July that trees blocked much of the light.
My wife finally let me move it today to the right place. It is more work to move it than to do it originally.

I always make fun of guys who have to sneak tools past their wives, but I guess I now know how it feels.

[Michael Mahan]

they have a semi hard black plastic product that looks like a waffle pattern & a non-woven cloth covering (about 1/2" thick comes in rolls ) that is used between foundations & the gravel backfill on large buildings
It's meant to keep the wet soil from bleeding water into the concrete & allows it to drain away

back fill gravel then this product then the concrete ,
I know that when used in above ground planting beds as a liner it makes even untreated lumber last many years as it allows the wood to stay much dryer than the inside surrounding soils . it's fairly cheap & I've seen it now for sale at the Borgs in the cement sections
on buildings it is applied after the concrete forums are removed & placed on the concrete with the cloth facing out ,they then back fill with gravel
works much like a french drain does allowing the water to drain down & away the the wall .

[Don Williams Michigan]

Thank you to everyone for your thoughts and ideas. I truly appreciate it.

[Curt Harms]

Have you considered black locust? I don't know if you could find black locust boards in large enough sizes but that'd be a non-toxic alternative. Black locust is one of the go-to fence post woods - reputed to outlast the hole :-)

[Justin Ludwig]

Have you considered black locust? I don't know if you could find black locust boards in large enough sizes but that'd be a non-toxic alternative. Black locust is one of the go-to fence post woods - reputed to outlast the hole :-)

You can go one step further and use Bois d' Arc (hedge apple, horse apple, osage orange, Maclura Pomifera). You'd have to have it milled to your specifications. I don't know where it could be purchased. It will last into your children's golden years.

It the sun and with moisture it turns a deep deep chocolate brown. When first cut, it's about as orange as orange gets. I use it to make my long bows and walking sticks.

[Mark Patoka]

I wouldn't bother treating the insides as they'll slowly deteriorate anyway with constant dirt/moisture contact. I have 7 raised beds made using cypress, the oldest are 4 or 5 years old now. I have had to replace a couple of the boards due to bugs and moisture rot but it's pretty easy to take one off and replace it. I use cypress because it's very low cost for me and we don't use PT because our gardens are organic and don't want any of the chemical leaching.

[Jim Matthews]

If you're really worried about damage due to moisture, use a pond liner.

You could then treat the outside, as you like for cosmetic appeal.
I would perforate the bottom of the liner, to allow drainage.

It would be a snap to layout and attach with staples.

[Steve Peterson]

You can go one step further and use Bois d' Arc (hedge apple, horse apple, osage orange, Maclura Pomifera). You'd have to have it milled to your specifications. I don't know where it could be purchased. It will last into your children's golden years.

It the sun and with moisture it turns a deep deep chocolate brown. When first cut, it's about as orange as orange gets. I use it to make my long bows and walking sticks.

That sounds more expensive than building it out of rebar and concrete, which should also last forever. Mix in a brown tint to make it look nice. Oops, this is a woodworking forum and I just suggested a non-wood alternative. Use old bard wood for the outside of the forms and it should pick up the wood texture.

Steve

[Justin Ludwig]

That sounds more expensive than building it out of rebar and concrete, which should also last forever. Mix in a brown tint to make it look nice. Oops, this is a woodworking forum and I just suggested a non-wood alternative. Use old bard wood for the outside of the forms and it should pick up the wood texture.

Steve

My post was meant to be sarcastic. I don't know of any uses for hedge apple any more, other than bows.

To the OP: use KISS methodology. Pine or cedar. Replace every 5+ years as needed.

[Brian Deakin]

For ideas on style and construction please see link below

http://www.harrodhorticultural.com/r...ing-tcid2.html

I would suggest maximium width of 4ft so you can reach the plants with out treading on the bed

regards Brian