I came across the thread on centre of effort and I have come to think that there might be a lot less confusion about a tote's design if one looked at it from the other end-the guy holding on.
As to the plane mechanics- for each plane it would be easy to discover the force vector that is required to plane the wood, a combination of downward pressure to enter the blade into the wood and to assure proper registration of the sole on the wood and forward effort to cut and bend the shaving and overcome friction and inertia. The force could then be applied in a straight line much as in the pole handle of the Stanley #74 floor plane. Intuitively I would suspect this line to be close to the line of the blade. I also suspect the centre or point that this force meets the plane moves forward when one starts the cut and back as one tries to keep the sole behind the blade running true-particularly one is jointing.
However the best angle and shape of the tote have more to do with the mechanics of the user
For example-the size (circumference) of the tote governs the angle of the wrist joint. Test this by making a tight fist and watch your wrist cock back(dorsiflex).
- the wrist is most comfortable in a neutral position(I was taught that this is the position ones wrist assumes when holding a glass of beer) Perhaps those who get pain in the web space get it because their wrist is held too far back.
- the triceps muscle on the back of the upper arm is much more efficient when the elbow is at 90 degrees or more. when the elbow is acutely flexed it can exert only a small % of its strength.
- some planning is done with the arms and shoulders such as planning across a board to flatten it , or with the back and legs as when one joints or moulds a longer board thus the height of the work becomes important as to which muscles are required. If one is using arm muscles the forearm should be horizontal for greater triceps strength and the tote should allow this. If one is using back and legs the angle may be different.
- the texture of the tote is important, If its shiny and slippery and one has to grip harder this changes forearm tension and hence wrist angle
- and of course the height of the board certainly plays into many of the above factors
I'm sure there are lots of other biomechanical factors, but something to think about eh