What are your experiences with the Sorby Hollowmaster tool? How long do the blades last in that thing? I don't want to have to keep buying blades so I'm a little reluctant to get that type of tool. Easy to sharpen?
[OP]
Member
What are your experiences with the Sorby Hollowmaster tool? How long do the blades last in that thing? I don't want to have to keep buying blades so I'm a little reluctant to get that type of tool. Easy to sharpen?
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pm sent.......
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The Hollow master uses HSS cutters that you sharpen with a diamond card hone they'll last for a really long time. The long thin cutter is for hollowing and if you buy one try putting the cutter on the other side so it's sticks out the top side,someone told me or I read that the tool cuts better and with less torque if you do this.
Comments and Constructive Criticism Welcome
Haste in every craft or business brings failures. Herodotus,450 B.C.
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I have the straight one and honestly, it was the first hollowing tool I ever bought/used. I constantly fought it and thought that I just wasn't us for hand hollowing. Then I started looking online for different hollowing tools and noticed that a slew of them all looked alike. That, to me, says that the Jordon and Bosch style hollowing bars must be a good design. They are different to the Sorby in the sense that they have fixed bits and are completely round and are generally smaller diameter. I have finally figured out HOW to use the Sorby Hollowmaster, but don't use it anymore since buying the Trent Bosch 1/2" set and an el cheapo Ben Best set for the under 5" stuff. One of my biggest complaints of the Sorby Hollowmaster is the shear thickness of the bar and at the end of the bar. I like smaller holes in my HFs and it is too big to fit though and work through a hole smaller than 1".
All are HSS cutters and easy to sharpen. I don't remove the cutters from the bars and just sharpen them on the tool rest, with a burr touch up with a diamond stone.
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No, it's not thin enough yet.
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[OP]
Member
Thanks for your input, Scott. So, you're pretty pleased with the Trent Bosch 1/2" set? Do you have the carbide tip conversion?Originally Posted by Scott Hackler
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The first hollowing tools I bought were the straight and curved hollowmaster. I was doing undercut bowls and they worked fine. Like Scott, I found the head too large when I tried doing smaller openings. I used the straight one as a scraper until I bought better scrapers...
Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).
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I have the Sorby Hollowmaster with the adjustable head where you can swivel the bit to the angle you want. It has the flat bar that is nice for keeping steady on the tool rest. It was my first foray into hollowing...........the thing will beat you up, if you don't have everything just right. Of course with many hollow forms under my belt now, I understand better how to use it, and would do better than at the beginning.
I also have the Ellsworth tools which I made long heavy handles for..........found out from watching him at an all day demo and talking with him that the tip that goes out the side of the tool [which the Sorby does for undercuts and some side hollowing] makes the tool really grabby........as such the need for control of the tool to keep from rolling [hence the flat bar on the Sorby and the long heavy handles on the Ellsworth tools]
I found out that most hand hollowing is a bit tedious and controlling the cut deep in a vessel is harder as you go deeper.......the tendency to grab and catch is magnified as you go deeper. That is why I got the Monster articulated Hollowing rig..........a captive system allows for mechanical control of the process with the turner simply guiding the tool for the cuts, not controlling the whole thing against centrifugal force created by the lathe.......
If you can afford to do so, you will never regret a captive system or an articulated [captive] system..........it will make the process so, so much easier!
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I really like Trent's bars (although there isn't much difference between his and a few others). I thought the fact that the cutters are glued in would be an issue, but so far so good. He said to heat them up with a torch to remove/replace them.
I don't have the carbide conversion, but have looked at one at SWAT. I would like to have it because my Carter Hollow Roller has a Hunter bit and I really like how it cuts, but they are a bit pricey and I just haven't spent the money for the Bosch bars.
I use the Bosch bars for hand hollowing and in my Gizmo articulated hollowing rig. Works very well. Sharpening (or refreshing the bur on the bit) is a 2 second deal with the diamond hone. An added plus is that I really like the handle that Trent has with his kits.
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No, it's not thin enough yet.
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Member
My experience with the Hollowmaster mimics Scott's. It was my first hollowing tool and found it hard to master. I finally learned how to use it from a couple of YouTube postings. My next tool was a termite/ring tool; it too was hard to master as well as sharpen because I didn't buy the fancy sharpening jig. I ended up purchasing a Monster captured bar rig. Like Scott, I like a smaller HF opening so I finally I bought the 1/2" set of HF tools from Kelton for the Monster rig and shelved the 3/4" bars. As for the Hollowmaster, I still use it on occasion. The last time was when I wanted to undercut the rim of a bowl. As for the termite/ring tool...it's in a drawer and is never used.
[OP]
Member
The Termite is more for bowl hollowing, isn't it? The lack of curvature and the large size of the shank aren't any good for getting under the rim of a vase or hollow form, are they?
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