Jointer knife Set Up

[George Bokros]

My jointer has started to taper stock edge to edge so I guess the knives have slipped. I have looked at several jigs to set up the knives.

1.) Jointer Pal ~$50
2.) MLCS 9397 Jointer set Up Jig ~$70
3.) One Way Multi Gauge ~ $95

Jointer Pal uses rare earth magnets to hold the blades in position.
MLCS uses magnets but allows for micro adjustments
One Way Multi Gauge utilizes a dial indicator to measure blade height in relation to the out feed table.

What do you use / recommend.

I am leaning to the One Way but cost seems steep but is definitely more accurate.

Thanks for your input.

George

[Bob Vaughan]

The Oneway gauge is the only one of the three that will allow you know exactly where things are. Making your own indicator holding block and using off-the-shelf dial indicators is cheaper. The tip is the key. Regular dial indicators come with a small point. Even a harbor Freight dial indicator and mag base will work, just don't turn on the magnet and be careful about tightening the inexpensive post clamps.

[Rich Riddle]

Before purchasing a Shelix head, I used the MLCS 9397 Jointer set Up Jig and experienced nothing but good things with it. Good luck with your decision.

[Dick Mahany]

I used to use the magnet on glass method for setting my knives. Now I use the Oneway multi gage and won't part with it. Solid, repeatable, excellent stable mass, and it has a number of other uses. I don't think one can go wrong with that set up.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I modified my magnet base to hold my dial indicator in vertically, like to One Way Gauge, only a lot cheaper. Materials used included metric bolt to match magnetic base hole, scrap of 3/4 stock, bolt and nut from bolt boxes. As I already owned magnetic base, dial indicator, scrap and bolt from bolt box, only cost was the metric bolt.

[Jim Andrew]

The old Powermatics used to use a gauge that sat on the outfeed table, and the end sat on the knife. There was a gauge that you just centered on a mark and the blade was set. The head had set screws to adjust the height, you just put an allen wrench in the set screw and adjusted the height of the blade, then tightened it. Move to the next blade. You could replace your blades in about 5 minutes.

[Mel Fulks]

Most likely the knives have dulled ,which makes the out feed table high . Less than two thousandths will cause that taper.

[Ed Edwards]

George,
Before I'd send the $$ to MLCS I'd check the review on Amazon

In my opinon there's nothing like a dail indicator

Ed

[Eric Shapin]

Check this video for a comparison of the 3 options that you list http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/jointer-setup/ . I agree with the conclusion, based on my own experience, that the Oneway is superior, hands-down.

FWIW - The tapering may not be indicative of any setup problem; I.e., the jointer's function is to take a bent, warped, and/or twisted board and establish a plane on one face and one edge. Given the original condition of the board, that plane may wind up anywhere, and not necessarily parallel to the opposite face/edge. Subsequent operations on the planer and jointer will create the parallel faces and edges.

[George Bokros]

Thanks for all the input. I am certain that it is not an issue with the stock. The stock was previously planed but had a slight banana from end to end so I doubt it would end up tapering from edge to edge,

I saw the woodwhisperer video last evening and agree with every one and the video that a dial indicator is the best alternative.

As for the knives dulling that is a possibilty. I am not sure if this model (Delta) has reversible knives I will see when I take them out.

New question on this issue.......

Woodwhisperer took out the springs under the knives in the video, is that something you would recommend? It makes sense to me since the adjustment screws raise the knives.

George

Update.......Figured out that the jointer knives are not two sided. I am planning to get the carbide tipped from Infinity tool and the One Way Multi Tool.

[Mel Fulks]

Some like the springs,I don't since I use magnets. I know it doesn't take much dulling to change height relationship to
table because I have used calibrated table adjustment wheel to do that for slightly hollow joints. What you are getting can happen with newly sharpened knives if a small nick from grit is hit right off.

[glenn bradley]

Before I gave up on knives I used the magnets on glass method. Worked great, quick and reliable.

jointer-glass-magnet.JPG

[Tom M King]

I have all sorts of dial indicators and gizmos for measuring and setting blades. For a jointer, I use a small, straight strip of hard wood (Boxwood for me that's about 1/4 by 1/2") held down on the outfeed table, and set the blades by feel. I can do it much faster like this than can be done with a gauge. Tighten the end bolts just tight enough to let you slide the blade up and down with fingers. Rotate the head back and forth and feel for top dead center brushing the wood, but not moving it. It takes a light touch, but you can feel tolerances like this as small as you can read with a gauge. Tighten the end bolts when both ends are right, and then tighten the others.

So far, I've won every bet on being able to do it as accurately, and at least as fast like this. I've thrown away the adjuster screws were in my jointer heads.

I've started sharpening blades more frequently since I developed a good feel for this method. The last time I took the blades out of the 6" jointer, sharpened them with paper on a surface plate with the Veritas sharpening jig, and reinstalled the blades, took a bit less than 15 minutes.

This works a lot faster than you might think: http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...072,43078&ap=1 You can't beat their return policy if you don't like it, but I don't know why anyone wouldn't.

[Myk Rian]

A 12" steel rule. I set all the knives to move it 1/8", then adjust the out-feed table.

[George Bokros]

Not having luck finding carbide tipped knives for my Delta 037-195 jointer. The knives are 6 1/16 x 5/8 x 3/32. Closest I find are 6 1/16 x 5/8 x 1/8. It would seem 1/32 shouldn't be an issue but I am a newbee at this so I am thinking the 1/8 thick would NOT work.

Anyone have first hand knowledge of this?

Thanks

George