When I started out I used this as a starting point (I have the same tube). It was fabulous as a starting point, but not one of my settings match this table now..
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/Manuals/SpeedsFeeds_RL.pdf
When I started out I used this as a starting point (I have the same tube). It was fabulous as a starting point, but not one of my settings match this table now..
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/Manuals/SpeedsFeeds_RL.pdf
Last edited by Travis Wizniuk; 03-21-2014 at 3:13 PM.
Shawn,
Perhaps this will help you as well. My apologies for not posting this sooner, but I had trouble locating it.
This is a link to a forum thread where folks were discussing their preferred methods for testing materials for the correct laser settings on their machines. You should find a number of ideas in this and hopefully it will help you after you have tried the "starting points" that you were looking for.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ght=test+strip
For what it is worth, I am not yet a laser owner but have been digging through the forum a bunch trying to learn as much as I can before I commit to owning one. And during that time one thing I was impressed by was the HUGE variance in settings for a given material between seemingly identical machines, let along across vendors or tube types or power. I realized that the numbers the vendors provided as "starting points" for materials, while not exactly specious, were part of a big range of possibilities. Perhaps if you combine the numbers that most closely fit your machine and power and materials with the testing patterns described in that link you can come to your own desired settings without too much fuss. And do yourself a favor, once you do have some good settings dialed in for things keep track of them AND how they change over time. It can give you some good clues as to what is going on in your machine if there are problems with the effectiveness of its cutting or engraving.
Good luck! Hope this is an excellent venture for you!
Dave
900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.
Your conclusion is faulty, unfortunately. The fact that every manufacturer includes such a list is based upon the need for new owners (such as yourself) to have some sense of where to start. You have 10 different parameters you can vary in fine increments each, so those cut sheets give new owners a warm and fuzzy feeling that they can start working right out of the box. As so many others above have said, those values are often not even close to what it actually takes. Guys like us who have been working with machiens for a while wish those cut sheets would disappear, but that's not going to happen because new owners beg for the security of knowing they exist (even if it's a false sense of security).
I think you've missed the point of what we're all saying entirely. I keep a database of those materials because my machine works well with those numbers (garnered through many many hours of testing). They will not work well on another machine. In fact, now that I have upgraded from a 60W ULS to an 80W Trotec, the database will have to be recalibrated for every material on it. The values don't vary from day to day, and if you keep your machine properly maintenanced, items like smoke-covered lenses don't happen or cause issues.
There are some similarities to this machine and CNC, but they are not identical by any stretch of the word... you've been forewarned, so ignore said sage advice at your own risk.
Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )
Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
Delta 18-900L 18" drill press
Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5
I think unfortunately the OP has already made his mind up.. I used to be a member of a woodturners forum some years back. We had a new guy come on the forum asking all kinds of questions. At one point he told everyone how he prefered his tools to be dull so that he could "get a better feel" for the wood. Many of the seasoned and expert members tried in vain to explain to him the dangers of using dull tools not to mention the shear frustration... After about 6 months of turning he figured out how to actually sharpen his tools correctly. OMG.. Was he ever surprised at the difference it made... Eventually he became a good member of the forum.. He had to eat a bit of crow though for a little while, but he was big about it and realized if your going to ask questions maybe you should listen to the answers.... I have read many a post here from some of the more seasoned engravers and I have to admit some of them I wasn't entirely sure about myself.. But I realized these people had a whole lot more experience than I did so maybe I should keep an open mind about what they had to say... Now after 2 + years of using a laser engraver weekly (sometimes daily).. I realized that I might know less now than when I started... You will never stop learning... Granted a whole lot less materials go into the trash nowdays. Even after 2 + years I visit the forum on a daily basis just to learn...
Full Spectrum Laser 5th Gen, 45 Watt with Gold Catalyst tube
Rotary Attachment
Corel Draw X5
Complete wood shop.
Even between two machines fitted with everything the same there is a HUGE variance between them and their ability. Like Dan I keep a set of figures for the machines I have and between two machines purchased at the same time with same batch tubes they still vary enough to stop one machines figures working on the other.
cheers
Dave
You did what !
Sounds like you made your mind up about me too, eh?
Uh oh, this doesn't sound like it's going to answer the question posted. Story time I guess.
I'm still awake, honestly I am.
Ooh, if I really apply myself...
Oh noz! I is in trouble for sure!
Blah blah blah. OK, whatever. People, you do realize these forums are made to look pretty bad when you pester new users about asking a detailed question looking for some simple advise, don't you? It really decreases credibility of the forum and yourself, especially when you contradict your own statements all in one post. If these machines were so damned sensitive keeping a database of materials for yourself for your own machine would be useless if the variables changed so frequently from machine to machine on a day to day basis that it would render your own database of materials speed power frequency useless. So why on Earth would you do it then? Simple answer? You wouldn't. Guarded trade secret, I get it. Chance to try to ridicule the new guy. Sorry, didn't work. Sorry some guy above who I won't waste my time going back to get his name thinks my logic is "faulty." Pardon me for having an opinion which differentiates from your own.
Glen Monaghan, Travis Wizniuk, Bill George and David Somers, thank you for pointing me towards a lot of valuable information ad exactly what I was looking for. David, thank you also for wishing me luck in the business. It means a lot to have someone you don't know offer a sentiment such as that. You would think by some of these other guys responses that if I used the wrong settings on a particular material that I would tear the hole in the fabric of time and the Universe would implode.
All I was looking for were some starting points. I got what I wanted to out of the post, plus some smack talk, so ultimately I got what I came here for. Sorry to be a one time shopper but I just don't have time in my life to waste repeating myself to the inept. C ya. Have fun trying to tear me apart now.
Don't bother banning me, I won't be back. Nice forum guys, very helpful. , you won't be so grumpy.
Good bye.
Last edited by Mike Null; 03-22-2014 at 6:30 AM.